I've done the same with Luna-tic, plenty of wobble but I've allowed plenty of wheel clearance and to be fair you don't notice when it's bolting around. Ellis's videos have helped me tremendous with building. Hats off to the lad.
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I've done the same with Luna-tic, plenty of wobble but I've allowed plenty of wheel clearance and to be fair you don't notice when it's bolting around. Ellis's videos have helped me tremendous with building. Hats off to the lad.
Top one looks like Firestorm from back in the day!
Well it was a good job I bought a spare 'sheet' of HPDE for Wolf-E as I made a mess of half of the first one :angry:.
What do people recommend as the method to cutting 20mm thick HPDE?
Jigsaw. You need a woodcutting blade, set it fairly slow and take your time. Make sure you always cut on the waste side of the line. Also if you want to be a bit more careful, you can use a regular handsaw or a coping saw for rounded edges, although obviously it takes longer. Might want to get yourself a hand plane to straighten up those edges afterwards too.
I got a green one from Argos (not sure of the brand) which worked fine for me. It was like £20 I think.
I just ordered a new one now I just need to solve my other issue, drilling a hole that doesn't go at an angle.
I need a drill press pretty bad. I just need somewhere to put one. :P
same here
So after another session of trying to cut the HPDE I decided to reassess the design of the back of the robot as there has been issues. Originally the back of the frame indented slightly to hold the armour were as the front had the armour resting on it so I adjusted the back, removing the indent and made it easier to cut.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/2c8ba240...f23o1_1280.png
That's pretty much a perfect edge.
Edge? not sure what you mean.
*wedge
Oh I see, well hopefully it will be.
What is your wedge tip made of? I'm struggling to get a lasting sharp wedge with HDPE so will need to add a metal end when I know how much weight I have to play with.
A small achievement with the bodywork, one motor mounted.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/4276c082...f23o2_1280.jpg
https://68.media.tumblr.com/edc50175...f23o3_1280.jpg
Ooh I'm getting excited - can't wait to see how this turns out. :D
You're not the only one
Started using the second HPDE sheet (Hopefully not waste all of it this time)
I have taken a new approach to making the side sections of the frame, with hole placement and shape. Using some spare polycarb to make the template.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/21c33697...nf23o1_540.jpg
On another note I got two Botbits 85A V2 from Ranglebox the other week, couple of 50A maxi blade fuses, all I need is the battery, I am looking at a 4s lipo like this: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...lipo-pack.html. But is it overkill for 12volt motors? I know that, a cost of a shorter life, motors can be over volted by a small amount.
Weapons:
Now there was a comment about Wolf-E getting a later upgrade, a weapon, err... might need a whole redesign just to fit one (which I'm working on) question is... spinner, lifter or axe? I will say my weapon of choice was not included (pneumatic flipper). So basically I'm left with weapons that are run by motors. But thats a future problem.
To be honest, I highly doubt the extra 2.8v will make a huge difference to your motor life. I run a 5s 60C lipo with about twice the mAh, with four 18v motors and a brushless for the lifter. Since you're only running two motors and no weapon, I think that battery should be fine.
You say you're using polycarb for a template, but why not just print or draw it onto a piece of paper and (temporarily) glue it onto the HDPE? I'd think it'd be cheaper and easier to cut through. I know you're not cutting the poly itself, but I expect you'll rough the edges up if you're cutting along them.
Ahh fair enough then.
Getting robot building withdrawal, haven't done any robot related activity since the 27th due to staying with my Boyfriend for a week.
But I can report that the side sections of Wolf-E's frame have been cut and drilled, just awaiting some smoothing and sanding to neaten the cuts.
Back from my break and nearly finished Wolf-E's main frame.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/16df2796...f23o2_1280.jpg
starting to take shape now.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/fbf29b88...f23o1_1280.jpg
Well things could have gone better, I used up most of the second sheet of HPDE and still no nearer to a finished robot. :evil:
might have to rethink this.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/5863c7de...f23o1_1280.png
What went wrong?
That's a real shame - could you not get away with shaving little bits off to get things to fit? That's mostly what I did, though I don't have a wedgebot.
not really
So unless someone knows of somewhere I could have got the HPDE cut and drilled for me I'm just going to give HPDE the elbow and maybe look into Hardox as I can get it water cut by K-cut. I would need to use hardox for the wedge plates anyway so might might look at using it on other parts of the robot.
For the most point the design of Wolf-E is the same, but with a better bolting approach added.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/47b79aca...f23o1_1280.png
I don't suppose anyone has used or is using a turnigy accucel 6 Balanced charger and can recommend a suitable power supply. I'm currently using drill battery packs to power mine and would like a more streamlined power solution.
XBox360/720/one power supply's are usually pretty good, require a little bit of modifying to remove the connector and enable but they're typically around £15 and will do +12V at 18A.
We use one of these - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-24V.../291087849273?
The 12V 100W version for £7.99 is fine for a single Accucel 6. We actually have a 400W unit that drives 4 of the new 80W Accucels so we can fast charge all out batteries at an event.
Be aware, XBox PSU's output 12V and 5V Supplies.
Did some wiring, added connecters, detached the red servo wire from one of the ESCs.
https://68.media.tumblr.com/e9cb5df4...f23o1_1280.jpg