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Hi I'm making my first featherweight robot called CALEI-JAC. Here is the rough basic drawings to give an idea of what it'll look like.
Power: 2 x 12v drill motors on 18.4v lipos
100mm blue wheels with rubber tuyres attached for extra grip
electric lifter power - 18.v lipo bat powering a drill motor
base plate 3mm aluminium
sides 20-25mm hdpe
top 3mm
http://www.airsofters.co.uk/forums/p...pictureid=1141
and
http://www.airsofters.co.uk/forums/p...pictureid=1142
500x500x3mm aluminium base. 20mm hdpe motor mounts bolted down using m6 countersunk bolts with nylon nuts.
Looking good mate. It would be nice to see a lifter as against to a flipper in the arena! Good luck. :)
Looking good, like the look of the front of the lifter arm (scoop). Check my message about boosting lift speed in the lifter thread!
500 x 500 is quite large for a FW.
Bitza was 450 x 320 and when we went to the UK champs we found we dwarfed most of the other bots! (besides Tron2/Seraph of course)
This is fine, but you'll find you'll suffer from the scaling factor and your robot will become very heavy very quickly.
Bigger base means more armour, more supports, more cabling etc.....
Thanks ill have a look at that thread. I wanted the wheels to be protected so I found that 500mm wide is just about right but ill have a look at the length. Whats the biggest feather about just now?
Seraph and Tron2.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkNhiKdkhno
Seraph is the thing with the massive wheels! And Bitza is opposite the camera with the St. Georges Flag on the scoop.
Tron2 is much like Seraph.
Considering they all weigh 13.6kg it's surprising what you can fit in! Check out 540, Bonx and Satanix for really compact machines.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvPACmkn41c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIIs_AUh7uQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCLlZCZ3V6M
Obviously what size you make your robot is up to you, but we really struggled to get Bitza in weight come the end of the build.
Yeah I took heed of what you are all saying. The bots size is now 500mm (wide) x 350mm (length). Also I have scrapped the dewalt xrp drill. FAR TOO HEAVY!!!!!! down to regular 9.6v drill motor for the lifter, which will be over volted.
Thanks for the links to the videos.....some cracking looking bots there.
photo of the base cut down, 500mm wide x 340mm long
http://www.airsofters.co.uk/forums/p...pictureid=1149
my robo challenge motors and wheels came today.....so work begins...!
http://forums.airsofters.co.uk/pictu...pictureid=1158
http://forums.airsofters.co.uk/pictu...pictureid=1159
http://forums.airsofters.co.uk/pictu...pictureid=1157
I soldered 14 awg wire to the motors with some hot glue to support the soldered joint. Fitted the classic blue wheels, I still have to screw an old rubber bike tyre to the blue wheels (100mm blue wheels) for extra grip. 20mm hdpe provide the mounts. Two rollers for the back of the bot, to help slide around.
Looks very neat!
Good idea on the glue front, the tabs on those drill motors snap off very easily, and given the emmense forces your robot will be subject it would be likely for them to break
Also those B&Q drills are terrible! Bought a couple for old Bitza and they started breaking just from working the gearboxes in. All I was doing was holding the trigger down!
Long story short they lasted ONE event.
The Argos drills are much better, but still not great.
I got the drills from robo challenge not sure what type of drills they are. After soldering the new wires on I thought they were weak so hunners off glue should hopefully do the trick.
Looking good
Thanks guys.
I guess they're not the B&Q drills then.
looking good so far 8)
thanks
I've been plodding away with my lifter design.See below
http://forums.airsofters.co.uk/pictu...pictureid=1166
Still needs cut to length. I will do this when the lifter motor is fitted along with the lifter arm.
http://forums.airsofters.co.uk/pictu...pictureid=1165
I used a 25mm mild steel tube, with a 20mm inside diameter. A 20mm m12 thread stud (about 25mm long) welded to the tube. And at the oposite end I've welded a similar threaded stud for m12.
http://forums.airsofters.co.uk/pictu...pictureid=1164
looks brilliant, well done!!!
that looks awesome! did you use a ballscrew or car jack in the end?
neither. Its just m12 rod, with a 25mm mild steel tube (21mm inside diameter) with a 20mm with m12 threaded stud welded inside the tube at both ends then the eye swivel at the end which just got threaded onto a peice of m12 rod. The m12 rod slides up and down inside the metal tube.
cool, i've considered doing similar for a crusher using my other 9.6v drill motor (snapped shaft one). any chance you could make me one of those tube things? i'd turn myself some sort of thing nut i'm stuck without access to a lathe for like 8 weeks :(
no problems drop me a pm with details.
I have a spare one already made.
http://forums.airsofters.co.uk/pictu...pictureid=1173
Rubber pad glued on top for rubbing/gripping. Two air holes in the tube, also alows oil drops for threaded rod.
This is the lifting tube i've made for Jonny, however I have made one the same as this for my feather. The threaded rod will be connected to the drill motor, and the other side bolted to a lifting arm.
nice work :)
btw: ive just bourght some b and q drills and they look almost identical to yours
interesting? you got a pic of them?
i bought a £10 argos drill today for my lifter motor, 12v it looks different from my drive motors purchased from robochallenge
yeah, the argos ones do look differeant, i use them for drive in my featherweight
The Argos one's are much better quality.
Molded white casing round the gearbox held in place with four screws.
The B&Q drills have a black and beige casing (I think) around the gearbox and are held on with 3 screws.
The B&Q drills damaged themselves just from breaking the gearbox in and lasted no more than 1.5 events.
ha, typical!
Well the b&Q drill motors sound the like the same ones I bought, although I got mine from robo challenege.
You should have seen the last half of the 2nd event!
Bitza dragged itself in making the most god awful noise! Then, unable to get away quickly anymore, got obliterated by LH.........
Maybe RoboChallange get their drill motors from the same supplier as the B&Q drills, I dunno.
God knows. Just need to try them out and find out.lol
got my hdpe in today! so i've been plodding away.
The out side is 200mm high, although looks higher in the pics. ( i need the hight for my lifter design). Started work on the lifter motor mounts, and I have two dividers between the wheels and sides, lipos will fit in these either side.
http://forums.airsofters.co.uk/pictu...pictureid=1175
http://forums.airsofters.co.uk/pictu...pictureid=1174
2 Li-Po's?
thats what i'm think or maybe nicads etc. one for weapon and one for drive.
Im pretty new to the world of Li-Po so maybe someone else would be better equipped to comment here but 1 Li-Po should be more than enough.
The C rating is the rate of discharge as a division of time. So a 20c pack should theoretically be capable of total discharge in 3mins, since a twentieth of 60mins is 3mins.
3mins is the length of a round, so this works out quite well.
Then to calculate the theoretical constant current your pack can produce, you times the C rating by the Ah rating. So a 20C pack with 3000mah can give a constant current of 60amps.
Depending on the quality of the pack this can vary, and burst ratings can be much higher and sustained for varying amounts of time.
Your drill motors shouldn't be drawing so much current that you'll exceed what a Li-Po can put out, and what with all the start/stop of a fight a 2500mah pack will easily (should...) last the bout.
Decent Ni-Cad cells should be able to supply about 30amps continuous.
looks like a good design :)
im finding it hard to get a spot for my batteries were they dont move :)
thanks. It was hoinh to be covered, but i thought if its flat i can fix hdpe to it easier.
i was going to fit two of these batterys into it?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/18-5v-2200MAH-...item231019e093
Check this out for loads of info on moving to Lithium. Also look in the RioBotz tutorial.
viewtopic.php?f=111&t=4091
General rule seems to be, you pay for what you get! And what with Li-Po being so volatile (and the fact that your putting it in a COMBAT robot) I wouldn't scrimp.
Anyone got that great vid that Hard Time found of the Li-Po exploding?