Currently running 4 Argos motors on 12v nimh, via blue marine escs. Thinking of going to 4 24v drill motors at 30v via a sabretooth 50hv. What do people think?!
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Currently running 4 Argos motors on 12v nimh, via blue marine escs. Thinking of going to 4 24v drill motors at 30v via a sabretooth 50hv. What do people think?!
why not just overvolt your argos ones to 18v, that will give you some great speed on the right wheels for less cash
30 is better than 18 :proud:
The higher voltage you're using also affects the total weight as you have to have more cells = more weight on the batteries alone which in turn
gives you less to play with for armor / active weapon etc, also a bigger speedo weighs more. Not by much bit it still counts.
12v drills on 18v has been used succesfully and could be a good start, wont have to buy more drills or a larger ESC
I think you're mad. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjr1
24v hammer drill motors will be fragile & force the width out to 30cm minimum. The speed in any case could be well beyond controllable.
Not necessarily. Overvolting a 12v motor to 18v is a 50% increase, overvolting a 24v motor to 30v is only a 25% increase. When you double the voltage on a motor you get 4 times the power out of it. So it's a % increase that you're after. This is why motors burn out, they produce more power than they can handle, draw too much current, overheat and burn out.Quote:
30 is better than 18
This makes the assumption that the two motors are of the same power output to start with.
The 'bot is 50cm wide already! Why would they be fragile?Quote:
Originally Posted by psychostorm
Bowing forces due to the length of the overall mechanism make it snap at the plastic gearbox tabs.
Or at least that's what happened when I tried
Much easier to mount smaller drills too
Got a 24v drill today! A lovely looking motor and gearbox (looks like it's the next grade up from the Argos motors) but doesn't look like it's going to work sadly.
Soooooooooo..........
How much does it generally cost to make a drum/spinner? The actual spinner part? And what ratio do people run?
that's like asking what the price of a new car is without specifying what car or what you need from it. It also depends what tooling you have available to you? If you have access to a lathe or a mill then you will be able to do most if not all of the construction yourself. Otherwise you will need to outsource it. Kenny is usually the go to guy for machining parts.
I have built spinner setups for less than 100 quid in the past but it all depends on what you're after.
20cm long by 15cm diameter drum or an axle with 4 or so blades at 15cm diameters. Found a half decent motor (eBay 180644333591). Am thinking of using a belt and pulley system so that it can slip when it hits something?
That is a brushless motor so might not be what you're looking for
Thought brushless was the way to go for a spinner motor?
Just to elaborate on what Gary said, my first proper drum was outsourced and cost £150. That was with all the material provided and with free machining so if you were to pay for machining and didn't supply the material it would cost a lot more. By comparison, my most recent drum cost perhaps £10, but that was achievable mostly due to the goodwill of others supplying pieces, workshop time and machine work. So the cost of making a drum spinning element is really like the age-old question of how long is a piece of string?
As for ratios, again it depends on what motor you use, what your desired output speed is and so on but for reference, Drumroll II running on a Speed 900 motor at 19.2V has a ratio of 2.2: 1 (a 44-tooth pulley on the drum and 20-tooth pulley on the motor).
When I used a brushless motor for a while, it was a ratio of 5:1 as the brushless had a higher rpm and needed a bit more torque when starting up. So it's all just a case of tailoring it to suit your individual needs or preferences.
EDIT: Brushless motors certainly make spinners a more lethal proposition but they are not the be-all-and-end-all of spinning methods. Brushed motors are a perfectly suitable alternative; for the past three years at the UK FW champs, a spinner has finished 3rd, and all those spinners used Speed 900s as weapon motors so they can do the job. It's more difficult to get a brushless spinner setup running reliably; Dave Moulds (360) went through several motors, controllers and money to get his disc running well. In the end though, the more important factors are the properties of your spinner itself (such as mass distribution, moment of inertia and, to a degree, cutter bite)
Ok, cool, thank you. How did you manage the kick back when it hits something? Some form of clutch?Quote:
Originally Posted by k_c_r
I wasn't sure if you meant for the spinner or in place of the drill motor you mentioned. Having a quick scan of that one shows that if you run at 19.2v you'll need to change the fan of the ESC. Also i've heard that people say that sometimes the ebay ESC's can overrate their current handling a bit.
that motor/esc combo is useless. It's an inrunner brushless motor, high rpm (6000 per volt) low torque. Not what you want in a brushless motor setup. You would need large gearing to use that which makes it pointless going light.
Get a speed 900, strap a relay to it, job done. Nice reliable system for your first spinner.
Not really. I use timing belts and pulleys so technically there is potential for slippage in there but I doubt that very rarely happens. If you want to rely on belt slippage as a clutch, V-belts are the best option.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjr1
No I just let the poor motor take the abuse. Maybe not as great an idea with brushless motors, but Speed 900s are tough little jobbies that can take just about anything you throw at them, so once it's running and spinning, I very rarely turn the motor off in a battle, unless it is obvious that the drum is being stalled.
Ok cool. Two 150mm discs on some form of axle on a speed 900! Thinking that I'll keep the discs as close to each other as possible then a wedge on the back (or front). Du really need a esc or just a switch for a spinner? In theory, full range speed control seems a little pointless?
a 150mm disc will have little effect unless you go nuts with the weight on them. For a disc you really want to have a 250mm diameter or there abouts with as much of the weight at the outer diameter as possible. The reason being is the kinetic energy that it can store.
http://www.teamcosmos.com/ke/ke.shtml
o and a solid state relay on the speed 900 is preferable (at least for me anyway), I tried speed control on a disc with hornet, found a relay much better.
Just looking on technobots for some belts and pulleys now, anyone recommend anywhere else worth looking?
rs components if you got a depo beside you can be cheap. HPC gears stocks everything and can make custom parts but you will pay for it.
a few pictures of the latest creation!
That looks awsome!
I love it in the checkerplate.
That looks very nice :)
Looks really good! Bet it has some push.