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hi everyone
after whitwick i am rebuilding spike the avenger and probably naming it with 'ReAvenger' or 'Spike 2'
but, armor wise, how do we all think 3mm steel sides and 3mm poylcarb would do against spinners? or mabey 5mm if i can afford it
also, would 2 electronacize (you get the idea) 15A esc control 4 motors safely?
thanks
matt
what motors are you planning to use? if it's 4 12v drill motors you'll need more than 15amps each side
ye, 4 12v drill motors and 2 esc's
3mm polycarb against spinners? no, 15mm good. you could probably survive on 10mm though
really, 10mm polcarb? what about the 3mm steel all over?
it would get bent and most spinners would go through it quite easily if you want metal go 6mm hardox. i am no expert (so feel free to butt in guys!) but i have a good idea.
i highly doubt you'll manage 6mm hardox in the weight limit but it depends on your design. i'd go for 3.2mm hardox, titanium or go for some sort of plastic
mabey even 20mm hdpe?
that would be fine
what would we think about 20mm hdpe sides to take the main brunt of spinner attacks and 5mm for the top and bottom? or mabey 3mm steel for top and bottom?
3mm steel would do well against some spinners, with the exception of the insanely high-powered ones. Hardox would be the next step up from that; 3.2mm hardox is close in thickness but more expensive than the generic 4mm hardox used by many robots. 6mm thick hardox is OTT for featherweights, the 4mm stuff works fine. It formed the back end of Drumroll and never sustained any damage except for paint scratches.
If that costs too much, plastic is the next best alternative. Polycarb would work but you'd probably need 8mm-10mm minimum to defend against spinners and it starts to get expensive at those thicknesses.
HDPE is much cheaper and something in the 8mm-12mm range would be fine. It absorbs the energy from spinner impacts more effectively than polycarb and is easier to work with and repair/reform if damaged.
EDIT: In response to your most recent post, I reckon 20mm thick HDPE armour is overkill. You don't really need that much. For top and bottom panels, it is your choice between steel and HDPE but 5mm HDPE might be a bit flimsy; I use 8mm stuff when using HDPE for a base which is more rigid.
so if i went for 15mm for the sides just to be safe then 8mm for the and bottob i would have something which could stand up to most spinners?
I would say so. Although it's worth noting that you could have the thickest, strongest armour around but it wouldn't do you much good if the way it's mounted is weak (i.e. using duct tape instead of bolts, just as an extreme example) so make sure the construction is solid and it should have a good chance against spinners.
It should do.Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsdragons
Mind you, that's like saying will this chicken give me food poisoning - depends on how it is made.
The eye panels on Kaizer @ Leicester were 10mm HDPE. Alright, they fell off due a lack of screws but they survived it.
I'd beg to differ Jamie - Kaizer lost less panels when I taped them than when I had the screws in!
mabey if i rivit and screw them in?
Pop rivets tend to snap when hit with a large sudden force
Screws will work provided you aren't as bad a joiner as I am :lol:
why don't you tap and then weld most of it? leaving the top panel unwelded so the insides can be accessed.
i dont have the equipment to weld hdpe
This is a good question actually, I was wondering about armour. I've done the opposite and made our top and bottom panels 15mm HDPE to protect against axes. Hoping to avoid spinners......
matt, 10mm sides is plenty, 8mm base, 6mm or 8mm lid. make sure it all lines up nice on the corners/joines, no sharp/sticking out edges. i always bolted on hdpe with good old nuts and bolts which were countersunk.
i personally found that axes didnt really do a lot on me. all the plastic armors seem to take the shock well were as the metal ones soom to bend and buckle
That's good to know. My main concern at the moment is surviving the 7 odd foot drops after getting launched by a flipper!
honestly, if everything inside is well soldered you dont have much to worry about. my armor was only 3mm polycarb and that stood up to being flipped several times, hit by fairly powerful axes and going in the claws of the 120kg battleaxe. flippers are designed to shake stuff loose inside, not cause armor damage
little hitter made a nice gash in my hdpe 5mm lid, it was pretty deep too. that was a couple of years ago so it may be more powerful now?
i still found that axes didnt do alot
Tiny Hurts & Battleaxe are more hammer than axe in terms of damage. Little Hitter with it's spiked arm may puncture.Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsdragons
i was just thinking the same thing :)
i would be impessed though if it would punch through 8-10mm hdpe
Although Little Hitter is a powerful axe, I'm sure my 8mm HDPE lid on the old Drumroll got hit by it a few times and there weren't really any marks or anything. I would imagine that if the parameters of the attack were all good (i.e. if LH got what could be described as a 'perfect hit' on it) then it would make its way into the HDPE but I still wouldn't expect it to penetrate all the way through 8mm thick pieces.
has LH ever changed the ax head? on my lid it looked like it was hit with a sharp blade. funnily enough i was actually cutting up the old lid today to make a guide for the belt on kinetica, and remembered them doing it. lol
That's interesting, I thought axe's would need tougher armour to protect against, good to hear though!
As for surviving a 7' drop I still can't get my head round it, I wouldn't wanna drop out 13kg robot from that height. I could imagine drive shafts bending, HDPE cracking, wiring coming loose....
Speaking of which, for what was a temporary measure, quickly becoming permanent, I'm using three terminal blocks (screw) in the wiring, how do these stand up?
my clusterbot, one half weighed 6.8kg got flipped by flow i think it was, it bounced off the arena roof :lol: , and it was fine just knocked out the link.