1mm titainium cutting and bending

Hi guys

I got a sheet of 1mm Ti for use on my AWs and possibly my FWs, but I need to cut it and be able to bend it (not at a right angle, but round various radius. Any suggestions ?

Do you mean bend in a curved way?

(Message edited by dan_boulton on July 25, 2008)

Depends on what grade it is. If its grade five itll probably either snap or spring back into shape. If its grade 1 or two you should be able to bend it.

Andy

yea like andy says if a high grade it will snap if a tight bend but if its a low grade could you stick it in a vice and bend it?

A guideline, Ti doesnt like to be bend. So a large radius is a must. 5 times thicknes in radius is a rule of the tumb I use.

1mm ti? cut it with a hacksaw!

bend it- low grade just bend it like alu, if its a high grade, heat it up untill its blue then bend it.

Its a high grade Ti, and I was planning on bending it around an 8mm thick rod (not right the way around, just to get a right angle curve), and the main bend is much larger. I aim to make it look like Hells Angels scoop in miniature (see profile for HA)

Dave

what thickness is turbs inner frame and flipper made from ? I did get quotes for 12mm but might change to at least 15mm im sure you were closer to 20mm, do you think 15mm would be ok ?
I dont think toxic 2 will b ready until febuary
due to no-one being interested in machining
6082t6
I will get there soon though!

Terry.

Terry, you are right its 20mm, the flipper is just plain old box section. I think 15m would be ok, we went for 20mm basically because thats what size the plate comes in and didnt want to waste money in the shape of swarf.

Cheers Ed, what size rod or bolts does your flipper pivot on ? im thinking of a bit of 20mm bar drilled through the 15mm plates at the top,
do you have any bearings fitted ?

25mm titanium bar, drilled out..it sits in a bronze bush in the bulkhead and just runs in some steel tube which is welded into the steel work on the flipper arm.

20mm plate was way ott- but was cool. 12mm would probably do you.

the most important part is the arm, if your having an arm with a bend in it- try to design it with a tension bar going from the pivot to the tip.. otherwise the arm will try to straighten itself out when it fires without load on.. doesnt have to be much.. turbs is just some 12mm high tensile tube.

Cheers Dave
thats most of the flipper sorted,
have you used hardox/ti at the end of the flipper
so it can easily be changed when bent up or is it
all the same material ?

the whole nose is welded hardox. the original plan was to have a removeable plate that could be bolted on and sharpened or fixed and put back on.. realised its more robust to have it all solid at the tip and when its blunt to just weld the tip up with hard facing rods and sharpen it again. Both turbulences tips were hardox plates welded to the box section with bits covering the ends- reinforcing it, and at the same time not allowing things to get under the side of the flipper front.. keep the welds as beefy as possible and dont grind them down underneath, but keep the front as smooth as possible.