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hi all
a couple of questions which i need answers too.
i have got extra failsafes on my drive speed controllers two fs-1s , but i dont know how to set them as i got them second hand- does anyone know how to set them?
also how many amps should i set for a charge and then discharge of nicad/nimhs in a cycle?
thanks alex
The FS 1s I had ........have a small hole thru which you access a screw.
Add your FSIs in the line between your reciever and the controllers..... now with the bots wheels off the ground just try everything as per usual .... if everything functions correctly turn the transmitter OFF ...... then use a small screwdriver to twiddle the setting screw.. you should be able to get speed control by twiddling the screw ... fwd neutral rev ..... select an OFF neutral position on both failsafes.
I would say charge/discharge at about 1amp. At events I charge at 3amps but when cycling its best to do it at a lower current.
I go lower than an amp, down to 500mA but then it depends on how much patience you have :)
Yeah mine doesnt stretch to 6 hours per pack, lol
nicad/nimhs can be tricke charged and 1/10C rate, if you want your batteres to last as long as possible then you should trickle charge them between events for 14 hours at that rate (they dont have to be flat before hand), this balances out all the individual cells, the only reason I can see for discharing is to find out the battereis true capacity and if you wish you can do this after a trickle charge, then you can charge them normally.
having difficulty with the failsafes, does the order go
speedo-v-tail mixer-failsafe-reciever
or
speedo-failsafe-v-tail mixer-reciever?
started to cycle my nimhs think i set it at discharge 0.8a and charge at 1.5a
taking awhile:)
alex
OR Reciever - Failsafes - V-tail mixer - Speedos.
Try the order Ive posted.
thats just the same way as the first one i posted,
anyway cheers, this cycling business is very slow on my other charge there is just a discharge or charge funtion not cycle and dis charging that way seems to be quicker but probablr not as good for the batteries?
i ended up stopping the first cycling battery because it was charging to over 10vs and its only an 8.4v pack, is it ok to leave it charge or should i stop them?
also the failsafes a very hard to sort out, is the neutral postiton in the middle all the time?
also i was testing my lifter while driving see what would happen, the lifter was jerky and the drive motors too, but when run on there own they are fine, will the failsafes help or is a different issue?
sorry for the bulk questions, just want to eget everthing sorted out!
thanks alex
The Failsafe neutral should be in the middle .. they shouldnt be that hard to set as long as your receiver isnt producing a string of valid but random signals when the transmitter is off.
The voltage rises on my charger as well ....... its fine.
The jerkyness is more than likely interference of some sort ( the source can be difficult to pin down ) and the FS1s will have a limited dampening effect ....rejecting bad signals.
yet another question, dont know if anything can be done about it but...
i use a drill motor with chuck to power the lifter, the threaded bar is secured in the chuck but this can sometimes come undone, is there anything that can done to prevent this?
i thought about dril a hole through chuck and threaded bar then bolting it in place, good idea or not?
thanks alex
i seem to have sorted the failsafe issue by taking out the failsafes, seems to failsafe fine/better without them.
Your speedos might have one built in .....but leave one on the lifter.
(Message edited by woody on August 27, 2007)
Drilling a hole through the chuck and rod and running a bolt through should be fine for securing the threaded rod - just make sure the hole is a maximum (less might be better) of half the width of the threaded rod, just to reduce the risk of weakening the connection
Id advocate getting someone to add a drop of weld between the chuck and the rod... one tack on each chuck jaw.... It will still be possible to remove the threaded bar by sawing or grinding thru the weld.
i will ahve to try the drilling option as of the time issues, i do have one on my lifter that doesnt work fine without one:)
thanks alex