New hw robot prodigy

Hi people, purchased a robot off ebay (janus) basically it has been stripped, new wiring, new 12mm polycarb armour, hydralics seem to be working fine, in 2 minds whether to remove this or leave it in. Im now stuck on the pneumatics. The previous owner couldnt tell me much. i know it runs of a relay which is working but i know nothing about refilling the thing. i have attached a pic to profile of the bottle he gave me. it seems to push into a connector on the side of the robot which is linked to a co2 (i presume) bottle permanently fixed to the robot. anyone tell me how to refill this or any other info.the big bottle thats not fixed to the robot has a label on it but that doesnt say much,it has a good size ram on it but i dont know how powerful it is,i have attached a link of how the robot once looked!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Real-ROBOT-WARS-robot-Life-Size-Full-Size_W0QQitemZ220104372653QQihZ012QQcategoryZ65247 QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemhttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Real-ROBOT-WAR...QQitemZ2201043 72653QQihZ012QQcategoryZ65247QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

(Message edited by ady on May 14, 2007)

Its a fairly standard Airline quick coupling ....it looks similar to an AP97.
http://www.hydravalve.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=234&option= com_virtuemart&Itemid=1http://www.hydravalve.co.uk/index.ph...=234&option=co m_virtuemart&Itemid=1

You appear to have a bought a bot that uses High Pressure Air.
For your pressure specs look at the donor and receiver bottle FILL PRESSURE rating.

your right woody i have looked further and it does uses high pressure air, the big bottle says 300 bar? the bottle on the bot says 3000psi i think, but hard to read.

(Message edited by ady on May 14, 2007)

Im not sure if the FRAs current rule set includes high pressure air.... I.E. Onboard storage pressures above 1000 psi.
Youd need to supply your own donor bottle at each event...getting it refilled could be a pain.

Id be inclined to swap to the readily available co2.

Got a decent pic of the insides?

300 Bar sounds right.
Youll more than likely have a small scuba tank ( 232 bar )in the bot as a receiver.
http://www.simplyscuba.com/SearchResults.aspx?Reset=1&Loopback=1&Department=5 526http://www.simplyscuba.com/SearchRes...epartment=5526



(Message edited by woody on May 14, 2007)

i have no inside pics at mo as it is all stripped out, hopefully in the next couple of weeks it will be finished and i will post a full set of pics of the finished product! the bottle in the machine looks the same as a co2 bottle i see in alot of machines. do you think im reading it right at 3000psi, or could is be 300?

(Message edited by ady on May 14, 2007)

Adrian

Feel free to email me during the rebuild if you think I may help.

Cheers Alan

Its a standard compressed air bottle. the black and white painted top is the giveaway.

basicly you have the same option as me with Obsidian, leave it as it is or convert to co2.

So how is Janus apart from that? Is the drive working ok?

(Message edited by leorcc on May 14, 2007)

btw, for now I decided to keep Obsidian on Nitrogen and fill it to 70Bars. 300 bars in the robot is not allowed anyway (under FRA rules). And I totally agree with that rule.

I thought that the word AIR written on the cylinder was a bit of a clue:proud:

http://www.dsheen.plus.com/Ebay/Folder%209/DSCF0041.JPGhttp://www.dsheen.plus.com/Ebay/Folder%209/DSCF0041.JPG

oh yeah whoops!, the drive works fine, so does the hydralics, i had to start wiring from scratch to get it working, never found the fault of why it wasnt working before, and fit new batteries, but it seems to work well, i used all the old panels as templates to make the new ones out of polycarb, its starting to look good now but i still have some panels to finish. so if i wanted to use this in competition i would have to bin the this current setup and go to co2? and wondered how much work was involved in converting it

Space is likely your main prob.... Why?
Well I.M.H.O. youd want two tanks .....a main tank and a buffer.
It really depends on your gas needs / usage...liquid CO2 gets cold as it expand / boils to become gas and things like regulators and valves can freeze..... expanding the gas relatively slowly via the regulator into a buffer tank prevents total freezing of the regulator and keeps most of the freezing effect away from the valves.
A buffer tank also give you a better flow potential for your valves and ram.

(Message edited by woody on May 14, 2007)

Thinking about it do you really want to convert the whole system to pneumatic? This sounds like it is purely for weapon speed, its not going to be much of an improvement of the hydraulic claw, just the speed to flip over.. why not convert it the other way and go full hydraulic, a smaller ram attached near to the hinge of the self righting arm if it had enough grunt will turn the bot back over and the short stroke of the ram will add alittle bit more speed to self righting. Just a suggestion!

Chris - ^_^

if its just for self righting, can regulated co2 not be used to charge the compressed air system? a 600g bottle can be fully vented into his larger bottle, for example? if the maths are done right, this should be ok I assume? It looks like it was basically done this way, in charging the system from a mastertank, so why not with regulated co2?

(Message edited by jamesb on May 14, 2007)

If the tank volume to gas usage ratio is ok @ the lower pressure ( A third less than the tank could hold )then there isnt a prob.

I suppose it really depends on Januss pneumatic system.
Yes a 20 oz paintball or 600 gram cylinder should fill a 3 litre tank with gas to close to the current max allowed.

It is not a bad idea, it would eliminate the freezing problem.

i not using it just to self right, i need it to be a flipper also and a decent one, i may just remove the whole hydralics claws to free up the weight.the main weapon is the flipper

Thats too bad, the reason i was interested in Janus was the hydraulics, not the pnumatics.

Sounds something of a waste

Adrian can you give the pneumatic ram dimensions and the flipper tip height from closed to open.
In general l.p. flippers run two tanks ......main and buffer ....... of approx the same size as you already have installed.. assuming your current tank is a 3 litre scuba or similar.

The combined weight of a main 2kg co2 tank and a 15 bar buffer tank ( both of approx 3 litres volume ) will probably be on a par with your scuba .....so itll be room to squeeze in the extra tank rather than weight being an issue.

The ram looks something like 60mm bore x 300mm stroke?

the main ram body is 60mm thick, and the body length is 300mm, with the flipper open the piston rod as it were itself is 18mm thick and 190mm long, or somewhere round that, hopes this makes sense:crazy: the hydralics will only be removed if i start having serious weight issues, but i will have to see what happens when its on the scales! also i dont think that room will be an issue on this machine, theirs seems to be amble space around the robot i think,


(Message edited by ady on May 15, 2007)

Your not going to be chucking robots across the arena with a 50ish mm bore ram running @ 10 bar....itll only self right you and turn opponents over.
Beef up the flipper arm and you could run something competative like a 80mm or 100mm bore ram @ 10 bar ......15 bar would be best if you can get / afford the bits.