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I was wondering if anybody knew of any resonably priced components that would be needed to create a current limiter which ran in line with a relay. I, to be honest do not have a clue about anything on the lines of current limiting... so help would be helpful :)
I am looking at current limiting at a rating of about 30-40amps on 18v to a motor. It would not be working with a speed controller, It would only be working in line with a relay.
Cheers, Ewan
why dont just ordet a speed controller whit built in current limit, lock at some 4QD,s
Does anyone know if the 4QD NCC 24V 35A from technobots current limited, and if it will run happily at 18v? I know the responce, even in the robot version 4QD controller is not excellent, but all I need is an on/off function.
Does the 4QD NCC 24V 35A run off a pot (servo) or will it connect directly to most standard RC (futaba being standard) sets?
Cheers, Ewan
All models in the NCC series are current limited, and they require the same type of interface as all 4QD controllers.
ok, thats probably my best bet...
Ill earn the money somehow... :)
I also noticed that the Vader team had a unidirectional controller for sale. Can handle up to 100A and still much cheaper than the NCC series (youd probably need to lower the current limit though).
http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/discus/messages/89/2283.htmlhttp://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/disc...s/89/2283.html
In responce to Ewans original post, it seams that Noel Poncelet of Hassocks Hog has found a component that does everything that Ewan was asking for:http://www.hassockshog.co.uk/build_diary_2.htmhttp://www.hassockshog.co.uk/build_diary_2.htm
go to the entry on may 28th.
It talks about a fully auto-protected power MOSFET (VNP49N04).
This sounds really interesting to me if it works. Ive been thinking for a while now of designing a bolt on current limiter that modifies the signal going to an ESC or somehow switches the output off when the current reaches a preset level, but it seems a much simpler solution to just stick this mosfet in series with the ESC outputs.
would this work though?
Problems I can see:
1) dissipating the heat it produces
2) it would waste some power
3) its another component that could fail
assuming these problems could be overcome would this work to protect motors from over heating or help batteries last a bit longer?
Mark
Wow, thanks Mark, Ill do some testing, and get back with the results.
Cheers, Ewan
I dont think you could use the VNP49N04. The problem in particular is the section that states When the current limiter is active, the device operates in the linear region, so power dissipation may exceed the capability of the heatsink.
This means that rather than turning off altogether, the gate-source voltage (the signal that turns the MOSFET on and off) is reduced so the MOSFET is operating in the linear region. The linear region means that the MOSFET is neither fully on nor fully off. Only when it is fully on or off is it dissipating reasonable amounts of power. When it is half on and half off, the power dissipation can be hundreds of times larger. Then the temperature will rise rapidly, and the MOSFET temperature protection will shut it down. Im not sure this is a nice way to operate the device, and will certainbly reduce its reliability.
I have designed a current limiting circuit, but its built into a speed controller design. You can find it in section 10 here: http://homepages.which.net/~paul.hills/SpeedControl/SpeedControllers.htmlhttp://homepages.which.net/~paul.hil...ntrollers.html
This could be redesigned to reduce the PWM ratio based on the current. I havent time to do this at the moment Im afraid, but Ill bear it in mind for the future.
Have a go at using the 40N04 by all means, and report your results. Good luck!
Ive used these in Little Spinner. I started with the 20A versions and worked fine till I connected the disc to the motor. The Motor drew 23A starting current (connected directly to the battery) and with this MOSFET it overheated and shut down in less than half a second. It then pulsed as it cooled down and heated up so qucikly it was audiable. I replaced it with the 50A version and it worked fine from then on.
If you are wondering the heat sink was a solid ally block approx 10cm x 2cm x 2cm and it still overheated the MOSFET. The motor stall is not over 50A so in effect it should never hit this. I would not recommend using it in a PWM application unless its very low freq as its got a very long turn on/off time. I only use it in case of a short circuit in a on/off application.
Ok, looking into it thermo shut-down could be a problem, seeing as the motor can draw LOTS of amps when stalled... I might have to find a different one even to this afterall, as I really do need less of a problem due to heat...
how do you get all the cash to buy all the parts Ewan i thought u were 13???
I earn my money through various jobs mostly, I only get 15 pounds pocket money a month so that doesnt cover much.
Also my sponsors cover the costs of quite alot of my robot(s) components.
Ewan has done something most kids dream of, build a robot on your own. He have also proved that you dont need heaps of money to get a competative robot, only knowledge about what you do. If you know what youre talking about, and can prove that to other people, most companies dont care that youre only 13 years old.
There are thousands of companies out there thatd love to sponsor a robot with their products, you only have to find them. Something that Ewan have done quite well for someone so young.
ok but how much is your robot worth ewan?
itd take far too long to work out- but its worth alot
4 drills some 10mm ali, ibc and some polycarb
an some other stuff, but yeah thats it
Well if kenny is right then its prob worth about 400pounds including control gear etc.
Should probably be higher than that, with the new titanium skirts and the custom built gearbox for the lifter weapon.
yeah its worth ALOT more than 400 quid
(IBC-Radio-Cable-Bolts-Nuts-Aluminium+cutting and machining-Polycarb-3xexpensive batts-charger-powersupply-ti-zinc plated steel-lifter mechanism-connectors-drills-a workshop-spinner mech-electronize weapon speedo-wheels-and abit more stuff)
It kinda counts up
You cant include the cost of your workshop in the cost of a robot. If you could then my robot will be worth about 25,000+ just for the workshop tools available.
And costs dont matter the cheepest robot can often be better. Just look at the way foxy boxy does well and its cheep.
Regards
Ian
oi foxy boxy aint cheap, its top quality LOL only messing.
Foxy Boxy heres the spec,
3 days work
£150 max
drills, electonise, an old radio gear set, and some scrap polycarb.
Its fought about 30 fights, only needed one repair, and is great fun.
Was supposed to be sold to a family, but they decided agianst it, so its my toy now.
jonno
yea ewan but you havent paid for hardly any of it have you :)
and for £400 im building a heavyweight so sometimes spending all this money on a feather you could have a massive thing :)
yeah, I hardly brought any of it myself, most of it being sponsored :)