The Skinner

Getting quite tempted to break out the MiG. Concept so far is only a sketch in plywood , but would involve a 50lb+ drum powered by a Briggs Stratton with victor 883's juicing some Bag motors and Vex gearboxes into 16" wheels. Frame mainly constructed from 20mm tube apart from the ubiquitous hardox box containing the expensive bits and cheap Chinese titanium. Car tyre armour and pivot bars with mini remora multibots, basically spikes with big magnets on their head to go stick on an opponent. Sprinkle in machine learning cluster mesh and devolved autonomous operation with all functions of robot currently being live tweeted by onboard BBC microbit as a way to ensure automatic selection for series 2. Something for the robo professor to discuss, Semi fragile design to appeal to production based on the promise of skinning to death other weak entries and going large on self destruction to those who spend too much. ;)

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDMOwXxZ-cM

inverted of course

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Btad8nVb6aA

Would love to hear any input. But please note that before you do, I suffer like many others here from Dunning-Kruger syndrome. Quite a serious disease.

Fixed axle on the drum, 30mm Kart axle most likely with rotating mass and pulley spinning on it. Side pods to be added and to provide outrigger stability to wheel axles.

I've plumped for a fixed stub axle for my 30(ish degree) spinner (ala Wild Thing)
http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/atta...5&d=1472658301
I wanted to go full vertical, but figured it'd just fall over.

So you reckon belt drive? - 259 was belt, what about that other spinner you had?
Looking at cobalt, Mouldy seemed to have a centrifugal clutch, then chain drive?

Relay contactor, or speed controlled ?

also I think I'd have gone with orange buckets.

Used v-belts before. They seemed to do the trick and had some built in slippage. Calculations for belt size between centres more forgiving than with tooth belt or chain. I did run a chain drive on the Blendo clone, but that had the benefit of a centrifugal clutch on the 4-stroke. There are some slipper pulleys as well , but probably simple is best for a do or die excursion. I presume you mean a 30 degree from horizontal disk or bar?. I'd expect a lot of tombstone and minatour clones to crop up. Very simple no nonense designs with large damage prospects if they keep working. Contactor for the ease again, you just turn on and forget and don't worry. Orange buckets too expensive. Black buckets only 99p forms wickes.

By Briggs And Stratton, do you mean an Etek or petrol engine?

Are magnets allowed according to the build rules? I'm thinking of in particular 13.2.4.
http://www.robotwars.tv/media/1243/r...uild-rules.pdf

If its not intended to affect a robots electronics then its ok, in the same way you need teathers on certain weapons like axes which are not intended to entangle another robot. I'd keep the magnets relatively low force, say 25kg with direct contact, so that their magnetic field is fairly localised. If you still have concerns, email Robot Wars and ask.

This thread is awesome your comments make me laugh! It's nice to see someone else with a dark sense of humor lol :) your robot looks awesome, so different but down to earth at the same time. Would you worry about the wheels getting chewed off or is that the part of the design that would appeal to the production crew for good telly lol.

I thought is was also that they are somewhat like using entanglement (as well as interfering with electronics as you noted). I suppose it would be best to avoid soft magnets such as ceramics. It is good to know magnets aren't ruled out completely.

I would like to see a larger picture of your concept art actually. I really want to see more builds that are trying to be different and entertaining/funny.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mole55

By Briggs And Stratton, do you mean an Etek or petrol engine?

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Etek, Briggs and Stratton first made the pancake motors, probably replacements for the ride on Mowers,which mostly have vertical crank engines, like the Tecumseh range

Quote:

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Originally Posted by daveimi

Would you worry about the wheels getting chewed off or is that the part of the design that would appeal to the production crew for good telly lol.

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What could possibly go wrong with exposed wheels, although the mangulator didn't fare too well :)

I keep meaning to put a matrix together with wheel combinations, wedge vs spinner vs flipper etc to see what makes a good combination.
Although exposed wheels scream out , do not do! there does seem to be a large percentage of successful robots that seem to get through with them hanging out there. I would probably plan for some side bars though but need to get more creative with the tube bending first.

Original Sin, Sewer Snake etc. I think And His Army was about pretty much perfect for fighting spinners. The combinations you talk about are a bit like rock paper scissors.

I would go for belts for power transfer to the drum. I used timing belts onto a smooth ish shaft last season with the whole thing tensioned up to hell but have since decided to switch to V-belts.

Speed control on weapon is preferred but I got away with some chunky power solenoids which worked well.

for just 1p more you could have had killercarrot orange (thus ensuring your wheels fall off)

http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/atta...5&d=1472754936

I reverted to the black buckets as the orange ones tend to delaminate at speed.

Had a bit more time to bend things around, much prefer the new look and trying to work out some brackets for the etek and how it would all go together if made in steel with access to the relevant parts for work and repairs.

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First pass of a multi-bot, just a L298N dual motor controller for £4, a rasp pi zero on wifi and a 4wd chassis with a sonar distance detector. Will need to work out a FOE/FOF detector! Have micro motors and a mini LIPO pack on order for the weekend as the end design will be 2wd with a pointy tail.. Quite like the idea of a mini swarm powered with arduino to hunt and follow anything that moves. Trick will be to get the cost down with ebay parts, £5 for a pair of motors, £5 for a LIPO, home made hubs and flappy wheg wheels. Keep the cost down to about £25 so as to deploy at least 10 of them
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Parrot are releasing Slam dunk kit, full mapping and tracking module in 140g package, looks like a good autonomous off the shelf package. http://www.cnet.com/news/parrots-sla...playing-drone/

It's funny, I thought about minibots but then I realised that my disc would take it out every match.

Depends of course if the series director with his meeja degree in applying coloured gels to LED gobbos and Greek story concepts thinks another spinner generates .02 to the BARB rating or prefers some crazeee AI swarm bot to get the judges making a pickup on teknology for the edukatshun segment. ;)

the saying goes, that to finish, you first have to start.

Im being funny of course but I'm looking more about competing than winning.

have a look at Ian's Creepy Crawlies in Battlebots, they are solid little Hardox boxes, but physics is a git, and a big spinner just smacks them about like golf balls...
http://www.battlebots.com/robot/creepy-crawlies/

yep, was a pity that they drew them against Whyachi for that purpose

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Version 2 about to come to life....

1A Lipo (god i didnt realise how light these are compared to Nicads, LOL)
a dual driver, gear motors and a pi zero on wifi and a sonar module and a lashed up 5v bec

Now two wheel and we getting some where on the hunt protocol for looking for things near and heading to them. Considering what they do with sumo bots I would have thought there would have been a lot more aiming assist with the crop of feathers and beetles.

Plus it can tweet random rudeness at the same time, suggestions welcome for the minibots and I'll set up a twitter account

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