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Found this on ebay
should i use this for drive ?
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Decker...item258951801b
and for a weapon motor like that of tormenta 2/ or sewer snake , should i use this? -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Decker...item23314e379b
or this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-He...3D181436682798
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trades-Pro-1...item4acf44016c
Thanks
Rahul
Are you based in the US?
I would stay away from hammer drill mechanisms as they are a pain.
Difficult to say on the others as I am not familiar with them.
Dang, the postage on that one is higher than the drill itself (USA to Netherlands)
well, my uncle is visiting me, he is from usa.
so hammer drills are difficult to open?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Decker...item258951801b
is this one good?
i tend to find that the black and decker drills generally use plastic gears but if your not over volting them then it should be ok
Easiest way to see if something is good/reliable is to search for it on a place like amazon and see what the reviews say. Read the lower reviews too as they may highlight things like reliability issues or poor manufacture.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rahulvyas
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-B...ustomerReviews
In this case it seems fine with only one mention of a poor build and 2 people saying the batteries didn't last. Given you wont be using the batteries you can ignore this.
Do this sort of thing before asking on here. Its quick, its easy and it means you will learn more than us just giving you the answer.
No it's not that they are difficult to open. It's that the hammer mechanism makes the gearbox more complex and you will have to disable the mechanism to get the drill to work as a drive motor.
@typhoon alright, i read that hammers are powerful compared to normal drills, are they?
and higher voltage means more torque?
@Eventorizon- i will do a research then, thanks for the tip
@plargen- which ones is the cheapest drill which is good for this use? and that most featherweights use?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RYOBI-ONE-PL...item258a64ec9e
getting these ones (3 pcs)
i have found ryobi drill to be robust in my robots ive never had to change a motor or gearbox in any event that they have been in and they have been smacked around quite a bit at GSL the last 2 years, although i did have to tighten the 2 screws holding the motor in after the second year lol ...... the version i used were CHD-1201 over volted to 4s
if you after 18 volt i would suggest these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Ryobi-...item4ad89988c0
or these depends how many you need
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_od...1801m&_sacat=0
they look the same as mine so they should have the proper bearing on the drive shaft which makes them nice and robust
Ok, what is the cheapest power source for this?
and what is the easiest and cheapest ESC for this motor?
Easiest and cheapest. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...d_Car_ESC.html
7.5V max unfortunatly
The cheapest powersource, third hand 2.54Ah SLA.
Best bang for the buck, with the esc's in mind.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html
oh that looks great mad, but for 18v , 2S must be very underpower!
Then you search for a cheaper, lower voltage dril, a 9.6V one for example.
Those speedo's are in the end 45A, and @ 7.4V that's 333W peak, each side.
No drill , except de high end machines like DeWalts, will draw that in a normal drive of a robot.
Defector run on 3S in combination with 12V Gimsons.
And those are normal batterydrill setups with fancy mounting plates. With a different -lower voltage- 540 size motor those will do the job equaly good. If you draw 100W in a batterydrill based drive, , it's heavy pushing with great grip on the wheels.
well, its late they have already bought the drill...
maybe now i have to build my own motor controller!?
That ain't cheaper, nor easier.
For cheapness , you can try to use the trigger in combination with a servo. Some of the old school feathers used that setup with a little bit of succes. But it ain't easy to get the reverse right.
Other option, the BotBitz TZ85's. Best bang for the bucks on the voltages you want to use. But I fear that's less cheap than you would wish for.
cant we hack a brushless esc (6s) to a brushed one with reverse?
The Botbitz TZ85 is such an hacked one.
In origin it's a Tz85a from Hobbyking. if you can hack it yourself it's a tad cheaper than buying BotBitz.
On the other hand, I buy BotBitz when we need new TZ85's or simular.
maybe i will go with the trigger hack thing, later will get this boybitz ESC
Hey Plargen, I received one of the 3 drills i ordered. I opened up the body and took off the motor, not the problem is there is a sliding mechanism which switches the 2 modes on the drill, how do i lock it?? Also how do i lock the rotating motor to gearbox mechanism? it keeps opening on itself if i rotate is little bit.
Also, some gears came out , you know how i put them in place back?
depends on the position and design of the sliding mech i have some with a bit that sticks out the top of the gearbox which i have held in position with insulating tape or if its pushed in you could use a bit of hdpe with a motor sized hole molted from the motor side to the mount
also i found insulation tape good at holding the motor in place
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps00db771a.jpg
the gears should pop back into place relatively easily
Here is a picture of mine, please tell me what to do, looks a bit different from yours, is your the old model with 3/8" clutch?
Attachment 4734
It looks like yours has multiple speeds (the lever on the body) though a little tricky to tell from the photo
You need to get the chuck off the drill. Most likely there is a left hand threaded bolt that is holding it on. Undo the bolt then take the chuck off (a normal right hand thread)
You will need to lock the clutch in the drill once the chuck the the collar are off. You will most likely find lots of ball bearings drop out once you take the white collar off. In place of those screw bolts (better grub screws in) until they lock against the clutch.
There are pictures and guides such as http://www.instructables.com/id/Hack...oxMotors-for-/
Yes, my drill has 2 modes, in one mode, high torque on other lower torque.