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I like the look of these (Thanks Ellis) http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/GR02...gearmotor.html
24:1 ratio, plain tabs looks my best bet
If you have plans for a spinner, I'd recommend buying the extra bearing support that bolts to the front of the gearbox, or better still having a bearing support on the other side of the wheel(s). By nature, spinners see huge forces, as not only do they receive the same blows as other bots, they dish them out!
If you mount the wheels very close to the gearbox face you may not need this extra measure, but it's all in the aim of gaining reliability. :)
Looking forward to the build, best of luck :)
The motors came with a free bearing kit I believe ("Every GR02 gearmotor sold is supplied with a free external bearing kit, worth £5.70
")
http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/12mm...l-bearing.html that's the bearing I would get
Just stripped out a drying machine motor. seems a bit to heavy for use in a featherweight. I will get a picture asap
Chances are that's an AC ~240v motor, designed for mains. You want a DC 12-24v(ish) sort of range motor. Hobby sites sell a selection of "brushless" (vs the traditional brushed) motors, which are the popular kind of motor for today's spinner weapons. I'd suggest reading up on what they're all about, what the numbers mean etc.
yes the voltages are way off anyway I don't want to mess around with 240v because I know how it feels. I was more scavenging for brackets and bearings more than the motor.
No standard house hold appliance will supply you with any decent parts at all mainly as they have no weight limits and as such have low cost parts that do the job but weigh a ton in comparison to something half decent.
The GR02's have a few problems with them that can cause them to fail. The bearing on the front will help somewhat but if you can support the bearing on the other side too.
Sorry if this is a little blunt but your design is very out dated. It looks very much like a machine from series 1 or 2 from robot wars.
You will not hit anyone with your weapon even with your skirts as Pushbots and Flippers will always be lower. Your weapon wants to stick as far out the front of your machine as you can get away with, without compromising strength and rigidity.
The machine is too long to have a good fast turning circle. Most machines these days are more or less square as you get a good turning speed with great stability. This can be messed with to suit your design. For instance my machine is quite a long way off square if you go by the wheels contact points. Its 294mm Wide and 187.5mm long. But maximum dimensions are 415mm x 345mm.
Stick at 12V or 24V to begin with. If you use lipos then go 3S (11.1V) to 6S (22.2V) is where you want top be looking. My first machine ran 2 voltages (One for the drive and one for the weapon). This was a pain to wire up but meant I could focus the weight more precisely towards specific systems.
Sketch and draw your concepts first and have images that you can look at. As mentioned before, the evolution of fighting robots has developed some very robust and strong designs. Don't feel that you are copying someone as they will most likely have copied someone else but tweaked it for their own needs.
Once you have most of it planned out the move to a mix of Cardboard and Sketch up. Many people (me included) have designed things in CAD that are impossible to assemble in reality. Use the Cardboard to double check your logic.
In order of things to buy... get your motors, ESC's, batteries and TX/RX first so you can test your electronic set up. Remember, you can change the chassis design as much as you like to suit your internal parts, but you cant modify your parts to fit the chassis. (If that makes sense)
I would look at the build diaries of these machines...
-Tormenta and Tormenta 2 (Team Expat) Machines built very well on a budget.
-360, 540 and 720 (all under 360 build diary) Some of the best engineering and design
-Scruffy, very solid and reliable machines using basic parts that you aught to be wary of in the arena
-RogueTwoRobots, Some great ideas and engineering with a range of good machines.
-Team Invade, Current UK champs with Explosion, enough said.
-NST, 2012 Champion, Incredible bullet-proof engineering
My own build diary (Eventorizon) covers a large amount of me designing and building Conkers 1, 2 and 3 as well as our 2nd machine Binky. Most of the questions you will have will be answered in that thread.
(Wow... I am have written a lot)
Perfect anyway I was going to scrap my original design because of the inversion problem. I am now looking to see what I can do in terms of full rotation around the body of the robot as that style offers a strong offence and a good shield for defence. I will do some CAD and playing about with card and see what I come up with. so I am off the white board again, thanks for the help
Produced a Design that works inverted and has no active weapons!
Basic description: Small compact design with ESC's and Lipo's mounted in cutting wedges. Main body is long with 2 GR02 motors to provide power and control. When in combat the robot will spin a high speed on the spot to launch/hit the opponents. Should the robot become inverted the wedges will still be able to apply the same force to the side of the robot. In the correct orientation the Wheels extend less upwards providing more protection although still able to operate inverted. Basic design but with less ability to add active weapons unless up scaled to a heavyweight where more room allows placement of additional motors.(Hint Hint)
That style of robot has been built before but needs complicated electronics to make it translate whilst spinning or else no robot will bother driving into you whilst you are spinning.
ok I understand you point so I should install a Adriano micro controller that will allow more control over the signals between the RX and the motors. I can write my own program that I can calibrate to my robot.
Attachment 3949
A little bigger for extra hardware and weight and clearance for internal mounting for motors. Also smaller wedges so that I don't loose power because of overlap in the middle.
Oh yes also I can wire my Arduino to a APC220 so I can send Serial Data allowing telemetry such as battery voltage and motor speed etc. Receive that and place it onto a screen on a laptop
sounds very interesting. You will need more speed though but I like where this is going.
This looks good! Need to remove some of the 90 degree corners on the back edge (True spinners will be spinning faster than you are!) Melty Mind Drive as its called is difficult but it might be possible with an arduino. You need an accelerometer and a gyro in their to work out your spin speed and the forces so you can subtract them from the movement you want, thus keeping the spin but giving you translation.
For this idea I would go for the fastest drive possible. The msr 12-54 or even the 16-50(this one is insane).100mm wheels and 2 Botbitz Tz85's.
6s lipo pack and 4 even 5 mm hardox in a monocoque configuration makes it complete.
You could make 2 sets of blades/scoops. This could mean you use it as a standard push but with two blades on one side or select your direction of spin. This may be useful if people expect you fight a certain way they will develop a strategy to beat you based on that rotation. If you are suddenly spinning the other way it can make all of their plans go out the window and they have to try reversing their own driving strategy.
Do you have a link? I can't find them.Quote:
Originally Posted by maddox10
There isn't a link. MSR stands for Metal Skull Robotics (Inventor, Dutch roboteer). those drives are in Satanix and one of the Beauties, as well in several other machines. The 12-54 is the fastest in use to date, the 16-50 will be insane.
And the source of them , currently, is me. 1 problem, I don't have any speed 900's to spare.
Speed 900's are to rare to be used in a new machine now they have stopped production.
You would be better off spending the money on some 16:1 banebots with 550 motors, then putting 124mm wheels on them. That will do a theoretical top speed of around 18MpH on a 5S lipo. That would equate to some serious spin speeds.
Otherwise, brushless setups are popping up here and there.
The motors ain't the issue anymore , it's the speedo's.
Would the speedo issue actually be simplified by the complicated nature of a melty brain? No reversing delay issues and such. Could be worth looking into.
Ok Lots of information to digest here but if im correct:
The Motors need to be faster.
I can add a second wedge/surface to the other side to give wider range of attack
4mm hardox sheet metal for the construction.
5s lipo for power.
My preferred budget for this is up to £80 each for the motors and £50 for the ESC's.
I already own a Quattro 4X6 Charger for Almost every type of rechargeable battery but my preferred option is lipo. I also do have a fire bag for charging lipos which I believe is required for events (and it should be).
2 of these speedo's and for motors, these ones
Don't blame me if it doesn't work, but it's inside your set budget, and has , on paper, the oomph to do the task.
Just made some changes to the shape to make the box section stronger, the wedge more aero-dynamic and added a nice little present on the back, as you suggested.
my only concern with prop drives is that they are not robust enough for the stresses of being a spinner, What's your opinion?
what 100mm wheels are suggested to give the best speeds. Metal construction with rubber is my preferred option.
That I rebuild them with ease, simpler than brushed motors with a pressed metal can.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Smith
I can't see any benefits over electric power. The torque an electric motor provides is essential in all things robots, pretty much. Plus, unless I'm missing something, I see no way of getting a proper melty brain drive out of an engine. Also, clutches? Fuels? Exhausts? I'd stick to the proven!
edit: see you edited that post :P
You'll generally find ESCs cost more than motors, unless you're including gear reduction into those price figures.
There are hundreds of options to look into, brushless-wise. I have no idea about ESCs, though. In conventional tank-steering robots, whilst as Mario said, brushless motors are ready, speed controllers that are suitable are hard to find.
There are one or two brushed motor options. The larger Dewalt motors, such as these, for example, have been the drive behind powerful featherweights (even lightweights) for years.
edit: as for wheels, "Banebots" 98mm wheels are popular. They can be found on www.technobots.co.uk, though Banebots are actually an American company.
oh and yes, custom wheels are very possible. Again, videos on how we made ours are on the channel linked in my sig.
I like HDPE with screwed on bike tyre. But other people did experiement with cast polyurethane foam, and that seems to work as well. Just a lot more expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Smith
So Maddox do you have some specs for the MSR 16-50 motors and gears including dimensions and weight and are they available for sale?
Right now im thinking MSR 16-50 motors if I can get them and some BotBitz 85AMP ESC's. For power I would be looking at a 6s lipo to juice things up.
Jon, You have a PM
i do like the design but i can see 1 problem how are you going to keep the sloped edge against the floor on both sides without it effecting ground clearance and traction, the easiest way i can think of is to have a hinged blade with a spring/elastic holding it down
also you could try using a couple of 2 speed drills for the drive as long as they put out 2000rpm it should do 23mph ish