A change is as good as rest. LOL.
Can anyone tell/show me how the bottle isolation / dump valves should be laid out?
Also any other recommendations?
thanks
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A change is as good as rest. LOL.
Can anyone tell/show me how the bottle isolation / dump valves should be laid out?
Also any other recommendations?
thanks
There is no real "lay out" for a dump valve. That's just a valve that opens the pressure parts to the open air, so the system becomes pressureless. This has to be accessible without tools.
The isolation valve. Unless you have a strange bottle (pin valve for example), the isolation valve is the valve on the bottle.
Valve on the bottle. Is that meant to be a turn valve? Because I don't really see how to release a standard Fire extinguisher valve without tools.
I think you can use tools for the isolation valve. Some people put a bolt through the fire extinguisher valve and do they up to close the valve. But most people swap it for a screw valve.
Oh, you can use a fire extinguisher valve easely enough as main bottle valve.
It's called "be creative". From gaffatape or tie-rip to keep the handle down, to bolt and wingnut, to strong servo's.
You also can use those fire extinguisher main valves as dump valve. Most have a treaded inlet on the inside, where the diptube fits in. That's in most cases a 1/8 bsp. Easy to hook up on the main feed line.
Chaos 2 used them to fire the weapon. So, in that respect those are the precursors of the ubiqtous Burkert.
I know of their usage as a main valve as Mini MORG used electric solenoids to push them down. Not that fast though, but George Francis's driving never made that a problem...
The thing is if you open the dump while the bottle is open, it'll deplete the entire bottle (if it's not already empty from flipping) . Is it meant to be drained after a fight?
Quick query, how to attach a fire extinguisher bottle to 1/2 inch pipework?
Depends partly on what pipes your are using- if using solid cast pipes then you'll need a female to female adapter and then just thread the end of the pipe. If using hydraulic flexible pipes then its just a matter of crimping an M25 thread connector on the end of the pipe. You could also just get the right size pipe with the right thread on the end to screw into the inner thread on the valve (1/8 bsp) and then jut connect that to the rest of your 1/2" pipe work via a T connector with the right sized ports.
So basically it depends on the rest of your pipe work.
I believe this is what you need Ceri
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M25-Male-1...item2c6b4873fc
If this is for the main liquid tank remember the burst disc which is required, but this looks good as I need a 1/2" outlet so I will buy one of these this week ! Cheers for the link :-)
Burst disc?
A male M25 connector isn't much use. The bottle isn't empty, it's both full & charged. I can't take the valve off now.
So this is connecting the main tank to the rest of the system? Then you need a co2 nut on the end of a hydraulic hose ideally.
Not ideal. I'd have pipe a system back to the fire extinguisher valve to fit the the on/off & dump valves.
I suppose if I load the bottle the other way round but then I wouldn't be able to access the fire extinguisher valves in the even of an emergency.
I also have no experience of making hydraulic hoses of any description.
Yes of course, for a main tank you'll require fitting a burst disk somehow... The fitting looks fat enough to have a 9mm hole drilled and tapped on the side to fit one.
I do, and it's not something I do at home. I usualy go to my old employer and have a hose made to fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by psychostorm
On the other hand, I'm perfecting the setups so there ain't a need for heavy hydraulic hoses. Smaller, lighter and cheaper, what else do you want?
Recommendations for a dump valve?
Any small ballvalve that can take the pressure.