2.4ghz conversion and link/dump protection

Im after converting my skysports 6A set that came with Bulldog Breed as its a really nice set up etc but just wondering the best way too do it
Will I need a different receiver etc, never used 40mhz gear yet along converted it so in fairly unknown turf here

Also, as you currently need to unscrew 2 hex head bolts to get to the dump and link, need to sort that out, but cant decide what would be the best way, currently thinking 2 bolts fixed in place with a lock pin through each, but dont know if that would be fine to come under all the rules etc, want to avoid cutting the plate as it looks too nice :lol:

this should help

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthre ... hlight=ff6

That gives me the rough idea, but I though you can get conversion kits for about £30?

http://www.giantcod.co.uk/corona-24g...-p-405857.html
any use?

have a look around giant cod, they might have somthing

That looks really good harry, but what about a RX?

http://www.giantcod.co.uk/corona-c-40_160_310.html

?

ah ye, cheers harry

anyone get any ideas about the plate protection?

Can't use tools to access link/dump, swap them for wing nuts or something.

If your hacking your TX, i've done several using the FrSky system and had no problems with it.

I would advise against the Corona conversion kit. The module that you put in the transmitter is fine, but I've had two receivers crap out on me, one randomly on the morning of a UK champs, and one during a battle in last year's champs. They were also a bit temperamental with regards to powering up.

Since then, I've switched to FrSky and haven't had any problems. Got modules in both my Skysport 6 and Field Force 6 using an 8ch and 4ch receiver, can't speak highly enough of them. The only downside in recommending them is that they're currently out of stock on Giant Cod, but here are the links anyway:

http://www.giantcod.co.uk/frsky-24ghz-c ... 05206.html (Conversion module)
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/24ghz-frsky-r ... 05319.html (8ch receiver)
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/24ghz-frsky-r ... 04806.html (4ch receiver)

There also used to be a 7ch receiver with a hard case (I think) but the only one I can find now is in a soft plastic case similar to the 4ch one: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/frsky-receive ... 05458.html

(I'm assuming these can be used with the conversion kit, but I'm not familiar with the 'SP' on the model name so not 100% sure)

Another great thing about them is that you can set failsafes in the receiver. Once everything's powered up, make sure all your transmitter sticks, trims and switches are in the position you want them to be in when your robot failsafes, press a button on the receiver, and done.

With regards to the link/dump access, can you not attach the panel with just one bolt at the top and let it rotate around that bolt? Saves having to undo/redo any wing nuts etc and allows quick access in case of emergency.

I imagine it would help if we could see a picture of the link cover?

second pic in my build diary

Could you put it on a hinge on the flap and then some Velcro to hold it down? Not the strongest solution but might work

Tried velcro on smidsy, really didnt work well

Okay, just seen the access panel and my last suggestion makes no sense. I'd go with what Max says, put it on some sort of hinge, and then a semi-permanent fixing method to keep it closed. Velcro would be fine, but I'd be tempted to put a little pivoting piece of plastic or metal on it to prevent it from falling open should the velcro unstick during an impact. You can see an example here:

[attachment=0:2wpveonh]100_0193.jpg[/attachment:2wpveonh]

The rear section of that top panel was hinged. The grey tab was bolted to the main part of the top panel and it was moved over the rear section to hold it in place. I could then just rotate it to 'unlock' the rear section and lift it up.

Or you could use a magnet to hold it down or have a spring or bungee cord to pull it down

as long as the wing nuts can be undone by hand, they would be ok?

Technically yes, as they don't require tools to undo them. But there is always a possibility that the nut/bit of bolt sticking out gets hit and/or bent during a battle which could jam up the thread and make it extremely difficult to undo. Having said that, I suppose the majority of access-closing methods could get damaged to such an extent in battle...

Thats how Saint keeps its link in: hinged plate and a wing nut :).

That's easy enough too do, once the change over is done (should be next couple of weeks) and I've changed the cover, that will take about 20 mins work Theb it's all done

Though im still adding some red led's under the flipper ;)