Axe Related Questions.

So my featherweight looks boring.
Just a block of wood that could get stuck on everything (the design is terrible)
I admire Thor for being not a flipper and a really sucsessful axe robot.
I was wanting to rebuild my fw with an axe (sledgehammer) and I have a few questions before I start.
1) Do they need speed control or can they pass a saftey check using servos and switches?
2) Can you program speed controllers to limit the motors movement, make the axe return slower, rapid fire etc? Could a feather weight beginner do this.
3) Would a few speed 900 replicas be suitable axe motors?
4) I know LS4 uses speed 600's in a drill gearbox, could I put any size 600 motor into a drill gearbox?

Thanks in advance for all your helpful replies.
Archie

any help is appreciated here
I like the figures of the banebots motors and would be interested to use banebots 545s with a drill gear box.
how would an rs775 do hooked onto a tz85?
http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M7-RS775-12

Archie,

Banebots motors are standard chinese Leshi / Mabushi motors and aren't as good as the numbers might let people believe. I've been using their gear motors since 2007 and while the gearboxes are really good - specially the P60, the motors are really bad, to put in nice forum appropriated words.

Now to the questions:

1) I won't answer this one, since rules varies between RFL and FRA and I have only competed once on a FRA event.

2) Normally it is not possible to program movement limit on a standard ESC. If I remember correctly the Scorpion XL/XXL had this feature planned, although I think it was never implemented. You can make the axe return slower, just need to limit (trim) the radio signal. I don't see any reason why a beginner could not do an electric hammer featherweight.

3) That depends on the gearing between the motor and the axe arm.

4) Also depends, but on the drill gearbox. One that accepts RS-550 motors will probably and reliably accept RS-600 motors.

Cheers,
Eduardo

Thank you for this response.
I will get in touch with banebots to ask about the figures.
Thanks

does anyone mind if I just add all my questions before I forget them?
can I charge lipos inside my robot even if I have a lipo bag inside my robot?
is using BotBitz 10a on a 15a stall motor too risky even if the BotBitz can take a stall of a lot more than 10
will post more as I remember

You can never charge lipos inside your robot- even if you have a lipo bag inside.
I would definatly no use a botbitz 10A for 15A motors (I presume for a feather weight)- using the 25A ones would probably be alright but is a bit risky, the 85A would definatly be fine. I am am pretty sure those ratings are a bit optimistic and that they are the stall ratings rather than continuous ratings.

the bot-biz ratings are the current ratings for continuous current for a minute, there really only 40 amps for the full 3 minutes

I would advise going for the 85a controllers. You can program them yourself from the original turnigy 85a controllers if you are decent with a soldering iron and have a bit of patience. Did it myself to save a bit of cash rather than importing them.

One of the main reasons you are not allowed to charge lipos inside the robot is because you should be checking they are ok before every charge.

OK so i am still at the planning stage of everything but.
1) How about a few of these batteries http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... _Pack.html
About 3 of those
2) And banebots rs-775 with 16:1 gearboxes like 720 (are the banebots the cheapest gearboxes)
3) 30A Shore bot bitz
4)2 I max B6 chargers.
5) 2 botbitz TZ85A escs (already got)
6) 2.5mm steel armour (is that enough?)
Is jigsawing steel effective (It is dooable but it just wears out the blades loads)
Hows that for a nice setup?
suggestions/improvements welcome as always

Thanks
Archie