Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocracoke
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Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocracoke
So work has hit a brick wall, I managed to get the back panel/ frame added. Then I realised I didn't have enough threaded inserts so I have one side panel still not fixed on yet. Now I would simply buy more but I need to focus on finding work (easier said than done). Good job my target for completion is extreme robots Maidstone.
So I'm using this balance charger: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...v-capable.html
I was told that a 12v 100w power unit like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-24...-/291087849273 should be fine is that true? I want to be sure about it before I get it.
got the same charger and i got THIS, works fine.
Oh thats handy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxamuslead
History repeats itself, during a limbo of not being able to do any work on my bots I let my creative ideas loose and like with my 6wd CSB 2 concept, I ended up creating a new bot, the idea for which started out in a video game.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/65be3638...f23o1_1280.png
Did a bit more to my newest concept. Working on the panels that slot and tab together.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/04360e2b...f23o1_1280.png
https://78.media.tumblr.com/af850838...f23o2_1280.png
Here is a look at CSB’s front wedge and the new planned means of mounting it to the HDPE bulkheads.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/98323640...f23o1_1280.png
Finally was able to give Fusion 360 a go, not a fan of the interface but I’ve managed to persevere. Here is the current progress on the spinner concept and I feel happy to also reveal its name Data Breach. Still some refining to the hardox panels needed.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/1652a554...f23o1_1280.png
And I’m having slight issue with finding timing pulley models for the drive and weapon. Does any body have some I could use? or know where I could find some?
https://78.media.tumblr.com/54debb23...f23o2_1280.png
If you are a student you can download Inventor and use the design tools in there to generate pulleys, belts, gears, chains, etc with the correct center distance and then import them to fusion 360.
https://www.autodesk.com/education/f...r-professional
oh ok, I'll give that look cheersQuote:
Originally Posted by TechAUmNu
Ah pants its only on windows, I'm on mac.
thats a good idea, also you can import a model from McMaster Carr which does a limited number of types but is useful
I'll have a look cheersQuote:
Originally Posted by Maxamuslead
And here we go, I was able to make pulley models following the specs of pulleys online, using one of those McMaster Carr models to get the tooth profile. Now I need to look at wether to have the wheel and pulley as separate items or make them one solid object.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/bbbb262c...f23o1_1280.png
More CAD updates.
So I’ve started adding weight saving holes and added the threaded bars to hold the top and bottom panels on what those panels will be made of is still to be decided.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/63c937dd...f23o1_1280.png
A top down view showing how tight it is inside for the internals. The internals in question are: 2x 775 brushed motors, 6s 3300mah 30c lipo, a Prodrive 5060 360 kv brushless motor, the ESCs are based on the botbitz 85a ESCs and the weapon ESC is based on the turnigy plush 100a.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/1b45e2cc...f23o2_1280.png
As I said the top covers and base plate material haven’t been decided yet as I don’t know what light material to use.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/02fca3e8...f23o3_1280.png
I’ve added the link block to the CAD and slightly hard to see but I’ve added a m12 shoulder bolt as the shaft for the weapon as I’ve seen it being used by other VSs and cause I’m trying to save weight where I can.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/bf77aca4...f23o4_1280.png
And speaking of weight saving here is the rough weight calculations. So far the approximate weight is roughly 12.2kg.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/8a086802...f23o5_1280.png
https://78.media.tumblr.com/0e3f0120...f23o6_1280.png
Also while I remember what would be the recommended ground clearance for arenas like the RoboChallange arena at the moment it's got a 5mm ground clearance, will that be enough or should I am for about 7.5mm-10mm?
Think the ground clearance would be OK at RobotChallenge and Extreme Robots, 10mm is quite high.
Even more CAD updates. I Shortened the wedge saving weight, plus I redid my maths and realised that Data-Breach can actually use a 20mm titanium dead shaft for the weapon.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/e2add423...f23o1_1280.png
https://78.media.tumblr.com/30c08c4b...f23o2_1280.png
Now I should ask, how much bigger should I make holes in 6mm and 10mm hardox for watercutting? So to minimise having to drill out the undersized holes. I've already been told about 4mm hardox.
Ok need some advise on water cutting tolerances. Namely do I need to add x amount of mm to the outside of the part's outline to compensate for the width/ keft of the watercutter?
Fancy render with the logo in view.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/b44b0f09...f23o1_1280.png
So I’ve had a go with adding tolerances to the parts adding 0.5mm round the outside edges for water cutting. Could do with advice from people who’ve done slot and tab panels to check if my tolerances are fine.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/8243abc9...f23o2_1280.png
I can't say much about slot and tab panels, but I've found that the dimensions on my watercut wedge/flipper are at max 0.7mm greater than I expected them to be. Most of the dimensions are about 0.5mm greater.
Also, yeah for smaller holes like 6mm, I would make them a bit larger. I would maybe go 6.5mm - 6.8mm? I can't say for sure, but I made all mine 6mm in my CAD and the bolts didn't quite fit.
A 10mm hole should be fine at its normal size - is this for a bolt or a rod?
CAD is looking very nice!
Yeah all my holes for waterjet are 1mm bigger than required so they are a good clearance fit. The tolerance is caused by the kerf of 0.5-0.7mm for 4mm thick steel. If its thicker you might need more clearance. If they are too small you just ruin a bunch of bolts. Small holes tend to not be very round (<5mm).
Oh ok, so I think I'm on ball with tolerances from what you've said. Thanks
Wow it's been a while hasn't it. Time for a update, after finally getting a new job I was able to get funds for my robots and bought a load of parts for CSB, ranging from wires, connectors, aluminium sheet, foam and Lipo battery to name a few.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/254bfc82...f23o1_1280.jpg
Earlier today I finally did a test run of the bot with it's new battery (and fuse) safely stored in it's aluminium box with foam padding.
https://youtu.be/Y-ncNcJ5NRY
I did a test outside just to make sure everything was fine before I came in and filmed a test inside. However as you'll see in the video the power lights started to play up, I later discovered my solder points had actually broken in places. I've bought a new soldering station to rectify the weak joints made by low temperatures of the old soldering iron which has decided to clap out a hour ago.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/9225dcd8...f23o3_1280.jpg
The robot is looking really good :)
When you are soldering the XT60 on, remember to tin the connector first (put some solder on the connector and the wire), put some flux on the joint, then melt the solder you put on and let the wire slide into place.
this video is good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mH32jwFc8Js
Sorry if you knew this already, this is just something I found useful to know.
Yeah I knew most of that, it just happens to be that my soldering iron was hot enough to do that. But thanks for the video though a handy reminder.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulusSmallus
I've made a big step on CSB today, the hardox wedge arrived from K-cut I just need to file the slots, tabs and holes smooth.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/dec1b40a...f23o1_1280.jpg
The front wedge has been welded and is currently having its paint dry.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/a52ed285...f23o1_1280.jpg
Today was a rush, paint dried, wedge bolted on, internals installed, battery charged. Tomorrow morning Coolspeedbot will be given a full test drive as a complete robot. Some little bits to do but CSB is basically complete.
https://78.media.tumblr.com/424e4a6f...f23o1_1280.jpg
https://78.media.tumblr.com/7c3a9e94...f23o2_1280.jpg
https://78.media.tumblr.com/99472f7f...f23o3_1280.jpg
I recorded the test drive but I noticed that the lights were dimming when I gunned the drive. I did a bench test and couldn't understand why that is doing that. I then found that my motors twitch when I arm up plus there seems to be a clicking noise when I insert the removable link. any ideas why I'm encountering this?
https://youtu.be/Irv5bhg6pvQ
Firstly, I am not an expert in building robots, so someone may have a much better suggestion.
LED dimming
When you put a lot of power into the motor (AKA gunning it), you will draw lots of current.
When the robot is on the floor, the motors have to do more work than sitting on a bench (its got to drive around and move its own weight when it is on the floor) so they will draw more current.
When you draw current from the battery, the voltage of the battery will drop due to its internal resistance. So it makes sense that your LEDs will go slightly dimmer when you are driving around. However, a LiPo battery has a very low internal resistance so I would guess it should be fine?? (someone with more experience may know).
What batteries are you using? Are you pushing their capabilities?
Thinking about it more, there could be a high resistance in a connector or solder joint somewhere between the battery and where the LEDs break out (this would have the same effect as resistance in the battery).
Motors Twitching
I am not sure why the motors would be twitching. Maybe try adding a small deadzone on your controller and see if it helps? (sorry for not being much help)
Mysterious clicking noise
When you plug in the removable link it may create a small spark between the contacts. This may be what you are hearing. Is it one click? Or a series of clicks?
Footnote: The spark is caused by the capacitors in your ESC charging up and drawing lots of current. You can get anti-spark connectors to stop it sparking (there are some XT60 ones, not sure about other connectors). In my experience, as long as you can't see a lot of black/dark areas in the contacts where it has sparked, you should be fine (if you see anything, you can always post a picture).
I hope this helps, just let me know if you want me to explain something better.
Thanks for the response Paul, from what you and others on facebook have said. It looks like the motors are drawing some currentQuote:
Originally Posted by PaulusSmallus
away from the LEDs but has they still function fully when the robot is still they'll be fine.
So after some thinking I felt that the light dimming needed to be addressed despite other roboteers on facebook saying it should be fine. And sure enough it was a simple problem and a simple solution. Basically the LEDs where under voltage due to running them in a series that required 19 volts and I'm running CSB on 16.8 volts at full charge from the 4cell lipo battery. In order to fix the issue I simply bought some resisters that could help run the LEDs in two parallel sets of 3 and after a afternoon of rewiring the LEDs CSB's lights barely dim and are far brighter now.
https://66.media.tumblr.com/9aafef30...f23o1_1280.jpg
Our LED strips on Elevate were making so much heat we thought they would set the batteries on fire!
Yikes.Quote:
Originally Posted by TechAUmNu
New Side panels plus new top and base plates have been cut. The new side panels aid in the robot's manoeuvrability when it's upside down.
https://66.media.tumblr.com/1c647886...f23o1_1280.jpg
New wheels made to have better purchase on the ground as the old ones used to bounce and cause wheel spin.
The hubs made by Pre-Cut services.
https://66.media.tumblr.com/9462b561...f23o2_1280.jpg
This is it. Coolspeedbot is ready for Extreme Robots Maidstone. Everything is packed and ready to load into the car tomorrow morning. Then a 1 hour drive to Maidstone.
https://66.media.tumblr.com/98f55fcf...f23o1_1280.jpg
With Extreme Robots Maidstone over I did a write up on my facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/teamcoolspe...261?__tn__=K-R
Attachment 8504
The plan now is to strip down CSB and upgrade it to improve so the drive, manoeuvrability and add more weight as I've got 5kg left over.
In the end it was more worth while retiring CSB and building a new version. Here is a preview of the CAD for Coolspeedbot 2.0. Going to try brushless drive and this will feature interchangeable lifter setups, a four-bar and a front hinge lifter. 2.0 is rework of a CAD idea I worked on last year.
https://66.media.tumblr.com/03be8724...f23o1_1280.png
Looks very nice.