Single toothed, ey? That's something you don't see on drum-type spinners often! Is Conker 3 going to be in the championships?
Printable View
Single toothed, ey? That's something you don't see on drum-type spinners often! Is Conker 3 going to be in the championships?
Awesome
There are so many dangerous bots this year :)
I sure hope so. We have had a small set back in making the parts but if I can be in the right places at the right times to get stuff done then yes, it will be there!Quote:
Originally Posted by Flag Captured
This all happened Saturday but this is the first of the bulkheads being machined for Conker 3.
Attachment 4395
As you can see, the Alumec 89 is machining beautifully: so shiny! In there is also the weapon which has been sandblasted to remove all the surface rust and grime and is now looking pretty sweet. The two shafts there are the front wheel supports, made from 10mm grade 5 titanium which was a total pain to machine, tap and die but we got there!
Attachment 4397
The top and bottom titanium plates now sandblasted.
Attachment 4396
The final thing to do now I have decided not to buy new batteries is the design of the internal part holder. I am going to 3D print it so each ESC and battery has its own padded space and I have proper cable routing.
Attachment 4394
If I can get this all done in time it should be worth all 21 major iterations and the hundreds of variations at each stage. It will have been a whole year in development as I started designing it around the end of February last year, quite the trek but will have been worth it!
Looking very nice
Attachment 4437
Binky is ready for the 2014 champs!
Just got to glue the power light in and recharge the batteries and she is good to go.
Can't wait for the draw on Monday!
Where's the paint?
Are you leaving the link hanging like that?
Yep, my Dad prefers it like that rather than a fresh coat of white paint, and I do too.
After I painted Binky the first time I didn't actually like the white. Now it is worn and damaged it looks more realistic. makes it look bigger somehow too.
Still think that links dodgy as hell
Agreed.
I have the new link cover in Yorkshire. A 460 mile round trip does make assembly difficult. Already running up the postal bill.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouldy
Just stick some duct tape over it :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouldy
That's what we did last time and it worked fine. And it does annoy me that people bury their links inside the robot where you cant get at them. If they were really out of control I would bet you couldn't get at 75% of the links on modern robots. At least ours are safe.Quote:
Originally Posted by overkill
Even with Binky's link, if Binky goes berserk, are you willing to pull it?
If a powerful machine goes out of control, let it run down the batteries, or park a housebot on top of it.
Can't park a house robot on a feather spinner, they are never run with heavyweights in the arena, but its an option at most other events.
As for me going in to get it, I would at least try with a hook on a stick because it is actually possible, but if we are going down that route doesn't it make the whole idea of a 'safety' link pointless?
I have lost control of Binky when she had an Orange RX inside her and I got interference from the nearby Wifi (and I think the armour was too thick for the RX to cope). I had her driving around with the disc on and then she went to full throttle on the weapon. I had someone go and get a window opening hook and I was able to pull the link with no problem. Try pulling the same trick with 720 or LS4.
If it does go crazy then if our main solution at an event is to wait then we could be there for an hour. I span Binky up yesterday and the disc took 2 minutes to spin down, that means I got most of the friction out of the system, ergo that could spin for 30 minutes at maximum speed while the motor only idled to maintain the speed.
720's link is easy to get, and doesn't go out of control. Very well behaved :)
Stick Tiny Toon in, that'll stop it. :P
Last time I saw a spinner go out of control was Dizzy Tilly, whose link was UNDER the robot, so they basically got Tiberius into the ring and jammed it into a corner to disable it. If they don't have a house robot, I am sure they can use something else to jam the weapon long enough to pull the link (yes Ls4's is a bit hid away, but with the weapon stopped you can still pull it).
I'm sure in the rules spinners have a set spin-down time don't they? I think that Binky exceeds that.
Mouldy: you've said that, now the RX will crash and it ends up spinning and gyro- dancing on its own :P
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouldy
Been through this before.Quote:
Originally Posted by grant_ploughbot
Also I'm happy with his link placement from a possible opponent's standpoint at least ;)
Time to buy a net gun:
http://www.codaenterprises.com/ULA%20Netgun_ret.jpg
You know you want to!
If a feather goes out of control, throwing in a heavy/housebot to shorten the waiting time and increase audience satisfaction is a viable option.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eventorizon
Safe, war machines, out of control. Where comes the word safety in the equation?Quote:
As for me going in to get it, I would at least try with a hook on a stick because it is actually possible, but if we are going down that route doesn't it make the whole idea of a 'safety' link pointless?
I'm not going to put a stick in the neighborhood of Valkiri 2's disk if that goes balls out. Let the batteries run out, the speedo will cut out if the voltage drops. But with 8000mAh, it will be a long wait. I rather would trow in Bullfrog over the side and have that deal with it.Quote:
I have lost control of Binky when she had an Orange RX inside her and I got interference from the nearby Wifi (and I think the armour was too thick for the RX to cope). I had her driving around with the disc on and then she went to full throttle on the weapon. I had someone go and get a window opening hook and I was able to pull the link with no problem. Try pulling the same trick with 720 or LS4.
11.1 Stopping TimeQuote:
If it does go crazy then if our main solution at an event is to wait then we could be there for an hour. I span Binky up yesterday and the disc took 2 minutes to spin down, that means I got most of the friction out of the system, ergo that could spin for 30 minutes at maximum speed while the motor only idled to maintain the speed.
The spinning element of any rotational weapon must spin down to a full stop in under 60 seconds.
Thank you harry, someone else is on my happy go lucky wave length this morning! But just to make sure I am printing a small cover, 6mm thick, solid fill ABS. Wont stop weapons but should at least lower the chance of a direct hit.Quote:
Originally Posted by harry hills
Attachment 4442
As Harry pointed out, Grant has his reasons for ignoring this rule. Strangely Binky has never had to sit and wait for its weapon to spin down even during a fight as its last hit has always stopped the disc/put it out the arena.Quote:
Originally Posted by maddox10
You bought a 3d printer then? I was more concerned that you had each wire for the link passing through a seperate drilled hole in the lid with no grommets etc
I was just raising a point. I was unaware they were ignoring the rules. Last thing I want is for you to get disqualified for it, that's all. Thinking of you Alex :).
Alex, didn't you print your own timing pulleys? How did that go?
I have put as much electrical tape as I can on the cable. Yes, I aught to use grommets but you have to buy them in box's of 500 off RS and the tape worked well last time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouldy
And no worries Dave, I know you meant well. That said I can't get an LED on the weapon side of the power system cos everything I have put in there has been cooked by the high voltage so I hope Binky wont get failed for that. Drive has an LED though so hopefully that is enough.
Excellently! Great profile, stupidly lightweight, more compact and much stronger that I expected. I am hoping to give C3 its first drive today so I will let everyone know how they cope.Quote:
Originally Posted by harry hills
Maplin do grommets in packs of 10. I would say you need an LED on the weapon side as well if they're 2 independent systems.
Thanks Alan! I will see what they have.Quote:
Originally Posted by blazerbotics
As for the LED on the weapon side, How do other people add an LED to a 42V system. Conker 3 will be even higher at 50.4V! Every resistor I have tried has burn out either immediately or after a couple of minutes.
[/QUOTE] Thirdly, as beetles are definitely on the up I have concepted not only a few beetle machines but a beetle arena...
The arena is around 400kg when built and is 2m x 2m x 1m with 10mm Polycarbonate on every side and a 4mm thick steel floor. Finally there is a 200mm tall 4mm thick kickboard round the edge and a door at either side of the arena. The arena would actually serve as both a Beetle arena but also as a featherweight testing and demonstration area. In the same way you can demo/test a single heavyweight in the RoboChallange arena you could demo/test a single feather in the Beetle arena. There are currently no rules about this and I feel that it is something that aught to be talked about and decided upole.[/QUOTE]
Sorry to go off topic slightly but why are all the beetle arenas pitless and have no out zones like over an arena wall like current arenas? It would make winning with my beetle flipper near impossible as ill just be flipping stuff for the fun of it whilst a spinners free to rip it up, thoughts?
Alex: 2, 24v LED's wired in series?
Calum: I agree there should be at least some manner of hazard, the arena does favour spinners a bit heavily ATM.
Its been so long since I did electronics... I forgot all about that. But wouldn't the first LED in the system just get burn out?Quote:
Originally Posted by razerdave
I use a regulator like this to run a LED off a high voltage pack: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/switch...ators/7398297/. Just add a small dropping resistor and maybe a capacitor on the output side. I think Recom makes a 1/2 amp regulator in a smaller pack.
Looks like that will work for Binky, since she max's at 42V. C3 may need a 2 stage reduction to get to the necessary 12V: One regulator then a resistor.Quote:
Originally Posted by overkill
Over 42 volts? Why not go straight to a Mr Fusion battery! :). Recom do another series up to 72V; search for R-78HB3.3-0.5
Ok, the current solution is this...
One of these in each robot so I have a 15V output from the weapon system...
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/switch...ators/0416846/
...then an in-line resistor to bring the voltage down to 12V.
Since I need 260mA of power to drive the LED's in Conker 3 I need a 12Ohm 2W resistor (15V Source Voltage, 12V LED Drop and 260mA current required to power all the LED's).
In Binky I will need 120mA of power so I will need a 27ohm 1W resistor (15V Source Voltage, 12V LED Drop and 120mA current required to power all the LED's)
Can anyone see an issue with that plan?
I found them :D Thanks for the heads up. Its much easier to do these things when you know what is out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by overkill
EDIT: Typical... they are out of stock :(