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im thinking that the pin failures might also be down to the grub screw method of locking the gearbox. When this is used, the ring gear will spin ever so slightly until the notches hit the screws. These slight but sudden stresses cant really do much good to anything that isnt effectively secured i.e. the pins.
In theory, could you silver solder the pins in?
Also, any tips for removing robo challenge wheels from the output thread when its been on there for years with a sh!t load of loctite?
In ours we always lock them so that the ring gear can't spin freely, for both the reason above and that that slight play means that your robot has a delay on every input that involves changing motor direction, so you lose some drive finesse.
edit: we have considered solder but thought that (naturally) putting a blob of weld on the other side, between the bearing and the pin holder plate (there's a mm or two of space there) would be better still. That was going to be our fix for the champs but it's inherently unreliable, as it'll just move the point of failure to probably the gears themselves, so we opted to lose some power for the sake of reliability and go to 18v motors.
edit2: a decent set of these slim enough to get between the wheel and the bulkhead to grip the shaft works for us. Sometimes you need to clamp the wheel too, though a pair of gloves and some welly usually does it.
that could work, with mine, as there a very tight fit, im super gluing it as it dosent warp or have any extra stress on the gear box
well ive now got two of the problems sorted. The GR02s will be ordered shortly and it was the thermal protection kicking in that caused it to breakdown. i ran the bot at full throttle in various directions for 3mins with no visible slowdown as before.
only issue now is the mixing but ill post that in the main forum.