-
I recently fixed a TZ for someone where the main inductor for the BEC had come off the board due to excessive forces; TZs are designed for planes not fighting. My thought to battle harden them would just be to cover the signal side of the board with hot glue to keep everything in place and keep swarf out... But a separate BEC might not be a bad idea. Not using it for anything other than the RX so linear regulator putting out 0.5A @ 5v would be plenty enough...
Also, I use Lemons in all my robots from nanoweights to my Heavyweight and have never had one die in a robot (had a few dead from the factory and another few die whilst soldering them up, but I've bought over 50 so far so it's actually a fairly low failure rate... at ~£3 each it's not a huge issue)
-
I dipped ours in plastidip to keep the parts in place.
-
Here's the picture of their undersides, I threw in an R710 on the left (the rest are R620s).
http://i.imgur.com/7sPA3ot.jpg
You can see the blown track in the centre near the pin headers on both R620s. It may also be wroth noting that the bottoms are almost identical, same parts, same idents just the R710 has more board area.
I'm not too sure what to do now. I need to mix 2 channels to control the motors and thus the movement but the Dx5i mixes so that left to right are forwards and backwards which is unworkable. I could shell out £10 for a new GWS Mixer or £10 for a Trinket micro-controller with a custom mixer firmware or buy a much more intelligent TX which can do it internally. I'm planning on getting into quadcopters so I will need a more intelligent TX eventually, but its a lot to ask for right now.
The rest of the robot wise:
- front arm of the lifter is now milled out of a solid block of aluminium, it's awesome!
- LED 'bling' is programmed, waiting on a mini micro-controller to run it as well as fitting it
- I have some anti-spark XT-90-S connectors and am awaiting a Midi Fuse & holder to see how it could replace my Maxifuse arrangement. This will stop arcing/sparking.
- I'm looking into my over complicated electronic fuse to see if it's a terrible idea or just a weird one.
- I still need to grind down the front lip of the robot so it's thinner.
- I need to ship the Hardox parts off for powder coating
- I need to fight in a competition
Nearly there...
-
Got it all working quite nicely on Sunday and even got a video of it!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKpjv4IiSTc
(Sorry about the vertical video, the camera man has been mocked)
I think my driving needs a bit of work and I'm finding having the lifter on the rudder stick a bit awkward to control.
The tasks remaining are:
- Figure out a mounting solution for the Midi fuse and XT-90-S
- Get testing the electronic fuse
- Finish mounting the electronics
- Ship the harddox parts off for powder coating
The next big problem is when's the next featherweight competition?
-
looks strong, nicely done
-
Looking very good! Lifter is a little on the slow side but that's it really, maybe slanting the sides if you plan on going against spinners.
Given you have the lifter to control, I would go with single stick steering and then spend time practising your driving, that way you are not trying to raise the lifter and occidentally turn out from under your opponent
-
Best new feather I've seen in a long time. Why powder coating though?
-
Agreed, one of the nicest new feathers I've seen. It looks like you've been doing this for years. Well done! Look forward to seeing it in person sometime.
-
The next FW 'competition' I believe is Gadget Show Live 2016, the full combat marathon of an event over 4 days! But there are regular HW events that you can attend with your FW and test it out in the melee's they have between HW fights. This is a good way of finding flaws in the designs so you can iron them out before you get to the champs next year.
-
Next for us is the GRA event. The German competiton. It's full combat.
Saturday is comp. Sunday is games and testing after repairs.
