I had a watch of the livestream on the EXR Facebook page and yeah, without zooming in, it is hard to tell what was going on half of the time.
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I had a watch of the livestream on the EXR Facebook page and yeah, without zooming in, it is hard to tell what was going on half of the time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by voorsk
That as much we could see at some points XD
So the post mortem has been done.
The top panel with the slot is bent where Blunt Force Trauma hit it. The original top panel has a few more dings in it but nothing catastrophic. The front bits of the side panels are missing on both sides where Drumroll presumably hit and there is a gash in the panel where Binky scored a direct hit and I think it was that what took the side panel off. Amazingly, the rear panel has come out of it unscathed, a bit more dirty perhaps but nothing a scouring pad couldn't fix.
The wheel on the side which came off looks very poorly but is structurally intact. The rubber needs gluing and screwing in place but that isn't a big job in of itself. Definitely needs a new wheel hub though. The motor which was soldered back to life is still running as is the other motor. In fact, all the drive electrics are still running. The soldered motor is too high up in the shell which explains all the wobbliness. Incredibly, I think the motor shafts themselves are still straight.
The wings are bent, as are the screws holding them in. The tail has come loose and the front and top crossmembers holding the robot together have cracked in weird and wonderful ways plus the castor wheel is loose.
In short, the list of things needed are:
- A new wheel hub
- 2x new wings
- New crossmembers
- A new drive motor
As for the weapon, the motor blew itself apart during the "featherweight fun times" after show match and the mount for that has fallen apart along with the locking pin having sheared in the hub.
None of this is insurmountable, just to get moving under its own steam is going to cost very little (only the £30 for a new crossmember and a wheel hub, less if I can find a second block to act as a crossmember) but it will require a full disassemble/clean/fix/reassemble. However, I do want to concentrate on Kaizen built and getting The Honey Badger 3 ready (been specifying motors and such today) so in short, The Honey Badger 2 is fixable but requires a fair bit of time which I might not have.
It may surface again ;)
"Gentlemen, we can rebuild him. We have the technology. We have the capability" :rofl:
Since the last post, I've removed all the electrics/motors/batteries etc of The Honey Badger 2 and left with a rather sad looking shell. As I have Kaizen to worry about along with the upcoming FW championships, I need to get The Honey Badger 3 moving so I've made a decision to transplant the current brushed setup from 2 to 3 and then replace it all with the fully brushless setup later on - I have my eyes on some KEDA 56-63 outrunners as drive motors which look very tasty (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/kd-53-20...ner-195kv.html). Once at the stage of being fully brushless, I'll put all the brushed stuff back into The Honey Badger 2.
So here is the design as promised. A lot of this is subject to change (without reason - a Battlebots reference there) but this is what I want it to look like.
Attachment 8025
(To be really in keeping, it was drawn on the back of the Robot Wars application I wrote for Kaizen - :P)
Certainly going to be wider than The Honey Badger 2 at any rate, probably about as high as Neophyte for context. The weapon on the back was meant to be a saw but to be honest, anything that rotates can go there or, as the annotation suggests, a spear for non-spinner events.
I had some of the 15mm panelling arrive last night but unfortunately, muggins here screwed up and ordered panels that were too short by about 100mm. That is OK though, they can form part of a internal double deck structure inside the main body so that I do have more usable space in there (I could do that with panels I have now to be honest but it being wider means just that little bit more room). Below is what the main body kinda looks like:
Attachment 8026
So the idea is that I'll mount the speed controllers and the motors on the lower deck and then have the batteries/fuse/link on the top deck so I can use all of the 100mm wide space available and have the two 50mm high rails underneath which the top deck can mount to so the normal serviceable stuff can be accessed much easier.
Provided the new set of panels work, I might have something driving by next week ;)
Reminds we somewhat of Tanto, good luck with it!
I didn't know which robot got torn up initially, only when the remenants were put in the loading pen I realised. Felt really sorry for you, was convinced it was a write-off. Yet you made it into the next battle!
An interesting looking design, wasn't neophyte quite short? Are you aiming for invertable? Being honest it doesn't look that much wider than 2.0, seems it's going to be a compact little thing and 15mm!? Damn son.
Going to be following quite closely, I can't wait to see the brushless drive take shape, it's going to be pretty nippy with those motors anyway..
When is the FW championship? What sort of timescale do you have?
Sorry, question overload :?
Neophyte was a huge bot for a feather. I would guess 750mm wide 400-500mm long and 250mm high with the lifter down.
I didn't realise it was so wide in all honesty, maybe that's why it looked quite short... I'll get my coat...
Yeah its electronics looks really small in itQuote:
Originally Posted by Retroman
Quite a few did to be honest, myself included for a moment. ;)Quote:
I didn't know which robot got torn up initially, only when the remenants were put in the loading pen I realised. Felt really sorry for you, was convinced it was a write-off. Yet you made it into the next battle!
As noted, Neophyte is bigger than your typical feather - The Honey Badger 2 in its widest incarnation was 510mm wide. The bodywork on The Honey Badger 3 is 480mm wide plus whatever the wheels are going to be but it is the plough that is the widest point, likely to clock in at 600mm wide, depending on what I end up using for that. I am indeed aiming for invertible, trying to get hold of some specialist RC wheels again that should fit the bill nicely.Quote:
An interesting looking design, wasn't neophyte quite short? Are you aiming for invertable? Being honest it doesn't look that much wider than 2.0, seems it's going to be a compact little thing and 15mm!? Damn son.
Yeah, the main bodywork is 450x100mm so very compact, hence the double deck thing. It'll make more sense when I've got that bit built.
Even with the Gimson motors, it is going to be fast. With the KEDA motors, it is probably not going to be substantially faster owing to a low Kv rating but it is unlikely to be stopped in a hurry. The brushed motors (775 type) give out about 215W per side, the KEDA motors are rated for around 1500W. The motors have been ordered anyway.Quote:
Going to be following quite closely, I can't wait to see the brushless drive take shape, it's going to be pretty nippy with those motors anyway..
Late August I believe but the signups have not been posted yet. As far as timescale goes, if I get it rolling next week, I am on course to have something rolling by EXR Portsmouth as a test day out (I'll only be going for a day). It probably won't have a weapon by then (the spear I might have ready) but the major construction work will have been completed by then.Quote:
When is the FW championship? What sort of timescale do you have?
Wider than that surely? The Honey Badger 2.2 was 490mm wide and the video I have from the first melee (when Neophyte was upside down) completely covers the Badger at one stage. However, the Badger is taller than Neophyte I think with the lifter down - The main body of the Badger is 230mm high.Quote:
Neophyte was a huge bot for a feather. I would guess 750mm wide 400-500mm long and 250mm high with the lifter down.
For those who are curious Neophyte's chassis (excluding the lifter arm) is 650x450x150mm. Once you factor in the lifter & wheels it becomes 770x650x200mm. Will probably look at cutting it down a little before the next event. Either way if nothing else I'm glad it has become the benchmark for the size of featherweights.
Also assuming the featherweight championships are being held at the Insomnia festival again then they will be at the NEC in Birmingham on 24th-27th August.
Damn i was not too far off, did you say your where going to Grantham? it is no spinner
Should be at Grantham as long as all goes as planned. Hopefully should get some proper driving practice in.
After the ordering mishap, the new, longer panels arrived and for your viewing pleasure...
Attachment 8050
Tada! A misaligned box though it is out only by 1mm on one panel so I'll take what I can get. Weird to think that that box is pretty much the main body of The Honey Badger 3 when compared to the vastness of the predecessor but it is a less is more approach here. Obviously, the screw pilot holes will need to be deepened + countersunk with at least 8 more needing to be added for strength.
The body still needs motor end caps on each end, the rails for the second deck to sit on and the fancy pants motors putting in but I put in the old motors and ESCs as a test to see what it looks like.
Attachment 8051
You can't really see where the ESCs are but it is tight, they are right in front of the motors. The wooden jig underneath I placed a little deliberately to get a mock view of how long the rails need to be. The angle of the photo betrays this but the rails are out further at the back than they are at the front. When the new motors arrive, the wheels will need to be changed as the motors are taller than these by about 20 mm (which is also why the end caps haven't been done yet) but in theory, I could tape+wire this together now and see how it looks when moving.
Oh, and as an aside, the LEDs I ordered for Manchester turned up today! Yay, only 2 weeks late!
More good news, the brushless motors turned up today. It is a bit smaller in length than a 775 motor but significantly wider.
Attachment 8054
They definitely feel like they mean business, certainly weight 500g a piece but I now need to consider how to get the power to the wheels. I think a toothed belt drive might work here as a "simple" solution but I've never made a powered shaft like this, nor have I ever secured a shaft to a plate.
Am I right in thinking the "quick and dirty" solution is to get a shaft, two HDPE plates, drill a hole in both of them, run the shaft through those holes and then use a collar on either side to hold it in place, ending up with 4x collars? I guess for the pulleys, I'd need to flat off a little section of the shaft and then use a grub screw (or drill the shaft completely and bolt the pulley in place) to hold it in place? I guess the speed means a bearing in the 10mm thick plates might be needed here?
Alternatively, I suppose 2x pillow block bearings and drifting the shaft through them might be the more robust solution?
Just catching up on your build and adventures in Manchester. Took ages so much happened and so many comments.
It was a shame how hard you got hit, when you are the most prolific contributer to these pages.
Looking forward to seeing V3.
any reason why you can't use the gearboxes from v2 ? or are you trying to leave them intact ?
Thanks, these things happen and it isn't like I've not rebuilt The Honey Badger 2 in a rush before :PQuote:
Just catching up on your build and adventures in Manchester. Took ages so much happened and so many comments.
It was a shame how hard you got hit, when you are the most prolific contributer to these pages.
Looking forward to seeing V3.
The shaft on a 775 motor is 5mm, these bad boys are 8mm. I guess I could try and find a 9 tooth gear that goes on a 8mm shaft (not sure there is TBH) and then fashion up an adapter plate if the motor mounting holes don't fit, which is likely.Quote:
any reason why you can't use the gearboxes from v2 ? or are you trying to leave them intact ?
according to hobbyking it says it 8mm. You could try and find someone who is willing to turn it down to 5mm but I would make a custom gearbox similar to what you find in a speed 900 gear system (hardwired II)
Photo from hardwired II (Matt Smith)
Attachment 8055
I was about to say, I've taken the Gimson gearbox apart on the poorly motor and I think I might be able to use the existing shaft (if I can bore out the pinion gear to 8mm) and lose a single stage of the gearbox. Once that is done, the extended shaft fits in the gearbox with the adapter plate to the 775 motor only needing a little bore out to make it fit onto the motor.
My next engineering challenge then :P
Do you mean the brushless motor I am using?Quote:
according to hobbyking it says it 8mm.
Also, I can't count, it is a 18 tooth gear, not a 9. In which case, according to gearsandsprockets.co.uk, I can get a MOD 1 18T to fit on a 8mm shaft. It definitely is promising though.
Attachment 8056
I've been using the gearboxes off the very Gimson motors you've been using with 4248 outrunners. Had to find a suitable pinion, but it mated pretty much straight on
Sounds promising then. As described above, it isn't quite as straightforward fit with this motor but I've ordered a couple of pinion gears so I might have it running on these motors fairly soon.
Well... one of them is kind of working...
https://youtu.be/U-cHy3PjPwI
Perhaps if anyone could advise me as to why the motor is acting the way they are, I'd be most grateful :)
Have I just replied to this same issue on Facebook?
I wouldn't have thought so, I don't have a Facebook account of any variety.
EDIT: Looking at a video which is kind of similar, I think I have a bad connection somewhere, which is likely given how pants my soldering is (despite doing plenty of this at Manchester with Chris from ARC Robotics :P). Will dig further.
These look like the RedBrick 125A ESCs. You mention using a different hex file, is this labelled rb70a3?
They are 100A v2 Redbricks, so using the rb70a2.hex file.I need to figure out how to use the kkmulticopter tool to reprogram it to give me reverse. I know it is a boolean switch from 0 to 1 but I can't figure out (yet) how to get the code to load.
Ah, OK. Do you get the three audible beeps at different frequencies on powering up the ESC? I couldn't really hear in the video. If you only get two, the one phase is missing and that's the difference in V2/V3 pinout. I had the same at first on the 125A.
I get 3 beeps when the power is turned on and signal is acquired.
Well, I think I have achieved ESC programming zen, I've managed to get the ESC to respond to the elevon channel in both directions of travel rather than just the throttle channel. Just need to sort out my dodgy wiring and then I can see if it works properly. If it does, well I'll be enormously chuffed.
UPDATE: Spoke too soon. The ESC coding need a bit of fine tuning. When the motor does decide it has a good enough connection, it constantly spins in one direction but is responding to input so
Had a good read through this, excellent work and nice to see it come together, plenty of ideas/encouragement for a 100% rookie like me :)
Taken advantage of the weather today and been cutting out the panels for The Honey Badger 3. Main things done are the holes for the rails that the weaponry and the defensive plate will sit on and motor plates cut out. I still cannot cut straight for toffee though :P
Attachment 8062
You'll note the plate in the middle of the rails, that is where the battery will sit. You'll also note that the original Gimson motors are in place rather than the brushless drive. The pinion gears arrived but they are too big for the space available in the gearbox. I suspect this would have worked with a 5mm shaft motor (as noted previously) but time is against me here so I've gone back to the brushed setup. I'll be recycling the brushless motors into another robot but I've yet to decide on what yet.
I am going to call it, I am not going to make it to EXR Portsmouth with this. The bandaged up motor's wiring came apart again and I've no suitable wheels to mount into this plus it needs a complete rewire. EXR Guildford is the next one after Portsmouth so I'll know closer to the time.
Good good, happy to answer any questions and such here or at an event - we all had to start somewhere :D. Hopefully I'll have this running properly before RL Herne Bay & Grantham.Quote:
Had a good read through this, excellent work and nice to see it come together, plenty of ideas/encouragement for a 100% rookie like me http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/imag...icon_smile.gif
The rails are now in position, secured with M5 bolts. That was more fiddly that I thought it was going to be but hey, they are in now. Time permitting, I'll replace these with a plastic variant but these will do for now. The front scoop (on the longer section) will hide the hole for the link, the rear rails will need a bit more finesse to house the weaponry.
Attachment 8105
Also remade the wiring loom. It needs a separate branch for the weapon ESC but considering the patchwork quilt that the old wiring loom was, this is a vast improvement, especially know that I know how to solder properly. ;) I'll need to modify the rails a little to include grooves for the wiring to go over but otherwise, all is well. When I get paid, I'll be getting a replacement motor and a set of wheels.
Attachment 8106
That wiring loom is very neat :) looks like it's coming together nicely!
Looking good, shame you went able to make it to Portsmouth. I took inspiration frim your wiring loom to build mine this morning so was able to compete in the afternoon. Thank you for the inspiration!
Many thanks, I thought it was rather good as well considering it was done in a room with light only from a desklamp on the carpet of my office. ;) I should be on course for EXR Guildford, depending on how much time I can commit to The Honey Badger 3. Morale of the tale - don't have 4 robots in build/repair simultaneously. :P
Tried mounting the loom in the robot, nearly fits but the removable link is too long so I'll need to cut it down to fit. New motor + wheels next week.
The motor arrived today so been busy mounting those into the robot and getting the wiring into the robot. If I was doing this again, I'll make the body slightly longer than 100mm, the wiring loom looks very... compressed ;) With the motor here, I got the wiring into the robot and a deck plate secured over the rails to make a void for the removable link and fuses. The batteries will sit on top of that.
To show how I got the motor mounted into the robot, I had already drilled a 10mm hole for the shaft but needed to work out where to drill the holes for the motor mount. So I got some flange screws, mounted them in as far as I can so they are lower than the output shaft, got some blu tack on the panel over the hole and pushed the motor as square as I could into the hole.
Attachment 8117
This leaves an impression in the blu tack when the motor is carefully removed. I then got a small crosshead screwdriver and smacked that through the centre of the blu tack
Attachment 8118
Once done, I pulled the blu tack away and there are 4 marks on the panel, ready to drill (I used a 5mm drill bit here).
Attachment 8119
And here is a finished article. The only thing I need to do is add some shakeproof washers and something for the motor to sit on at the rear but the motors are now attached.
Attachment 8120
I've then wired up the robot and now it is running, if not moving. The wheels are en-route so it might be running by the end of the week. Next thing is to mount the hubs onto the wheels, wheels onto the motors and build the front wedge. If I have time before EXR Guildford. work out what to put at the rear. Getting there though.
Attachment 8116
The wheels have arrived but TBH, now they are on there, I am not really happy with them so I may end up changing these. Anyway, drilled some grub holes into the hub they have, plopped them on and although the controls are all a bit back to front, it is now moving...
https://youtu.be/T0jgm_RfuXQ
...briefly. ;) I am possibly going to end up building some custom HDPE hubs for these, remove the hubs on the wheels that are there and then bolt them onto the hub.
That looks very tight in there indeed!
The little 'oops' made that for me, so understated...
Good to see some good progress being made on it, seems you've got another quick little 'bot on your hands.