i have a CAD of what i want.
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i have a CAD of what i want.
DO NOT REMOVE THE HEATSINK FROM A VANTEC
From the purely practical side it would be a pain in the arse as it is attached with a good few dozen bolts and secondly it will dramatically reduce the current handling capability of the controller. I also wouldn't advise a vantec as your first speed controller as they are relatively delicate or rather they don't handle being connected up wrong well
O and the issue on tax is a bit of a mute point as you are paying tax on everything you buy in the UK anyway
edit:Quote:
Originally Posted by archie2000
cheers dave botbitz it is (hopefully)
thanks dave and gary.
if i dont get the botbitz over the summer holiday i will hopefully get them for xmas
Botbitz tz85a's back in stock as of yesterday. I've just ordered another two.
Also.... Why are people suggesting this kid buys standard drills? Save your self hassle.. Buy gimpsons with wheels attached.... Or you won't know how to mount your motors.
Shopping list;
2 off botbitz tz85a's
4 off gimpsons With wheels.
Buy these parts... When they arrive, ask questions later.
Archie likes to do things on the cheap side, hence the recommendation of standard drills.
I think drills were being suggested (by myself included) because they're cheap as chips and they represent practical options, over bazillion watt gearbox combos or custom speed 900 setups. Plus, most if not all of use here have experience with them.Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_turbulence
By all means use Gimsons, though drills aren't exactly hard to mount. It is true that a Gimson's gearbox is likely to last longer, but from what I gather, you intend to replace the motors immediately anyway. :lol:
im going to try and make mounts that look like gimson mounts for the drill motors.
thanks for the concern dave.m but i think i can make mounts for myself (otherwise i will learn nothing)
you know me too well dave.w :lol:
Could be, but with Dave's suggestion it's plug and play concerning driivetrain. Avoids buying a lot of tools straigth away.Quote:
Originally Posted by razerdave
Otherwise you could end up like some roboteers, with a full workshop , costing 1000's...
my dad has lots of experience with these things and has 3 rooms in the celar full of bits i dont know what they do.
i doubt i will struggle with armour building or mounts as the 'workshop' already has cost quite a bit probarbly
i couldnt find any car seat actuators on ebay.
would a gimson spare motor do? http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/HRS550_ ... motor.html
or should i buy a prebuilt gr01 (the actuators arent exactly on my budget but if i have cash left a GR01 on some M12 threaded rod actuator would be nice and powerful i suppose
Like the drill motors, I doubt the Gimson motor would fit into that seat actuator. I'd save up for a Gimson ready built actuator TBH, they're powerful and much less hassle.
do the gimson actuators use GR-01s in them?
i will only have an actuator if i have money left when its finished.
it will be more fun.
u have to search under (seat motor) to get the best results, the more common 1s on ebay are from ford mondeo
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-mondeo-e ... 500wt_1169
cheers peter,
they're not actually 500watt are they?
that's some powerful lifter.
i doubt there 500watt but i know they should be able to lift a featherweight because mine can lift 24kg probably a bit more but it starts to straggle at the 24kg mark
24kg that neerly the weight of a bag of cement!
if the mechanism is built right it should be able to.lift a human (not very high/fast)
Define lifting a human :). I am around the 105/110kg mark and a FW size actuator wouldn't lift me regards of the mech.
It only needs to lift a FW and they will do that easily. Try and find a video of Mr Happy the FW for a comparison.
u only have to get them a few mm off the ground to stop them going anywhere, and mine couldn't lift a human it can hold 1 without breaking
here is a cheap actuator if u want 1 just found it on ebay, should lift 75kg on the tip
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Linear-actuat ... 500wt_1169
If you want a powerful actuator that's going to lift something quickly you could take a look at the Duff Norton ones, we have two one for sale in the 'For Sale' thread :)
viewtopic.php?p=132782#p132782
As used in Force X, also curiously the first robot to use (and 'discover') the 35w Bosch Motors - if only I was on commision, the originals in Force X are still going strong (albeit with a brass gear to replace the naff plastic one that will fail)
ok a quick kind of update.
the stage i am at with the robot is my mum says she will let me have it if I am sure i know everything (pros and cons) of everything.
which i am thrilled with as normally the only answer is no.
so my set-up will be.
escheap85s
2/4 drills
i need advice on batteries and wheels as my budget isnt huge and i want someting usable in v2 of the bot.
6mm polycarb
giant cod tx and rx
sound good?
my mum found a 3/4mm polycarb box that looks great for an antweight. if not i will get some silicon seal and stick my fish in from the pond in the winter:)
also my mum found out at work that one of her workmates friends runs a scrap metal yard. yay
so i have found the advantages of the botbitz on that thread but are there anything esle convincing.
thanks
going to want more than 6mm polycarb
id say 6mm is perfectly fine both for base and armour
bearing in mind this robot.will be replaced by v2 by the champs
so no spinners
i have got my Argos drills now
wahoo.
what will i need to do to them?
are there any tutorials of how to do this as i have a very bad reputation of taking rings to bits and it not working.
thanks
i have found ellis's tutorial.
thanks
ok so now i have my motors.
they still have the torque changer bit on them which i think will be fine on max torque.
tomorrow i will start on the mounts (i have found some oak yay)
but i also have an old bosch drill that is 14.4v
what i thaught is that i can run the 12v argos drills off 14.4v so theyre nice and fast.
oly problem is that they dont hold charge.
is there a way i cam cycle them so they will hold better charge (should i store them in the fridge?)
oh yeah and it will all be made from 9-18mm plywood (because we have loads left) and a pine, oak and aluminium angle pieces which im sure will be almost overkill (if you doubt me wait till its built:))
thanks
archie
:lol:
can't tell if trolling....
trolling?
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index ... 535AAMpX69
i do as you say haz hmm.
do you want a picture?
you should be able to remove that torque limiter they normally have 2 screws, undo them then remove the spring and lock the gearbox using grub screws - the tutorial you mentioned im sure will cover this in more detail
the batteries if your talking about the drill batteries those wont be much good but if they are new should hold they charge (bearing in mind they will be 1200mah cells, ie not very high in robot uses)
if you have an itelligent charger then you could try and cycle them but it probably wont do much for them, upgrade now and save hassle later......and dont put them in the fridge.........never ever heard that idea before
got that from an old robot book:)
but it should be ok with the torque thing on will it?
It's harder to mount the motors without removing it and you won't get the full power from the motors with them on.
I think the fridge thing is for storing certain batteries if your bit using them for ages to stop them losing their capacity.
If you're overvolting, even by a little, and you slam the throttle on, it's possible you'll make the torque things just slip. They're pretty simple to deal with. They don't have to be grub screws; any 5mm screw will do.
As for the drill batteries, you may know we went that route and whilst they worked, they were far from great. The power to weight and size ratio is pretty bad, in truth. They got incredibly hot, each cell actually only took about 1Ah, and their power output was poor. Something like this will save a lot of hassle: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-3700mAh-S ... 474wt_1396, and for the build quality and cost, it's worth it.
That pack can put out 30amps, fine for 2 drills, pushing it for 4. If the first stage of gears in your drills are plastic I wouldn't particularly recommend overvolting or making masses of current available to them anyway, i.e., with more powerful batteries. Chances are they'll strip.
I managed too strip metal gears in a drill at 18v, but you could be ok at 14.4
You stripped metal gears in a drill gearbox? I call BS on that
We quite badly damaged several metal gears in drill gearboxes whilst in the UK.
Edit: http://s1088.photobucket.com/albums/i32 ... 012402.jpg
I've done the same, a few teeth on each gear tend to get chipped off rather than stripping the whole thing. In the last stage of course, and in overvolted drills.
Exact same happened too me, few teeth broke. Maybe stripping the gear wasnt the beat word but it happened
what do i do now?
do the screws go where the bearings were or is it in the top?
thanks