It would rip that ramp off
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It would rip that ramp off
I am going to use the Sheet Metal function in Solidworks which is something I haven't used before. It will have angled edges to the blade to deflect attacks, I just want to do it properly rather than fumbling it with other steps.
Even still, the bars are 10mm Titanium, the blade and supports are 5mm Ti and the bulkheads total 52mm in thickness. It wouldn't do it any good, probably twist the 5mm welded supports, but I doubt even NST could rip it off in one hit.
It's your machine.....
New Receivers have arrived along with the new 80A 50V SSR for conker's weapon system.
Probably going to be taking Binky and Conker II to Dork-Bot Bristol next tuesday, by request of one of my lecturers, so if anyone is interested you can come and get a look before it stops being all shiny and white.
And Gary, the sheet metal function is proving a little tricky but this is what I am aiming for...
[attachment=0:383233wp]Conker 3.5.2-1.jpg[/attachment:383233wp]
It just keeps looking more and more like K2.
Can the little tabs on the scoop's surface be removed? They'd be absolute heaven for any horizontal to eat up.
I thought so to but K2 doesn't have any issues. They only stick up by 5mm anyway and will have welds along the edges so they should, fingers crossed, be ok.
Today has been a mixed day.
The new receiver has completely solved the signal issues I have been having with Binky so I decided to do some tests with the disc at full speed.
The test went well. The disc tends to grind rather then hack at full speed but when I slammd into the cooker it tore through all 4 layers of steel, about 7mm total, right to the oven area in the middle with no problems and still tossed the 360 in the air.
[attachment=2:2y178wef]20130316_135326.jpg[/attachment:2y178wef]
However what I didn't notice until I smelt it was that the wires for the drive Lipo had got trapped between the armour and the new aluminium holder for the battery. The vibration of the disc caused the edge of the holder to act like a saw and cut to the wire inside shorting the lipo. At the point of contact it also burned against the outside of the lipo right down to the plastic covers around each cell.
[attachment=1:2y178wef]20130316_140558.jpg[/attachment:2y178wef]
[attachment=0:2y178wef]20130316_140617.jpg[/attachment:2y178wef]
I have no idea if it is still safe to use. It didn't feel overly hot when it came out but I would be willing to bet it would probably blow if I charged it again.
EDIT: Pictures Embedded
Can't see the pictures are they are facebook linked.
I wouldn't risk using the lipo again. Get a fresh one and learn the lesson.
Does anyone have any info on the talked about 'Active Weapon' rule that people have considered imposing? Will it be coming into effect any time soon or is still to controversial to be acted upon?
I believe it's still to be acted on, but it may well pop up before long. I'd have a method of avoiding it if possible, just in case.
Well the the AGM was only a few weeks ago and it hasn't been imposed so your good for another year!
But EOs can decide what they want to happen at their events.
The active weapon rule is something that James and I were pushing quite hard for. It wasn't to ban all pusher's, but to allow them and add an incentive to build an active weapon by capping the weight limit on non weaponed robot's.
For example, 11-12kg for a non active weapon, and the full weight limit for an active weapon. We feel that this shouldn't have any ill effect on pusher's in general as it's extremely easy to build a very very good pusher in under 10kg with hardox armour, which still leaves a good entry point for beginner's.
As expected with an AGM, people will always vote for more weight and fewer restrictions. It is something that we may impose for our championships in the future though.
That is a really good solution to that issue, I would vote for that!
Both out machines are spinners so we cant enter them into any other events. We wanted to do a pusher driven by some of the top top Banebots motors but now we might have to change it.
Though as we have a flipper in the works, Conker 3 and a few other ideas I doubt we will ever have to worry but its nice to know. Thanks Grant
We have managed to to a more thorough investigation on the battery that was shorted out during Binky's test a few weeks back.
On closer inspection the burn marks are just on the 0.5mm aluminium plate which is bonded to the side of the pack. The cell next to it is apparently unscathed.
We did a balance charge outside on the grass with no issues, it charged as we expected in the normal time for 1C at that discharge level.
We have ordered another, slightly smaller battery, to replace it but would the EO's let up use the pack if they inspected it themselves or is the risk still to great?
I'll happily have a look over the pack for you and give it a yes or no, but by the sounds of things it should be OK!
Thanks Grant. I will let you know how tomorrows tests go. By dad has yet to drive Binky, so he has 6 days to learn! Hopefully the battery will be able to take mock combat drills.
You didn't turn up for the AGM though. That's not very hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by grant_ploughbot
Surely a weapon is its own reward as it allows the accrual of more damage points?Quote:
It wasn't to ban all pusher's, but to allow them and add an incentive to build an active weapon by capping the weight limit on non weaponed robot's.
Where would you stand on people who'd lost their weapons, even prior to the first fight? Structure for a decent flipper or spinner is heavy & quite integral.
We didn't attend the AGM because we had filming for 2 projects on the same day.
Were not looking at banning them at all - you can make a hardox brick in 8kg - thats plenty of structural support!
I'm all for it. Box on box fights are dull
Agreed- maybe the place for this would be in general... Not in a build diary :)
Thanks David, I wondered what was going on :?
Is this wiring diagram for a solid state relay and a battle switch correct, I made this last year but I cant remember if its right or not... I think the polarity of the red and yellow wires on the low voltage input are the wrong way round.
Attachment 3608
On Binky how did you guys attach the pulley to the disk and still keep the sides flush, so you could put thrust bearings between them and the bulkheads?
The Pulley is attached to the shaft through a one way bearing which is keyed in to both the shaft & pulley. The shaft spins in bearings mounted into the disc supports. The Disc is bolted to a pair of spacers/supports which grip the shaft with a pair of grub screws. 2mm thrust bearings then go between the Bulkhead and the pulley, the pulley and the disc supports then finally the support on the other side of the disc and the second bulkhead.
I will get a pic up at some point if I can cos that reads back like a mess.
Haha, a picture would be great! I'm sure what you said makes sense but struggling to visualise...
Quick question, I have just got my hands on a 1.2m square, 1.2mm thick sheet of Ti10 from uni biut Ti10 is coming up blank in all my google searches. There is a load of stuff stamped across it repeatedly but Its not with me atm but I will find out what it says!
So can someone tell me what Ti 10 is?
EDIT: Got my answer its grade 5 titanium, but an obscure aero grade.
What do people think... on Conker 3 should I drop the 4WD in order to optimise the weapon or keep it cos that's the style of the machine? Conker 1 & 2 had all the weight in the wrong place. If I drop the 4WD then I could take the drisk up to 4 or even 4.5kg but then I might as well be building a drum bot like 720. As cool as C3 looks at the moment its still not optimised for combat unlike Binky or NST or 720. Thoughts?
would you be able to save weight by dropping 2 motors and use pulleys to drive the other 2 wheels then you could make it more compact
You can have both worlds. I'd say certainly drop the 4 motors. It's not necessary unless your primary purpose is to push. Cobalt was the perfect example of 2 motors and 2 wheels outdoing the competition, though, and that was down to good design. If the wheels are "in the middle" of the machine, à la Cobalt, I imagine you can also sort of fake the steadiness of 4WD through ESCs with breaking and/or a gyro. I can see that being worth pursuing if you still want to be ahead of most competition in terms of drive.
Sorry to rip a hole in your example Ellis, but Cobalt was 4WD ;)
EDIT: Just to add to the discussion, 2WD gives a touch more manoeuverability, which can be highly advantageous for spinners. Unless you want to have a solid back-up should the spinning weapon fail, 4WD is usually unnecessary.
C3 has 2 of the most powerful Banebots motors for drive and gets 4WD by running belts to the front (I should put a picture up)... hang on...
Attachment 3638
What will change is the motor in the pic is a HK50 but its going down to a HK 40, and the top panel is 1.2mm Ti 5 not polycarb as in the pic.
Drive is 2x P60 4:1 Gearboxes with RS775 18V motors running of a 6S 2.65 AH lipo, weapon is a 3.5kg drum off a HK 4035 800kv running on 10S through a Scorpion commander 50V
?!Quote:
Originally Posted by RogueTwoRobots
Wasn't Cobalt at last year's champs 2WD?
My life is a lie! I thought it ran orange banebots wheels in the very middle of the robot for '12. I swear I saw that setup in a build thread somewhere. Or was that Diablo, then?
Oh well, forget me, lol.
Also, Alex, do you mean the 4:1 gearboxes? 4:1 drive is unlikely to work, is it? Must have a ridiculous theoretical top speed. I'd think their 16:1 is about perfect.
Shame your not going for a polycarbonate top, it looks cool being able to see inside!
I don't get why you have the wedge on the front, surely it would be easier to hit people and you could get a better engagement without it so you just drove straight into them? Obviously you would have to move the disk slightly further foward.
From the bit of video footage of drumroll an binky (they both had wedges didn't they?) at the GSL, the wedges looked more like a hindrance?
Yeah, Diablo was 2WD with the wheels in the centre, although I don't think it was set up like that until after the champs when Dave bought it.
Drumroll ran with a wedge at this year's champs, yes. For the most part, I found it to be very beneficial and helped to feed the robots up into the drum. All worked well until I fought Galactus and he got a head-on smash on the wedge and bent it up into the drum, jamming it.
I won't be remaking the wedge though, mainly because I'll be fabricating a new drum with a slightly larger diameter to take the teeth closer to the floor (something I couldn't do with the current drum without butchering the chassis). However I still like the wedge and might re-adopt it for a whiteboard spinner machine.
I think it maxs out at about 16mph in theory... cant remember exactly and I have lost the speed calculator I made in this debarcle with my laptop.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellis
Quite right. Thats why I am asking. I would need to have it on against say NST and LS4 but I would probably remove it for any ither fight and add more armour or mess with some other aspectQuote:
Originally Posted by Max
Anything geared over 10mph for a feather is going to be too quick to control. I would go for a higher ratio if you can and your motors are illy to thank you for it!
Ok Grant, I will change it down to 16:1 then, should be more than fast enough then and have more torque!Quote:
Originally Posted by grant_ploughbot
Excellent, I'm just looking at gearing my Astro motors down to around 16:1 on my new robot. I used to run at 15:1 but that was still very quick, and I might need some magnets in it will help with the torque to keep current draw low
Assuming you're using 100mm wheels and the drill motor spins at 18,000 rpm 4:1 gives a top speed of 52.7 mph!
http://www.technobotsonline.com/robo...alculator.html
16:1 gives 13.2mph, plus you have loses, wheel spin etc... so 16:1 seems a sane setup.
That was what I was thinking! Fairly sure he'll be using 73mm, but even so, it couldn't have been short of ridiculous on 4:1. 16:1 with the 775 motors will make for a solid drivetrain. :)