How exactly are you measuring the amps the motor draws? If your winch motors do draw that much power your IBC should have blown long ago.
Ive been wanting to ask that for a while.
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How exactly are you measuring the amps the motor draws? If your winch motors do draw that much power your IBC should have blown long ago.
Ive been wanting to ask that for a while.
Please do send a battery, I can test batteries up to 200A drain and data log the current (+/- 3% accuracy), voltage and temperature from 1mS intervals upwards.
Paul
@Daniel: We used Nicks ampmeter at the Marayong Annihilator when we were going put one of NiMH packs in, but he wanted to check if the motors would draw too much from the NiMHs, Andrew just gave it half throttle and then grabbed the wheel and it shot up over the 100amp mark for about 1-2 sec until he couldnt grip the spinning wheel.
On Annihilation we use a 1000amp analog shunt ampmeter, we use to run it on a 300amp scale but on start up it would just go off the scale, so now we use the 1000amp scale.
I think the IBC takes a bit more because we have a fan mounting on ours and tend to give them a break every now and then when driving them. When Brett did the testing on the older version of the IBC with the crap fet insulator washers, it would take 120amps for 5 secs when the insulators melted before blowing the fets. I dont know how much it could take with the new insulator washers installed.
@Paul: Ill be in Melbourne for RoboWars 2 in just over a week, Ill pick a few more DOSS SLAs up. Will grab and extra for you.
Sounds to me that you need to re-calibrate your amp meter. If you have previously saturated either of those meters then they will no longer give you accurate readings. You should always set the meter to measure a higher reading than what you expect then work your way down to avoid overloading the meter. The best way to test the meter (or measure any current in any circuit) is add a resister of known value in series and measure the voltage accross the resister. Use Ohms law to get a value of the current through the resister (I = V / R). Compare this value against the readings from your amp meter.
I also remember hearing that T2M can run for over 5 min with the 7Ah SLA but when I was running 2 x EV-warriors off a 7Ah SLA the robot was useless after less than a minute and I know for a fact that I was not drawing more than 80A total (I instaled circuit breakers to protect my speedos during testing).
@ Daniel: The 7amp you are using I believe are the Supercheap ones, which we have bought a few and they have been pretty crap, no where near as good as our DOSS SLAs.
The winches seem to draw a lot of amperage quickly when really loaded IE: Person sitting on it. But with the force required in pushing another featherweight and driving itself around, it draws bugger all and has been know to fight 2-3 battles in a row without getting charged(RoboWars 2003, didnt have time to charge).
Do you have HellBringer 3 intact still, as I wouldnt mind lending you a DOSS battery and seeing how long you go with it.
In regards to our amp meter, it could be inaccurate, but weve tested it with RS-550s and its been within 1-2 amps of there specs. About the resistor part, the shunt on the ampmeter is a piece of resistor plating if Im correct, and we just move the wire from one bolt to the another one further or closer depending on which scale we are using on the ampmeter.
Anyway Ill talk to you more about them at RoboWars 2, I think we should give the Gold Motors there thread back and possibly start a DOSS SLA thread :)
Back on the thread...
I recently brought 3 12v gold motors and I wondered what the gear/timing pulleys specs are (looks more like a timing pulley but you never know...). Each of the motors came with a pre-keyed fixing (gear or timing pulley) which may come to be useful...
Regards, Ewan
Ewan just to let you know that you will have to suppose the shaft of the 12v gold motor some way as they have no bearing built in as are available on the 24v versions.
As for gears etc. contact HPC and get a catelogue, I have one and their invaluable.
Regards
Ian
Ewan just to let you know that you will have to suppose the shaft of the 12v gold motor some way as they have no bearing built in as are available on the 24v versions.
As for gears etc. contact HPC and get a catelogue, I have one and their invaluable.
Talk about stating the bloody obvious, that wasnt my question anyway
the HPC catalogue is a good referance but its cheaper to buy from RS or Technobots. See if you can get hold of a couple of old 24v Golds and use their front plates instead of the ones fitted on the 12v ones. Are you running the 12Vs at 24v? Alpha uses MOD1 steel gears, probably abit OTT but theyre the smallest i could get hold of, i could turn them down...but that requires time :P
If your talking about the Timing pulley already on the gold, id reccomend against using that size belt which goes with that pulley. They snap and slip and all sorts. Heat it up and pull it off. Just a suggestion, we learnt with Kitty, and so did the very first Cutlet..
Mr Stu