New FW database (new robots)

update on 360 -

Found a voltage drop problem due to the disc motors sucking so much power from the main battery pack, so will need an exstra small pack to power the drive.

Spinup time with two motors is improved and power seems good- took a damage comparrison picture against a peice of 3mm steel hit by scorpion and hit by 360 (scorpion damage on left- 360 damage on right) will be on profile soon.

Also- does anyone know were people used to get the brass gears for bosch 35s? i damaged one of the standard nylon ones.

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=alE3UNMcDXchttp://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=alE3UNMcDXc

Just a quick vid on youtube showing 360s testing on 1 motor.

looking sweet guys, look forward to seeing it in action.

Small update with some pictures. I had 2 steel plates cut to try to make a setup, so i can test drive.
http://picasaweb.google.com/Jeroenvdlo/Firestarter1http://picasaweb.google.com/Jeroenvdlo/Firestarter1

New feather spinner designed and being built by my little cousin.

Name: Sabertooth
Drive: bosch 35s
power: lipo
Weapon: vertical spinner run by brushless and lipos
details: IG-88 type bot

Baramot 2
Ram bot.
Drive 2 x EV Warriors at 24v.
Armour Front 5 mm Ti plus 4mm Hardox
Sides 10mm polypro plus 4mm Ti
Rear 4mm polypro plus 4mm Ti
Controler Sidewinder

Nice. Ill have to get Relentless done and we can have a little rambot battle, btw i know yours is better. Oh yeah get on MSN Tony.:mrgreen:

Update on mayhem
Started again for about the 4th time now
Axe 20:1 speed 900 on 12v controlled my victor 883
Drive 5:1 speed 900 on 12v controlled by victor 883s
Shape same shape as tuffluck 1 but abit bigger
2mm steel armour for now will be 4mm before it fights any spinners base 4mm aluminium tops 10mm poly
So far Ive built the axe gear box mounted the drive and got it going and cut out the base and started Saturday hope for it to be done for Barnsley but will see

New 5mm Ti armour done for Dragonstrike just got to fit it. Pic on profile

Me thinks he is prepareing for something :)

Your new one and 360 perhaps dont think the plastic armour would do

Baramots new wheels pic on profile

ooo very nice!

those look sweet tony.

Yes they are just got to rebuild Baramot now for Barnsley.

DragonStrike is ready well i thought it was.Its overweight got to lose 60 grams

+2>VOTE KANE ASTON

Thought Id throw mine up here for a laugh :-)
Name: http://www.robowars.org/wikka/MBXpoint1

Ah, Ive seen MBX fighting online. I was having a convo with Dave Weston about a robot with only one wheel.

Yes, only having 1 wheel does peak a lot of peoples interest. A fun little robot considering it was slapped up in two weekends :).

I wish FIN spun that fast on 1 wheel :P

Updated info for Drumroll and adding Kaizer:

Name: Drumroll
Weight: 13.5kg
Power: Two 9.6V 3700mAh Ni-mh battery packs connected in series for 19.2V
Drive: Two 12V cordless drill motors overvolted to 19.2V and connected to 75mm blue wheels with bike tyre tread added
Weapon: A 3mm thick stainless steel spinning drum with four Hardox 450 discs welded onto the tube. Connected via timing belts and pulleys to a Speed 900 motor also running at 19.2V. Ratio of 2.5:1
Control: Two Electronize 15A speed controllers for drive and a Victor 885 for the drum.
Armour/chassis: 20mm thick Nylon 6 sides and bulkheads, 3mm ali base, 4mm hardox rear wedge and 4mm polycarb top with two layers of 4mm HDPE making up the self-righting hoops.

Name: Kaizer Mk3
Weight: 11kg
Power: Two 12V 3700mAh Ni-mh battery packs connected in series for 24V
Drive: Four 16.8V cordless drill motors overvolted to 24V and connected to 100mm blue wheels
Weapon: A set of front-facing lifting forks, similar to Panic Attack, powered by an Okin Deltadrive actuator rated at 800kg
Control: Two Electronize 30A speed controllers with external relays for drive and an Electronize 2-way switcher for the forks
Armour/chassis: 12mm HDPE sides front and back with 8mm HDPE base and panel armour, and 2mm ali chequerplate covering the top.
Notes: Lifting forks will be upgraded to four-bar-lifter when completed and 2mm ali chequerplate will be upgraded to something more likely to survive axes when funds allow.

Drumroll: http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c367/ayrshirerobotics/Drumroll%20-%20Build/DSCN4017.jpghttp://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...0-%20Build/DSC N4017.jpg

Kaizer: http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c367/ayrshirerobotics/Kaizer%20Mk3%20-%20Build/DSCN4046.jpghttp://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...k3%20-%20Build /DSCN4046.jpg

EDIT: Just noticed my profile pic is of Drumroll just before the UK champs last year. Not much has changed but it still looks quite different :P

(Message edited by K_C_R on February 11, 2009)

never seen 16.8v drills before

Yeah I hadnt either until I bought fourteen off eBay - they were from hammer drills and I just swapped them and the gearing (which is faster than conventional cordless drills) into standard gearbox housings, because the hammer drills come with a removable shaft which has no easy way of locking in (not handy having a shaft fall out during a fight!)

the makings of the new ramp for crumple zone

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27316623@N06/http://www.flickr.com/photos/27316623@N06/

New fw

K.a.h.n
6 wheel drive
electric lifter
titanium armour
built to with stand spinners, serious speed and pushing power, and a lifter too!

a fw bio hazard basically!

Ok, the next addition to Team Torque is now firmly on the drawing board... 'Biting Torque'... A featherweight version of Team Whyachi's 'Y-Pout' a full body translational spinner! ( http://www.teamwhyachi.com/ypout.htm )
Technical details to follow shortly.

http://www.weirdalice.co.uk/feather.JPG

Here's a little diversion, me building a feather.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scorpion

Ok, the next addition to Team Torque is now firmly on the drawing board... 'Biting Torque'... A featherweight version of Team Whyachi's 'Y-Pout' a full body translational spinner! ( http://www.teamwhyachi.com/ypout.htm )
Technical details to follow shortly.

---

How're you steering it, a cam mechanism and variable angle wheels, or electronic controls?

Would love to do a cam mechanism for it, in fact I would prefer to use Terry's original 'Nav-Bot' system. ( http://www.teamwhyachi.com/misc/NavBot.pdf ) But with only 13.6Kg to play with I fear I may have to go the electronic route.

The electronic route is certainly a lot easier while allowing for invertibility :) Will you be going 3 wheels as per the Y-pout/Y-not designs?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by knightrous

The electronic route is certainly a lot easier while allowing for invertibility :) Will you be going 3 wheels as per the Y-pout/Y-not designs?

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If and when I end up doing one, it will use that 3 wheeled design...and brushless! I've figured out a hack which should allow them to be workable...

@ Knightrous, yep the full Y-Pout replica, I have been in touch with Terry to get his permision to replicate his design and am awaiting his reply.

@ Metal Demons, thought about the burshles option, but discounted it because of the obvious problems. Tell me more about this hack of yours, sounds interesting.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scorpion

@ Knightrous, yep the full Y-Pout replica, I have been in touch with Terry to get his permision to replicate his design and am awaiting his reply.

@ Metal Demons, thought about the burshles option, but discounted it because of the obvious problems. Tell me more about this hack of yours, sounds interesting.

---

Rather than designing my own custom controller to handle the faster update rates that would be required, I've been planning to just hack a brushless control board to split the power leads to the controller section and H-bridge - and then stick an IGBT in series with the main power to the bridge, so the H-bridge section (and motor) is only powered when the IGBT is ON - then I would be able to stick the brushless motor controller at one set throttle level and modulate its duty cycle via switching the IGBT, just like switching a normal motor.

I can already see a few problems though - wouldn't be ideal, but may work as a bit of a hack until I end up designing a custom, encoder-driven brushless controller for the machine.

It's just an electronics design project really... once I've got all that out of the way, the robot itself won't exactly be a particularly complicated beast - just a big chunk of hardox, A123s, and brushless motors.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Metal Demons

Quote:

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Originally Posted by scorpion

@ Knightrous, yep the full Y-Pout replica, I have been in touch with Terry to get his permision to replicate his design and am awaiting his reply.

@ Metal Demons, thought about the burshles option, but discounted it because of the obvious problems. Tell me more about this hack of yours, sounds interesting.

---

Rather than designing my own custom controller to handle the faster update rates that would be required, I've been planning to just hack a brushless control board to split the power leads to the controller section and H-bridge - and then stick an IGBT in series with the main power to the bridge, so the H-bridge section (and motor) is only powered when the IGBT is ON - then I would be able to stick the brushless motor controller at one set throttle level and modulate its duty cycle via switching the IGBT, just like switching a normal motor.

I can already see a few problems though - wouldn't be ideal, but may work as a bit of a hack until I end up designing a custom, encoder-driven brushless controller for the machine.

It's just an electronics design project really... once I've got all that out of the way, the robot itself won't exactly be a particularly complicated beast - just a big chunk of hardox, A123s, and brushless motors.

---

I like your idea, a very neat technical solution, but the main issue I have with any brushless soloution isn't the control side, that I'm sure could be solved with a system based on your idea, but given the physical abuse this design of machine places on the drive motors, I'm not sure how reliable any brushless set up would be. I'm yet to be convinced that any brushless motor is as 'robust' as a good quality PM DC motor.

That aside, I have just had a reply from Terry giving his blessing to the project so watch this space!.....

I'm looking at going to 3 wheel brushless in the future with MBX, but I'll be looking towards a wobbly wheel setup like Y-Pout has. The reason I want to use a mechanical method for the translation is that with the pulse based electrical method of turning the motor off to translate, your reducing the motors duty cycle and degrading the power you get from the motors. I want to run a solution where the motor run at full speed all the time to provide the maximum power and torque. Also, the faster you go with the electronic method, the slower the translation speeds due to the smaller amount of time off time you can produce, the mechanical method should produce close to proportional faster translation as you increase the RPM.

The mechanical version does have the draw backs of coming up with a reliable way of doing it :)

Ian (from Team Weird Alice) the feather Chassis is looking good is this your first feather, what type push robot or flipper? :D
I am making a feather too, I expect it to break into bits the first event it goes but if you don't try you never know! :uhoh: :uhoh:
I have decided to go down the Heavenly or Angelic naming route so my new robot is going to be called Seraphim. Got a name for Little Alice.

Craig,

Yes, it is the first feather for me. I'm making this to learn how to work with polycarb, so it's initially it's going to be a push bot but if it works okay I'll modify it and add a weapon of some sort. Hopefully, I'll have it ready for Swindon. As for a name, since I have partly built this for Sarah, my daughter, to use she'll be naming it. :? :?

Ian

Quote:

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Originally Posted by knightrous

I'm looking at going to 3 wheel brushless in the future with MBX, but I'll be looking towards a wobbly wheel setup like Y-Pout has. The reason I want to use a mechanical method for the translation is that with the pulse based electrical method of turning the motor off to translate, your reducing the motors duty cycle and degrading the power you get from the motors. I want to run a solution where the motor run at full speed all the time to provide the maximum power and torque. Also, the faster you go with the electronic method, the slower the translation speeds due to the smaller amount of time off time you can produce, the mechanical method should produce close to proportional faster translation as you increase the RPM.

The mechanical version does have the draw backs of coming up with a reliable way of doing it :)

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I'd be inclined to say that by reducing the duty cycle you allow yourself to overvolt the motor even more, thereby getting the same average power output ;-)

NEW FOR 2009
Name : King Rat
Weight : ????
Drive: 2 X 35w boshe with metal gears
Power : 2 x 3700 tornado @12v
Weapon : Electric flipper / lifter
Control : Scorpian XL
Armour : 2mm stainless steel
Constuction : 6mm aluminium plate

Basicly a scaled up version of johnnos pay to drive ratz

Cheers Froggy