I know some people have used Pipe Connectors in the past as these are longer than nuts.
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I know some people have used Pipe Connectors in the past as these are longer than nuts.
the set from gimpson with the nuts, now has a longer one (well my second order did) and that is designed so a washer is not required under the left-hand screw as it fits straight against the nut.
what plastic will you use for the wheels?
We bought the wheels from a place near us, they're basically the robochallenge blue wheel hubs, but in white nylon, and without the tread. They're less than 2 quid each.
hi! great robot! I wondered if you'd considered making your shaft with the forks on almost a one piece item? (I have absolutely no idea how you would do this! lol) There is a video on Youtube from the Sewer Snake team talking you round the robot, and they have a similar weapon to you. From the looks of it, its like a one-piece welded thingy.
Hi, thanks! Yeah we considered making it all one big welded thingy, but having a bit of looseness in it might even be a good thing. We built it like this originally so that it can be completely taken apart, which has proven useful.
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My dad got back from the UK yesterday, and with him he brought some goodies. LiPos, fuses, fuse holders, the world's most confusing chain-breaker, a spare drill, etc. Deciding to not force the rush-build of Grabbererer is allowing us to spend more time making Tormenta 2 more viable, which is nice.
Also still investigating making the weapon act like a servo. :)
That's a good idea. I suppose if it's welded and then gets bent by a spinner you've had it.
looks very fast :)
Ooooo :-) Shifts now doesn't it! Just don't blow it up or you will have no robot :-(
Cant see the video :(
Ellis, do you get the feeling Kaizer & Tormenta are looking more like twins?
At this rate, we'll pick up each others machines & wonder why the radio isn't working...
Indeed, they're similar!
We're going to attempt to weld the second stage pins into place on the drill gearboxes soon, but I'm not sure if that's really the best thing to do. I'd love to keep the 12v motors because the power at the fully charged ~21v is fantastic, I'm just wondering if it's really worth the problem of never knowing how close the setup is to failure.
Looks like moving to 18v motors and 24:1 gearboxes would would cost around 55-60 quid. Has anyone got experience with 24:1 setups? Is the drop in torque particularly marked?
And thanks for the comments guys. Certainly is nippy!
Matt, it should work for all. :?
Robob works perfectly well with that set-up!
I believe we're fighting in April so, uh, you got any video of Robob? For seeing how the ratio change affects things, of course, pfft. :wink:
Looks great, can't wait to see it in the arena!
Is your wiring Black and Brown? That's got to lead to a few shorts!
It is indeed black and brown, because believe it or not, no where here seems to sell red wire! It's incredible, we searched everywhere, and it's just not used. The colour difference is marked enough for it to not be a problem, though, no shorts so far!
(probably just jinxed it didn't I)
Thanks James.
The current international standard in Europe for mains wiring is Green/Yellow as the earth, Brown as positive and Blue as negative. Red was used up until 2004... I think. That might explain it to some degree.
Yeh brown and blue is the current standard, with brown being live.
Just don't do what I did did and wire half the robot in Red/Black and the other in Brown/Blue, too easy to mess that up!
Domestic 230v is brown/blue/earth colour
Industrial 24v is blue and white/blue
Automotive 12v is red/black
3 phase industrial is brown black grey in England, some places still use red blue yellow or black for all 3
I use red black because it's the same colour that comes with the lipo's etc and it keeps it all simple :)
It's a small black parallelogram wedge with red lights in the wheel at arches.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellis
Well the way to make this robot reliable is to stop the overvolting. There is no loss of top speed by changing the motors to 18v and going 24:1, only a bit of explosiveness. Would be a shame to lose that, but you can push a robot with bosch 35s if you can get underneath, so the way the machine works would be the same.
And it would probably improve my driving, having everything a bit calmer.
That would cost something like 60 quid to do. Very little to pay to gain reliability.
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We're also overvolting the lifter motor. Recently it smells of overworked motor even if you run it literally for a second. We don't know the history of it (found by some bins), so for all we know it has always been close to going home.
Looking at this as a replacement motor: http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/Mjk0OTg2OT ... 5G_AS.html
The can looks to be almost identical to the one in the drill. We'd lose some power in the weapon, but it has buckets of it, so it shouldn't be a problem. And for that money it's worth getting one to find out.
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Other than those potential upgrades (downgrades?) we updated the wiring last night. Thinking about putting some bike tyre on the blue wheels as with just 3mm of clearance I'm worried about bottoming out at the champs.
Sorry, the link never appeared last time! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IC3gncrBfkYQuote:
Originally Posted by Danjr1
It certainly doesn't seem to be lacking any power. Are you running 18v motors on 6s? ^
We bit the bullet and got what we need from Gimson to make this change. We also ordered what we think should be a replacement motor for the lifter. All in all, Tormenta 2 should finally be on the road to reliability. :)
Four 18v 24:1 Argos-cased motors with two hacked 85a escs on 6s 4800mah lipo. It's a lot better than I originally envisaged it to be.
Are you running 100mm wheels? If so that thing must rocket!
Also means all 3 robots (Robob, T2 and 720) will be 10mph+, it's going to be an intense fight!
It's running 75mm wheels, the wheelbase is so short that speeding it up any more may make it uncontrollable. It's already crazy enough as it is!
As we wait for the stuff from Gimson and the replacement motor for the lifter we've done a few little bits.
Here's what she looks like as of tonight. There are a few more on photobucket: http://s1088.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... rmenta 2
http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1363389657
Looks really good Ellis!
Like
Eerie. Effin eerie. I've got to get a picture of those two together. It'll be the spot the difference puzzle in the next FRA newsletter.
Haha, can you send me a picture? My memory of Kaizer is black HDPE and low forks, or has it changed?Quote:
Originally Posted by psychostorm
Kaizer is flat pack ATM for the installation of Gimsons & new batteries. I'll post side by side pics when I can.
Outside has changed very little except the forks are now off the floor, about half way up the front, to give the new actuator better leverage.
With thanks to Dave Weston BTW for whom this upgrade couldn't have happened without.
The Gimson stuff has arrived! I'm very surprised at how quickly, too. The packaging was almost impenetrable, all parts bubble wrapped nicely. Impressed!
So now begins the make-a-massive-mess-on-the-dining-table-fest-2013 which is taking apart everything and putting it all back together cleaner, and with these new gearboxes and motors sorted. Assuming no catastrophes there should be a drive video by the end of the day.
That said until I get my hands on a completed gearbox I'm unsure what the game is in terms of additional spacers. The gears are quite a bit slimmer, that slack must be taken up somewhere. Does the addition of nylon/metal washers on the Gimson site also apply to drill gearboxes, or just the GR02? If anyone with experience can let me know, I'd be grateful. I'll go and make a dummy gearbox up and make my own analysis.
Feels good to have something hearty to do on the machine, feels a bit like doing 4 organ transplants back to back.
Depends on what ratio your're running, the 1:36 needs two copper washers, the 1:24 needs one copper and one nylon.... Just assembled mine :lol:
For your drill gearbox I think you'll have to do it by trial and error tho
Ewan placed all the info on his webshop
Hold up, the GR2ms need washers for what?
Because the 1:24 1st stage gears are shallower than their 1:36 counterparts.
6mm (1:36) vs 5.3mm (1.24)
If you keep the 1:24 washers you'll bind the gearbox!
Look here:
http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/spare-p ... _GR02.html
Of course, you don't need/can't place spacers in drill gearboxes. The groove cut for the circlip dictates the position of the shaft in and out, so it's fine. The gears tower up to the same height as the factory gears anyway, so we shouldn't have to do anything more advanced than replacing the gears and motor.
With that said I have made one up and have run it in for 5-10mins in both directions on 12 volts to run it in. The motor is as smooth as smooth, and the gearbox sounds smooth, but it seems to get warm after a while. I don't think I ever felt to see if gearboxes get warm at 36:1, but this is quite a lot of heat, enough to worry me a bit. The gearbox has completely fresh insides so there are no bits of grit or anything. It does this bizarre buzzing sound for a moment or two every 5-6 seconds, too. No idea what it is. It's regular enough to be able to predict when it happens.
Bit confused. I can't put them together any other way so I'm gonna run with it. They'll never be running in this fashion in combat and I'll check the others, but it pulls less than 2 amps at 12v, so I don't think the gearbox is holding it back.
Will keep this updated.
Tormenta 2's looking sweet Ellis :)