If you rotate the bot quickly on the spot it will reduce the energy in it as well from gyro forces and I haven't ever seen anyone standing with a stop watch at the side of the arena
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If you rotate the bot quickly on the spot it will reduce the energy in it as well from gyro forces and I haven't ever seen anyone standing with a stop watch at the side of the arena
We've had robot's with this in the past, particularly in featherweights a very free gearbox/bearings is essential so we won't be banning anything that can't spin down fast enough.
However, there are a few provision's that we take with robot's that do take longer to spin down and these will be discussed during tech check (Mouldy will be made aware of these, but it's nothing major).
Two points/question today...
1:Can we know the provisions in advance for the spin down?
2: With Aluminium grading I know approximately the relative costs and better over all properties of each grade but when it comes down to it which would people choose?
1060 is far to weak to be used as armour in internal supports; it just bends.
I have heard of 2014 and 5052 being used in robots.
6061 and 6082 seem very similar but are both better than the first 3 as far as I know.
7075 is the 'best' as far as I know but is it worth cost increase from say 6082?
For bulkheads and axe arms etc then 2014/7075 are about the best. For welding go with the 6082. 5000 series is abit soft and cheap.
With regards to the provision's, its nothing to do with how you build your robot, just a few pointer's for during the event.
Make sure you know what temper of aluminium you're purchasing as that largely effects the strength of the material.
If your're getting 2024 type, temper T0 its rated approx 200Mpa in tensile strength, while in T3 temper its rated approx 300Mpa. Same with 7075, T0 is 300Mpa while T6 is 600Mpa.
7075, and 2024 are aircraft grade aluminium so I think they might be slightly expensive or hard to find.
I've used 6082T6 which is half way between 2024T3 and 7075T6 and its widely available.
Something worth noting is that these alloys are not easy to bend and form and have a tendency to crack in tight angles.
I am guessing that everyone is quite curious to see exactly what Binky is and what it can do. There as still some issues to resolve; mainly around signal and range, but this should sum it up quite nicely.
The secrets are revealed... kind of..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wmp0vHW-9Ts
Hahaha, oh maaan. What have you done?! That's crazy! :lol:
I feel for those facing it come April. Something to be feared right there.
Edit: Conker 2 test video gogogogo!
ok :uhoh: this is defiantly the first spinner im scared of :lol:
:shock: That's CRAZY! :shock:
Thats the best new robot video I've seen in years! Look forward to fighting it!
Thanks guys. :)
I feel that I should point out that we didn't make the disc or the uprights.
The design is basically all mine but a vast amount of work has been done by other people. Sam kindly made the Disc Mounts, the armour was welded by Tad-Weld in Tadcaster and the pieces were cut by Yorkshire profiles.
With Conker 3 (Yes I am already looking at the next one) we will be designing it in such a way that we should be able to do everything once it has been waterjet cut. The plan is that once the parts are cut all we will need is a good pillar drill, strong vice and a tapping set.
I hope this isn't to presumptuous but I reckon that Binky would be great in the Tested to destruction demos! :D
That is a great test video.
Look forward to watching its battles?
Thanks Sam, Its first fight against Explosion is going to be fun to watch!
We are still having issues with the signal on Binky. With the armour on the function range is like 4 feet. With it off I can be about 80 feet away.
We are going to buy some actual Spektrum receivers; cant decide between AR6110 and AR500, but is it possible to extend the arial on the receiver we have now to get it outside the armour?
With old transmitters and receivers you had to have the arial at a specific ratio to the wave length, does this still apply or can you get away with any random bit of multi-core wire?
Don't f£&@ with the ariel!
Get an AR6110, the ar500 has a bad record in the breakage stakes. My ar6110 manages to receive commands through an 8mm thick steel lid and have a range well over 50 meters (tested it).
Ask Mouldy how he got round the same problem with 720. I think he put the antenna behind the wheels in the end.
Also, I believe the OrangeRxs have Sat ports, which could help.
ended up being a dodgy transmitter... now 720 works fine with the orange rx burried in a pretty much air tight part of 720 behind 20mm of alumec 89.
Try a new rx... if not try a different tx...
It seems you've had nothing but trouble with your dx6i.... do your self a favour, stick it on ebay and buy a dx7 or dx8!
Borrowed a DX5e off a friend and bound it to the Orange RX in Binky... same problem with the armour on. Then bound it to the original RX that came with the DX6i... again no more than about 4 feet...
Also unplugged one of the TZ85s incase it was getting to much power... same results.
This seems to rule out both the RX and TX which can't be right. Just ordered 2 AR 6110's which david suggested.
I have no idea what is going on or how to solve it... ideas?
unplug the brushless from the rx and see if the drive works without the disc running and shell on...
What motor does Binky use for it's weapon?
Will try that tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouldy
A scorpion HK-4035-630Kv @37V. But I really don't recommend putting one in your first robot! They are very dangerous on their own let alone linked to a 3.5kg disc!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Masher
Tried that today and it made no decernable difference. At this rate Binky is only going to be fighting in one corner of the arena.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouldy
On another note... I have got some Titanium TA10 plates to go at the front of Binky as ground scrapers. I am going to have it annealed it get it to stay constantly flat to the floor. But I can't find what temperature I need to heat it to so that it will under go the right transition, and how long I need for it to cool down.
Poke the aerial out of the chassis Old Skool style, but with a modern twist (it'll be tiny).
That is what I have been thinking all along. ^
Is it possible to velcro the rx to one of the armour panels?
Im fine with him fighting in one corner ;)
It is possible if I extend the wires somehow. The problem is that as Binky has such shallow sloped armour, any robot that ends up riding on top if they drive into the side or rear might just take it clean off. I will see what happens with the new RX's
Have you tried the transmitter and receiver away from the robot to get a range check?
Done a full range check as described in the manual with and without armour, just driving one wheel; in case multiple BEC's were messing with the signal somehow.
Run it with and without the HV160 attached with armour on and off. I am almost out of options.
In all of those situations still only a few feet range?
When you get your new RX, make sure you only have one BEC feeding it, before you do any possible damage.
What you should really have got if it is that your armour is blocking the signal is to get the spektrum carbon fuse receivers. http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Defa ... =SPMAR6255
They have extra long antenna's so that you can poke them outside the carbon fiber body on planes. You could then easily make up a small block of polycarb that mounts onto the backplate of the robot out the way of other robot's.
It does seem odd that your having issues though.
I will let you guys know when they arrive. That way you may be able to suggest a good process to take.
And yeah its really really odd. For all I know its the univerities WiFi getting in the way but if its not strong enough for my Laptop to pick up a signal where I test then I can't see how its strong enough to kill my signal
On a different note... C3.
[attachment=0:1i1yrm6l]Conker 3.5.1 Internal Clip.pdf[/attachment:1i1yrm6l]
As its stands its at 13.25kg in CAD and I will leave it there as I am missing wires and bolts and stuff is always slightly heavier than you think.
A 3kg, 17.5mm single tooth drum driven by a HK-5035-500kv @ 37V on a 3:2 ratio, making 12'000 rpm at the drum; theoretically. 2x GR02 24V drive with 73mm banebots wheels linked by belts to give 4WD. The chassis is various aluminium types. 10mm 7075 for the outer walls, 10mm 5082 for the inner walls and 16mm Alumec 89 for the drum supports. Base and sloped top armour are 2mm Ti2 (Looking to go to Grade 6) and the other top section is 1.2mm TA10 or Ti64. The front blade is 5mm Ti6.
If anyone can see any glaring issues let me know. I am trying to keep the essence of conker's 1&2 whilest completely changing the machines weight distribution which is well... difficult.
if your going to all that effort you mayaswell get that wedge with some side angles that go down to the floor to deflect horizontals.. as it is, it will just get riped off... the angles should also prevent it getting stuck on its nice flat sides....
otherwise it looks good, apart from the fact that 12000rpm is lame and i thought you'd want to try and out do me? It's all about getting your rpm's into the teen's nowadays :lol:
Edit; Also im pretty sure the minimum thickness you can get alumec in is 20mm (ish - comes over size slightly) not sure if you have access to a decent mill to machine it down.
I could go for 1:1 ratio with the HK50, that would mean 18'500 lossless, does that make you happier? And yeah the angled edges are on the 'to do' list when I have done the CAD for my project.
If I can all the 2mm pieces will go to grade 6 as the Grade 2 is a little bendy.
Hmm with the Alumec, I could mill it down. It would take a while but I could get it to exactly 16mm. As an Alumini I can go back to uni so I could have all the pieces milled and finished to exactly 10mm or what ever it may be. Much better fit that way to!
Yeah, thats what Ed Wallace has done for me before. It machines really nicely too. all off 720's plates were skimed down to perfectly 20mm before any profile work was done.
And 18000rpm would be awesome... when it engages lol 720 engages relatively well on single tooth now running 13600ish, i think you could possibly get upto 16000rpm before it causes to much of an issue... (some dissagree)
Also what method of drive are you planning on the drum? Belts?
Looking good :) a beasty motor your putting there too!
I prefer slower spinning disc's to super speed drum's. It depend's what you want out of the weapon I guess. A pointy single tooth will always do alot more damage than a wide bar will, and so if at over 10,000rpm your not just grinding, your likely to send robots flying in the air rather than tear a huge chunk out.
That's my personal preference though :rofl:
For the bulkheads - if alumec only comes in such a thick form, it might be worth just going for a nice piece of 2014 or so as that will be plenty strong enough still.
One of conker's points was that the disc was at top speed in less than a second. Ok, it only did it once but it allowed it to flip 4 4 Toon three times while inertia was still spinning up! The reason it burnt out was cos it was touching the dam floor the entire fight. If it hadn't I would reckon that Conker might have racked up enough points to come 2nd rather than last.
This time, its all down to engagement on how fast I will spin it. I would like to be capable of both; tossing for the spectical and tearing for winning. I went for the 2:3 ratio for that reason. Mouldy is getting good engagement with what is similar to a single tooth at around 12K so a true single tooth should be great at that speed.
As for ripping, I will probably design another drum which I can take in and out. Might have to tweak the design so that can happen but it would be worth it. A drum with a single massive (like 30mm, maybe 35mm) tooth on it would me my preference, with a heavy steel tube providing maximum rotational moment.
Drums are pretty rubbish at cutting... If that's what you want your best of sticking to a disc... Drums are better at pulling of panels/flipping opponents and generally just being relentless and anoying to fight.
Best way to win against a drum is with something like NST that can keep it at distance.
Its a hard game to play, picking your weapon. Boner and 720 are both great examples of drums and both have/have the potential to cause massive damage. TBH I don't mind what the damage is as long as it is able to disable an opponent; I would rather not destroy them if I can help it.
But I cant think of anything that is truly any good against NST. TS2 is pretty close as it can get under the bar and toss it up if it hits it right, just like it did in november. My hope for C3 is that NST would bounce up off the front blade and I would be able to get in and attack the bar supports. Also the HK-50 will give me a very short spin up time so I can get in before the bar picks up any kind of speed.
But that is one of the cool things about what we do, there is no right answer or accepted way of doing it as the machines vary so much that its impossible to design for every occasion. You pick your poison and go for it!