Bullfrog uses the Iskra AMG 1200W.
Heavier than a Bosch, but sturdier build.
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Bullfrog uses the Iskra AMG 1200W.
Heavier than a Bosch, but sturdier build.
Thanks for the links and info!
What size hydraulic ram is needed for a good crusher heavyweight?
Edit: or what force is needed from the ram as force obviously it depends on pressure)
Tiberius IV uses a 70*148 ram, @4000 psi delivers 10 000 kg.
Of course, the leverage and the geometrics are important too.
Hi,
Does anyone know if you can fit the brass on/off valve from a roaming robots 20oz co2 bottle onto a 12oz paintball bottle?
Also has anyone combined pneumatics at hydraulics in a hw crusher? That way you can use the speed of the pneumatics to grab someone quickly then crush them with the power of the hydraulics.
Why would you use the heavy screw valve like on the 20oz bottle when paintball bottles can be equipped with an on/off valve that does the job equaly well, for less weight and size?
On the combined Pneumatic/hydraulic machine.
Yes, the was one. The Kraken.
1 thing tough, you'll need to keep the pneumatics and hydraulics seperated, otherwise you're probably falling under the accumulator rule. As in not allowed.
I know the brass valve is heavier and larger but a paintball valve wouldn't fit in the existing chassis :sad:
So does anyone know if it should fit?
Is the CO2 nut in the current setup solidly mounted in the chassis?Quote:
Originally Posted by Max
No, but I need the valve to screw onto the trev reg at a 90 degree angle.
Easely solved by putting a 90° angle paintball connection to the Trevor.
Oh well, in any case, it is possible to fit a RR screw valve on a 12oz paintball bottle. If the 20oz bottles provided are unmodified paintball bottles.
Otherwise it's a more involved process. But not rocket sdience nor CNC metalworking.
Is there any difference between the motor on a 12v drill and a 9.6v drill?
the only real difference on the motor label of the 1s i have are the 2 different voltages dunno if there's a gearing difference
Do you mean aside from the voltage difference? I don't think so. The output RPM when running their rated voltages might differ, I'd expect the 9.6v to be a little slower. Gearbox-wise, it is quite likely they're identical. That said I have never worked with 9.6v drills so hopefully someone who has will chime in. It may be that the reduced torque from the 9.6v allows the manufacturers to use slimmer gearwheels, or something.Quote:
Originally Posted by Max
I meant the motor, I wasn't sure if the motor was the same just running on different voltages.
Gearboxes are almost always the same with cheap drills (inc. plastic first stage), the motors however are (most of the time) wound to give roughly the same power/speed output with the 9.6V at 9.6V as the 12V at 12V. Sometimes particularly cheap manufacturers will use a 9.6V motor at 12V or vice-versa though.
I've started on the rebuild of centrifuge! This time the bar will be powered by a fan motor and it will be invertible without those castor wheels on top.
So far I have welded a frame and cut some hdpe panels:
http://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/...03BB00ECBD.jpg
It seems massive but now there will be plenty of room or the electronics. I will probably put some GR01s in there instead of the drill motors.
Looks great so far! If I can point one thing out, one of the reasons I believe NST is so good is that Sam has tried to get the drive wheels as far forward as possible and it's made NST really controllable without a massive weight out the front. Having wheels right at the back is a bit like steering a heavy shopping trolley. Look forward to seeing it running!
That's an interesting point- I might try to move things around to move the wheel further forward.
Its good to see another bar spinner on the build Max.
That is very good advice from James. The first NST had the wheels too far back and it struggled to turn in one direction when the disc was running. Bringing them forward with this type of design makes a big difference, the wheels in NST are only a few mm from the spinning bar.
I've been thinking about hydraulics again and there is one thing I don't get- surely the hydraulic ram only has as much power as the motor that runs the pump so why would you bother with hydraulics rather than a linak or a high reduction gear box to power a crusher?
Because with Hydraulics you can achive ratio's in the the 1000's to 1 in 1 go.
It's up to the builder to see how much power he wants to put in the system. But that's depending on what motor, and how far from the max efficiency the builder wants to go from the motor-power curve.
Basic formula:
pressure (bar)xflow (liter/minute)/500=Kw needed.
Example. we have a speed 900 drving the pump, with the max efficiency rating of 12V 13A=0.15 Kw
The most small , cheap gearpumps are in the 200 bar range.
(200*.45)/600=0.15
This give me a 0.075CC gearpump (each revolution is .075 cc*6000=0.45L/min) to be mated to the 6Krpm running Speed 900.
Unfortunatly, the smallest, affordable gearpump I ever had was a 0.17 CC=2.5 times to big. Easely solved with a reduction gearing. Pump will run 2400 rpm then.
Imagine a 50mm bore ram, stroke 100mm.
Power is 2.5*2.5*pi*200=3926 kg. Volume is 0.2 Liter
Flow is .45l/min. Filling that ram takes 27 seconds.
Half the pressure, and you can double up the flow.
Thanks Mario, that was really helpful :D
Does that hydraulic calculation hold true for C02 pneumatics?
Not by a longshot. Especialy not with CO2, as that has a very erratic behavior concerning liquid-gas-temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eventorizon
Hi,
Would these motors be suitable for a featherweight?
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-PDX26.html
Looking at the stats they seem to be a lot more powerful than gimsons, would they be comparable to a speed 900 powered drive system?
Although the website says they are suitable fir hobby weights which are only 6kg I think?
I should imagine they would be perfectly good for FW use. They're a high power 550 size (same scale as Gimsons and cheap drills) motor and gearbox. I doubt they would be on par with a s900 setup, no, but they'd get your robot shifting nicely.
Look at Cobalt and that is the kind of drive you would get but a bit faster as the motor they fit is a little more powerful and runs at a higher voltage.
I will be going a similar way with conker eventually.
Does anyone know if heating polycarbonate in an oven to bend and shape it, weakens the strength of the polycarbonate? Also will 6mm polycarbonate be enough to stop most axes or crushers?
Axes, yeah probably. Crusher, no.
I think Drumroll had a 6mm Polycarb lid last year and it has a big hole where Cobalt went right through. Reinforced with steel now too.
Hi,
I have bought a pair of Bosch 400s for a hw, I know I am suppose to modify the magnets but I can't figure out what I am supposed to do- I read that you have to glue in te magnets and rotate them so that it goes equally fast in both directions but I can't figure out how to rotate the magnets? Also should I be able to just pull out the shaft in the middle with the coil on it- I think you have to to take out the magnets?
Here is a picture:
http://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/...02BF70727E.jpg
Thanks,
Max
You can pull out the rotor, but it requires a lot of force.
To get the magnets in the neutral position, you'll have to remove magnets and clips. You'll see that the clips have a nook that fits in a slot in the can. And that that slot has 2 brothers Now the nook will be in a lot on the side. By using the one in the middle, you will have put the magnets in neutral position.
To upgrade the motor to RW capabilities.
Using a strong glue- araldite was one of the choises- to keep the magnets in place.
Remove the fan.
Weld the front plate.
And keep in mind, overvolting to 24V will cook the motor, unless you have a massive reduction ratio.
Thanks mario,
Is it really necessary to take off the fan or weld on the end cap?
Also I think I read you can use a piece of dowel instead of glueing in the magnets, is that correct?
Wow there is so much space in there for more copper!
Welding the cap ain't needed if you support the can itself. But I would do it whatsoever. That's because welding is plain fun for me.
Removing the fan ain't needed either. But it removes a point of failure.
Glueing the magnets. If you use the merlon trick, it's less needed, but still recommended. Just using dowels won't save the motor from magnets that shake lose the nook on the springs and start rotating in the can.
And yes Gary, creative minds have added copper to Bosches. King Buxton and Tornado spring to mind.
What is the extra copper for?
More turns, more resistance, less current draw but same torque and speed at same voltage. Allows more over volty goodness due to less current draw.
Or if you somehow couldn't over volt but your batteries and speedo can take the extra current you could use parallel strands of wire. Same number of turns, lower resistance, more current draw, more torque same speed at same voltage.
Or parallel wind the turns, less resistance, more amp draw, more torque at the same voltage.
Oh I get it- I didn't realise you meant put in extra coils , I thought you meant put in a huge chunk of copper between the commutator and the windings for some magnetic induction reason!
I was going on marios thinking
Hi,
I am making progress with my idea of making my own speed controller.
I decided I would try to make a miniature speed controller with my arduino and the electronics I had lieu my around-
http://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/...32A98A3648.jpg
http://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/...32B30552F1.jpg
I used an H-bridge microchip an then just lots of wires!
It controlled the speed of one small motor and a servo and has the ability to run one more motor.
My plan is to use one of the microchips from an arduino then make my own circuit board to wire it all up, then I will use a lot of mosfets or some solid state relays. I want it keep it as simple as possible to make it reliable and rugged.
Cool! Are you using the Arduino to just convert the output from the Rx to PWM for the chip? Just wondering if there are smaller cheaper options.