yeah thats what i do, nylon structural and HDPE armour, once made one completely out of HDPE, and hated it, it didnt feel strong at all to me, although most people seem to have sucess
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yeah thats what i do, nylon structural and HDPE armour, once made one completely out of HDPE, and hated it, it didnt feel strong at all to me, although most people seem to have sucess
I'm assuming you're meaning Supralsim 690. Not sure if it's classed as an exotic material, though it does have a fancy name! It was just a form of hard steel, similar to Hardox, that was easily obtainable at the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by PJ-27
They were on the 3-tooth drum that's been scrapped though. Current drum is just a s/s tube with Hardox 500 bar teeth.
Yeh that's the stuff! Awesome name.
what resistor/diode do you need to use with a microswitch for an actuator stop
These are the ones I fitted today in Carcinus:
http://www.technobotsonline.com/1n5401- ... diode.html
Seem to work fine.
ok got mi new battery for night fury and so far i've gutted it to do a few mods and upgrades
the wheels are being change, the power distribution is being upgraded and im going to build a battery box out of aluminium and add some extra steel above and below it to help protect it from the crushers
ok got a bit more done on the latest bot
now my new m6 tap arrived ive managed to get the motors mounted and built a chunk of the lifter
ok tacked the top plates on now i need to decide weather to go for bearing or bushed (pics have the 2 options)
i know the brass bushes should take more punishment but i think the bearings look better
Looking really good! Hopefully it and Tormenta 2 get to tussle one day. :)
Also, the cooler a robot looks does seem to have some sort of relation to how well it does, but I'd say go for whatever will take more abuse, without doubt.
Keep it up.
im hoping to get it ready for the gadget show so it can do some whiteboard fights
nice fabrication skills mate!
looking great, i think you need to consider possible damage from other robots rather than any problems the axe might cause on eithther the bearings or bushes
so which ever will run smoother and then think about protecting it further - should be easy enough with your welding skills :)
ok at the mo trying to decide whether to put some large bits of rubber where the arm lands against the bot or to just to weld in some thicker steel to take the punishment ?
also i might make an axe for the bot as the drill is a 2 speed so it can move 3x faster
night fury upgrades
started to make the battery box for the lipo box, there will be a 10mm thick aluminium block at either end which will be tapped and bolted in. I'm also intending to add some steel plate above and below for a bit more protection i have also mounted the power splitter and fuse holder with 80a midi fuse and started to upgrading the wire from the battery to the splitter with 12awg
Looking very good. Axes sure are fun to watch!
Looking foward to see this robot finished.
What ratio did you use between the car seat actuator and the lifter arm in Scruffy?
the actuator sits about half way between the lifters wedge and hinge (give or take an inch) so the actuator itself probably put out near 50kg force
Thanks. I want to do something similar. My actuator has 50 mm of travel. I pushed it onto bathroom scales at about 55 kg weight of force. It was still extending, but I couldn't push any harder.
ok since it was a bit warmer i've manage to get a little bit done
ive fitted the 2 bumpers for the lifting arm /axe and cut the box section down to size and added a couple of support im intending to make a scoop lifter using a gas bottle which i will have to do some shaping to keep it wide and under weight
im also tempted to cut 3 bits of angle into wedge shapes and weld them onto a plate which will be which can be interchange on the lifter
as the armour is 3mm steel, i know the front 2 corners are in potential danger against spinners so im wandering weather to weld some 3mm strips on the corners to increase it to 6mm or weather it would be best to bolt either hdpe or some aluminium or even some stripped of grade 5 titainium ive been looking at
i'm already working out if i can save enough weight to put some 10mm hdpe panels on the sides or possibly 5-6mm cheap aluminium
Putting sacrificial lumps of HDPE on the corners sounds like a good idea. Anything to prevent them from cutting a gouge out of the steel, which an outer chunk of HDPE will do, as long as it's mounted firmly enough to not just get ripped off, is good.
Really looking forward to how this turns out. Naturally it will have a similar personality to Tormenta 2, it's going to be great seeing it work!
ok scruffy and night fury took a good bit of punishment at the 2013 champs, main faults with scruffy were a naff fuse connector and the deans used for the link also the main issue with night fury was the link which will be replace for something better
scruffy battering by TS3 was a great laugh but he managed to remove the tail that helped it self right and bent most of the bolts that held the lifter together and also chewed the angle round the sides and put a nice dent above one of they eyes and knocked a spike off, surprisingly they both still work fine and i think i will upgrade scruffy and build scruffy 2
Attachment 3620Attachment 3621Attachment 3622Attachment 3624Attachment 3625
night fury has chewed angle steel down the side and a few chew marks in the 8mm nothing managed to get through, lost 1 of my meet spikes to drumroll
in all the robots required better drivers and a few mods
done a minor mod to night fury ive have replace the Dean link for a xt60 in the hope it will not fall out and im also going to test a 3s lipo at the colchester event to see if it makes it easier to drive as it will only loose about 1 mph and it had plenty of speed at the gsl
second i cannot decide whether to retire scruffy and just use its parts to build scruffy 2 or whether to make a few mods and keep fighting it
Keep fighting it, the robots that are awesome seem to have been developed over a few years rather than totally re-designed.
I would keep it and get it running again to use at non competition events. Perhaps tweak it so that you can have a battery that you won't have to charge all day so that you don't have to worry about bringing extra kit. Its nice to have a simple machine that you can just drive.
Stupidly neither of our machines are like that so the 3rd robot design we're going to do will be a non-spinner.
well it still drive ok and the lifter works it was just the fuse connection and the link that gave me problems, but i was thinking of re designing how the lifter moves so it can self rite with out the tail and spikes and i suppose if i give it a bit less ground clearance at the back it might give it a better chance but im still intending to do scruffy 2 as i think ive spotted most of the flaws in the original but the shape will remain similar and i will keep they eyes and spikes (its main character)
ok scruffy 2 has now been started, it will be wider with a lower profile, but i'm still keeping the design of the head/lifter with the eyes and spikes and i'm also keeping it a similar shape
the lifter will be different at the front as the previous one was just a piece of 5mm mild steel which bent to easily and it wont require the tail and spikes at the back to self right
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps59b219bb.jpg
removed scruffys lifter and stuck it on top of scruffy 2 to see what it might look like, there will be more spikes on top of the new one and the front of the lifter will be more of a structure than the flat piece of steel at the mo
also looking at going for ti for the top panels
very hot today but i manage to do a bit more to scruffy, i think its starting to look like mr happy
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psec7cb6be.jpg
and i've ordered the gimson actuator so it will be allot faster than scruffy 1s
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6021d94e.jpg
Sweet, I think Scruffy will do pretty well in competitions in the future. Awesome skills mate :)
This is looking realy realy good!
Did you decide whether or not to use Makitas?
I would highly recomend them :)
ive got some makitas but they are going in a grabber im building for now i will stick with the ryobi 1s i used in scruffy and night fury, they gave me no problems and lots of speed/power
which makita drill did you go for ?, i got 4 of the 6281d so estimated to speed of about 15mph in high gear
also the chassis has been a pain to make with all the angle and trying to keep the weight down is difficult but it will look like a more evil version of the original scruffy, more spikes etc...
I'm not sure, will have to check on the outer case of the drill, but its out side in the garage at the mo.
I'll find out for you tommorow :)
Looking really good. Scruffy took some serious abuse and seemed very reliable. I agree with Harry, I think this is going to be a solid competitor.
Here you go: 6281D 14.4v
The same as yours :)
scruffy II can now self right (tested on 12v)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDt8ZGeLMIE
i have also made a more aggressive looking face plate and im looking at having a solid top plate with everything mounted upside down to it with a removable aluminium base plate which should save on weight
at the moment i cant decide whether to have a 3mm welded top with everything mounted to it and a removable base plate to get access.............or to do what i did with scruffy 1 and have the base plate welded in and everything mounted to that and make the top plates removable
the main bonus with scruffy 1s version was that it was easily replaceable if it got damaged and there was an air gap between the top and the components but with the other idea it would be lighter and i could put a sacrificial layer of polycarbonate or hdpe
any advice anyone ???????/
scruffy 2 has moved along a bit more the actuator has been moved right up the front just behind the face which puts it 1/2 and 2/3 from the pivot once the front of the lifter is added
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8dca7665.jpg
i also intend to put wheel arches to protect the tops of the wheels at the moment i cant decide whether to use a chunk of steel tube, as i have some 100mm di tube or to do something more like bigger brother
I can see a little bit of similarity to Bigger Brother already, so I'd be tempted to go for wheel arches of a similar style. The new eyes looks pretty evil as well, nice work :)
ok got the motors mounted, most of the re enforcement's and top plate welded in and mounted the actuator
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8e6c3900.jpg
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9832f397.jpg
now just waiting for the aluminium base plate