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This isnt too helpful but I can see that most of your issues are being resolved. But, One of the guys my team's partner is at the University of Malta and a member of the IEEE. Sent her the video you posted to see if she knows any of you guys. Small world :)
Didn't know Tormentia was built like that Ellis, and on that vid it looked a bit more than a ''little 'incident'' :roll: But now I think I got myself convinced to go the HDPE way, still waiting for 'directplastics' to reply re. shipping tho...
Do you bother coating the HDPE outer surface with something say Kevlar or something else to protect it from gauging and dents or its nor really worthwhile? Its just a thought...
Hi Tony, probably she'll recognise most of them (if she's not a first year) but she wont recognise me as I never attended Uni :oops: I'm the ''support/logistic/mechanical/design'' part of the team, my brother and his mates are the actual team - they'll handle anything which got to do with electrickery and wires! And finally they drive and have all the fun with it!
A few problems there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Liftoff
HDPE is a tough, soft, resilient,light material, chemicaly resistent against a lot of things, ranging from sodiumhydroxide to aqua regia. But it can't stand Benzene, toluene and Xylene.
And there is the problem. There is no glue, epoxy, paint or other adhesive that sticks to it with any meaningfull strength. Coating it in kevlar won't strengthen it, unless you make the kevlarlayer thick enough, and that beats the idea of using HDPE.
The 2 ways I use to connect 2 HDPE pannels are hot air welding and bolting/screwing the parts together (angle ali can be your friend here)
Right, so that will make my job easier, HDPE all round it will be, not worth the hassle and expense to try to cover it with kevlar which is not going to stick anyway then!
I'll use some light gauge alu box section for the chassis frame and bolt HDPE on to it. Is it easy to cut with a bandsaw or similar?
I also have some acrylic aircraft window panes which I think I'll use as a cover for the flipper top section, it should be out of reach there, and its nice to be able to see the internals without taking anything off!
I know most of you recommend to stay clear of acrylic but I've had these panes tested and they are quite indestructible (after a good beating with a hammer till the hand got numb!)
sounds like pollycarb then :P
That's what I thought initially, but I had a look at the manual and it said ''stretched acrylic'' so its probably gone through some process where it gets toughened or something of that sort...
What do material do you find suitable for the flipper arm construction? In mind I have either steel hollow section 1x1 welded in an L shape or HPDE bolted/bonded in an L shape, I'm thinking HDPE will be lighter and more compact but less strong than steel - what do you think?
Anyone knows where I can get a paintball bottle similar to this one:
http://www.paintnomore.de/co2--hp/co2-f ... lasche.php
Has to have the same dimensions especially the height of the cylinder, else it will be difficult to fit it inside, the dimensions of this one is 26x8cm, I've contacted them to see if they deliver over here but got no reply, guess I have to write aus deutsch!
Been searching the web for something similar but almost no one gives you any measurements :(
i think the size on all 12oz bottles are similar
oops I'm answering pneumatic questions again.
wait till.someone else tells you
looks like there are different sizes archie, most common seems to be 310mm incl valve, I need the one like in my previous post or similar, or else back to the drawing board :?