Cling Film?
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Cling Film?
With Cling film or tin foil your robot would be smashed to peices by Virus or 180 :lol:
(just had to say that)
Virus?
Pah! Not with brand name Cling Film I won't! That stuff's strong!
Virus is my 5000rpm kilo bot spinner
I'm using 3mm ali and 3mm polycarb for armour with a steel/ali frame
Pah!
Spinza is MY 5000rpm Beetle! So ner!
pah, 3mm? 12mm is on mine!!
12mm!! I'm surprised your not overweight with 3mm.
well, no big spinny thing helps
Well I have a flipping arm On my beetle which might scratch your paint work!!!
Virus will destroy your paint work though :)
How do I go about getting the FlightPower 40% discount?
I can't find the news post on the RoboChallenge website any more.
heres a tip, don't buy flightpower
I thought FlightPower were meant to be the dog's dangly bits in Li-Po?
yes flighpower are good, if they arrive
Flight power are one of the best lipo manufacturers. Best thing to do is ring them and set up an account with them. I'll pm the sponsorship information to you.
*NOOB QUESTION ALERT!*
Got some nice drill motors for Bitza 2.0 but I think maybe I'm kidding myself that the 15a Electronize's will handle them.
Here's the spec sheet;
http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-bin/ ... rs_775vcwc
We've got the 9013 but we're running at 22.2v, not 18v.
20.9a draw at maximum efficiency, the Electronize's can handle that in bursts but thought I'd offer it up to everyone else?
Could always reduce the output on the ESC.
What size wheels are you running them off?
The other thing to keep in mind is that chances are the wheels will lose traction and slip before they stall so the speedo won't ever see the full stall current from the motors. The electronize should have 15amp fuses in line with them (I usually up these to 20amps) which will blow before the speedos are screwed over.
Stalling a drill motor in boner during the champs when the left thread came loose, the fuses blew saving the electronize. So do some experimentation!
The other option is to remove the relay that the controller comes with and replace it with 2 30amp automotive relays.
im running 4 of those motors, each on a electronize 30a at 24v :proud:
worked it out at being around the 3.5hp overall
The wheels are 170mm, but they are geared after the drill motor gear box. Don't know the size of the cogs off the top of my head.
The Electonize's have 40a burst ratings, so I'm assuming a 20a fuse will have the same sort of life time as the burst.
I think you mentioned changing the relay before. One of them is sticking so it'll be worth changing them anyway.
Do I need to change anything else on the ESC other than the relay? I'm assuming it's just a 'straight' swap.
where do you fit the inline 20amp fuse? before the speed contoller or before the motor?
You fit a fuse on the positive battery power lead to the electronize.
Yeah, it's just a straight swap. You have to desolder the relay which can be a pain then solder wires the holes left over, these lead out to the two relays that you are best mounting onto the plastic housing outside.
A featherweight would never be able to put 3.5hp into the ground unless it has magnets and even then, the motors will likely burn out before any meaningful time has passed.
540 for example........
Cheers Gary, I'll give it a bash and see how it goes!
oi :proud:
haha ;)
Anyone know of a neat solution to get around the stupid half-travel when using the built in mixing of a Spektrum DX5E?
No one?
I other news! I've found the Como motors people are finding popular in Beetle's to really struggle on torque. To the point whereby my Beetle can't actually turn, because the friction from the tyres is too great. So I'm now in the rather odd situation of reducing the grip of the wheels....
What have other people's experiences of these motors been?
From what I've read, there isn't a fix for the half servo throws on the dx5i? I do recall somewhere on the net someone actually altering the insides of theirs but I could be wrong.
ive spilled coke inside my dx5e and it didn't seem to help :?
Use a mixer in line with your drive channels on board the robot and keep the dx5 mixing off. most dual motor controllers have a mixing function built in
Just trying to avoid adding more components.
Its seems such a odd feature, what use does it have?
I'm using a Sabertooth 2x12 and it seems to have some strange characteristics on the built in mixing. All straight movements on the stick seem to have half power, and all diagonal movement (so moving only one motor) seems to have twice the power.
Dimension Engineering said this was odd, and suggested that maybe my battery just couldn't supply the amps to turn both motors at full whack simultaneously.
I thought this too, but I'm using a 3S 20c 2650mah Li-Po which should be able to supply more than enough power.
Obviously this is causing me great problems since I lack torque to tank turn effectively and my straight line speed and acceleration is half what it could be.
Any ideas? (I'm using those MFA Como motors)
Cheers,
Try turning the mixing off on the esc.... Then throttle up so both channels are running flat out (move stick to top left or right position for example) then compare your results to running with the mixing on... If it's better I'd suggest a dodgy mixing function on the esc.
Good idea, I'll give it a try.
What radio gear are you using?
Spektrum DX5E Tx and one of the cheapy DSM2 Rx's from Giant Cod.
Are you using the mixing on the transmitter aswell?
No I'm not because it has those stupid half throws.
Sorted.
Apparently if you have Switch 6 not in R/C mode then this effects the mixing.
I had it in this mode because this is the only way I could get the drive to fail safe. Something else I can't seem to get to work.
If I am in R/C mode when I shut off the Tx the motors creep forward and no matter how I try and adjust the trims, set the sticks on start up, or re-bind I can't stop it from happening.
Furthermore the lost signal shutdown never comes into operation, which would have me believe it is a problem with the Rx. Except it can't be due to what I described above about not being in R/C mode.
*brain explodes*
Got a problem with Spinza where the blade is no longer able to spin up.
At first I thought the problem lay in the fact that because the Ti is so bendy in some position it was putting additional strain on the timing belt. After faffing around for a few hours adjusting the tightness of the belt for a few hours I found this made little difference.
I've re-assembled, greased and oiled the blade assembly and it now spins free-er than ever but still refuses to spin up. In a check we started the blade spinning with a long piece of wood (chocks away!) and it was perfectly able to then spin up.
It's like the motor has lost all of it's torque, so before I start swapping bits out and spending money just thought I'd get other opinions?
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The pulley on the motor shaft also came loose before I could do much testing, and I managed to get oil on the main pulley so had some issues with belt slip!