Ok, so go for a fairly lower mAh then? something in the 2k to 3k region?
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Ok, so go for a fairly lower mAh then? something in the 2k to 3k region?
that should see you through a couple of fights.
3k will do you fine.
Bit confused by that post?Quote:
Originally Posted by harry hills
So something like this then Gary: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12v-NiMH-3300m...item3353c52b76?
Still confused about the speed controllers too! What specs I should be looking for etc. :crazy:
Yes they do, if you contact the Robo Challenge guys direct and ask for some to be made up. They don't have them available to order on their webstore though, possibly because not many people use them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hard Time
But if he's running Speed 900s he won't need the ones with nut inserts anyway.
Gary, loving how the new version is looking! Will have to have a prod about it for curiosity's sake when I see it :)
The DX5 on the robo challenge site I'm a bit wary about getting since it's an old model, do they still sell the recievers for them if I were to need a back up?
The DX5e uses DSM2 technology, which means any DSM2 compatible receiver should work with it. Take your pick: http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trks ... Categories
I combined mine with one of these handsets when it cost £11.99: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Spektrum-Controll ... 3cadc35762
and got a 2.4GHz setup for £22 (which is already more reliable than the Radio Link sets)
That transmitter is very basic though, the DX5e has a lot more to offer.
What exactly does it have to offer? I can't really see anything of importance, probably due to my pure ignorance. :roll: :lol:
I have 11 tabs open and I refuse to open another so I keep switching from Your build thread to this every five seconds to check if I need to reply to anything! :lol:
You know, when tabs were first introduced, I really wasn't keen on them. I don't know why I was being so stubborn but I just refused to use them. Love them now though, had an insane number of them open when trying to compare hotels and book rooms for the upcoming FW champs!
Anyway, I've just had a quick look at the DX5e specs and it doesn't actually have that much extra compared to that transmitter I linked to (the E-Flite). They both have servo reversing functions and dual rates, although they'll probably be adjustable on the DX5e, don't think you can do that with the E-Flite. The main differences are that the DX5e has an extra channel and built-in mixing. Being used to standard transmitters such as Futaba, I found the E-Flite one to be really plasticy and cheap (to be expected at that price though) and the sticks felt very loose to move. But I tried driving Drumroll with it and it felt perfectly fine with a similar response to every other transmitter I've used. It's up to you though, I'd say the DX5e feels more like a proper radio transmitter but if you're not too fussed by things like that, then the E-Flite for £15 would do the job.
I can't see how you've got the drum on drumroll spinning? There's nothing connecting it to the motor! :lol:
Talking of chains, would a cog and chain (What's the technical term?) Be more efficient supplying the other wheels than a belt and sprockets?
Thanks for your help so far guys, you've all been amazingly helpful and I know it's cliche but thanks for using your own time to answer my questions! :D
Edit: Sorry I didn't see your post Jamie! Hmm, I think also that if I get a DX5e it'll last me longer, and therefore will end up being a better buy, by mixing do you mean you can change the drive type? Or max speed of the motors?
i beleive you mean sprockets and chain compared to belts and pulleys :) not sure what one would be best but i beleive you can get a higher amount of teeth on a pulley for the diameter than a sprocket.
i am firmly against tabs, mainly as i can't use expose with them (one of my favourite features of a mac) but also as it insists with opening 12 small web pages that i've visited recently instead of opening google (my home page). the opening of 12 mini web pages often crashes my computer aswell :angry:
Jamie what was that combo you used to convert your 40meg system? Wouldn't mind using my old futaba system at the champs :)
It was the Corona DIY conversion kit: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/corona-24ghz- ... 05857.html
It used to come with an 8ch receiver but that's no longer supplied with the kit (hence the kit being cheaper) so you have to buy it separately. There are three available:
4ch: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/24ghz-corona- ... 03381.html
6ch: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/24ghz-corona- ... 03382.html
8ch: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/24ghz-corona- ... 03383.html
I had some powering up issues with mine but I believe that to be a faulty receiver, as the Nipper guys used the same system without any problems, but once it was powered up, it worked well. For the relatively low cost it's certainly worth a punt though.
Yeah as Jonny has mentioned, it tends to be sprockets with chains and pulleys with belts :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Roland
I consider both chains and belts to be pretty efficient in terms of transmitting drive. Chains are less forgiving, so if you try to push something that's too heavy there could be a risk of stressing out part of your drive system, whereas pulleys and belts might act like a clutch and slip, relieving some of the stress and protecting your components. Belts and pulleys are the lighter option although sometimes it's cheaper to buy chains and sprockets. I'd say either arrangement would work for your drive.
Yeah I'd say the DX5e will probably be more durable and last longer so may be worth the investment (still got my £120 radio from eight years ago that works a treat).Quote:
Edit: Sorry I didn't see your post Jamie! Hmm, I think also that if I get a DX5e it'll last me longer, and therefore will end up being a better buy, by mixing do you mean you can change the drive type? Or max speed of the motors?
Each axis of movement on a transmitter is one radio channel, and each side of drive on your robot uses one channel. Conventional tank-style steering is where the left-hand stick forward/back moves the left-hand side of the drive forward/back and likewise for the right stick/drive. So to drive forward, you push both sticks forward. Mixing allows you to have your drive controlled from just one of the transmitter sticks, much like a computer gaming joystick. So pushing the stick forward moves the whole robot forward, pushing the stick left turns the whole robot left etc.
The max speed of the motors is something that can be changed using the Dual Rates function (or Hi/Lo function as it seems to be called on the DX5e). Normally you set the rates to a percentage of the full power - say 50% - and you can toggle it with a switch, so for example you can turn it on during a battle and cut the top speed of the motors to 50% should you need a bit less speed and more control.
Sounds like a plan! Almost everything prepared. What I'll do is buy the majority of stuff I need and then get back to speed controllers later. Unfortunately I can't go to the FW championship this year because I'm in Greece! Hope everyone has fun though.
thanks again everyone. :D
Sorry, clocked this earlier but completely forgot to reply. The CAD program I use is called Solid Edge, and the copy I have is an academic version obtained through uni. It cost £5 for the license, but naturally the full commercial version will be much more expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roland
One of the main industry-standard CAD programs is Solidworks. I used to have a copy but lost it when my laptop broke, but I would say it is better than Solid Edge. Again it is very expensive to buy the full program but you could either download it...ahem..legally....or get someone to do it for you and put it on a disc. But if anyone asks, I didn't tell you that :wink:
Just going back to the RC thing I would really reommend the planet T5 for robotics as it is quite cheap and reliable(I use it ). If you have more money go for the Dx5e as it has a built in failsafe and extra cool features.
I have both of them and prefer the Dx5e as it is overall better but the t5 is fine.
Both solidworks and solid edge don't work on macs and I can't be bothered to download a virtual pc just for cad software. Thanks for the info though, I'll bear it in mind if I buy a new laptop, I'll probably get one or the other.
I'll probably stick with DX5e Ben, it's not overly expensive and it's all I really need to be honest though we'll see, might end up going tight for cash.
Will the motors need custom gears making or can you buy pre made ones?
Thanks everyone. :)
Wondering what people's thought's were on using hinges? Either skirts as themselves, or fitting them onto sloped sides for 0 ground clearance? Do they tend to bend when hit by spinners? Or do they manage ok? Piano hinges preferably.
Thanks :D
I wouldn't bother. Have one side, the front, skim the ground and you should be fine.
Yeah the dx5e is fine, what are you using hinges for?
Since I'm having sloped sides to my bot I was wondering how I could get minimal ground clearance, hinges seemed like an idea since they move themselves appropriately for minimum ground clearance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hard Time
what would happen if I got underneath your sides and lifted your sides up?
Flipper wise the actual snap of the flipper would push me up less than if it was attached, but the plate on the end of the hing would make the air born part a bit more erratic, lifter wise, not much I could probably drive away. The purpose of the hinges is so that you can't get underneath, so that would never happen anyway.
You can't say never when fighting in the arena. Things will happen in there that you either won't expect or won't have accounted for.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roland
My personal opinion is that skirts/hinges are pretty redundant in robot combat today. The only floor they'd most likely be suited to is the Robo Challenge floor; having the heavyweights being flipped and bouncing all over the RR and RL floors means there are usually a few lips and bumps for the feathers to negotiate and these can be prime areas for skirts and hinges to get snagged/stuck/jammed upon.
If you're going to be flipped, you're going to be flipped. A ground-skimming flipper blade with the entire force of the robot and bungees holding it down is most likely going to get under a ground-skimming skirt with just the weight of the hinges/skirt material holding it down. I prefer to leave a reasonable amount of ground clearance (5mm-8mm) and make sure that the robot is invertible or can self-right. That way you are less likely to get stuck on the floor of any of the arenas, yet can still keep fighting when flipped.
Just my two centimos anyway :)
Hmmm, what if you were to grind down the corners on the hinge? Surely that would stop it from catching if you placed the hinge on the bottom and had a fixed wedge?
I think I'm going to redesign this thing so it works both ways up. I'm off to see my dad for a bit but I'll CAD a new design I've just thought of when I get back.
Well, I've tried it and it doesn't appear to work greatly. I'm gonna stick with my plan for now, unless anyone has any genuine ideas of the body style. :lol:
Interested about what would happen with blunt cornered hinges, I think work quite well in theory.
Vapextech don't have their own chargers for the 3300mAh so what charger should I get?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12v-NiMH-3300mAh- ... 3353c52b76?
I've made about 130 quid so far to spend :L Not much but I'm getting some more for my bday in april :D And then pocket money will probably buy the rest!
Thanks again :)
Ordered Motors and my 6 blue wheels :D Going to get the RC for birthday on the 15th and some spending money to add to the cause! Had another look at chargers for the batteries and I can't find anything, it's becoming quite frustrating, why would you sell 12v Batteries but no 12v output chargers? I'm clearly being a dolt.
if its a 12v nimh/nicad charger your after try componant shop.
This is what I use to charge my 12v Ni-Mh. It runs off a 12v lead acid
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/power-balance ... 02624.html
another charger that is very reliable
http://www2.ripmax.net/item.asp?itemid= ... ry=090-020
Thanks for your quick replies guys! Very helpful, The chargers look cheaper than I expected them to be! Which is somewhat of a relief. :lol: I'm pretty set for now then :D Something that started bugging me even though I've not at that stage yet is how to lengthen axles? You can't really weld things on as you have to have it exactly straight, so can you buy sleeves that fit on? or just make your own?
make your design smaller of buy a new axel :proud:
hi roland i am also soon to be 14 (in may) and like u i also like engineering and electronics and my uncle has a garage were he builds replica f1 cars out of fiberglass and stuff so we have a lot in common nice to meet you! ps whats ur second name? thanks ashley webbQuote:
Originally Posted by Roland
In reply your above post my second names Spencer. :)
Well, the whole plans gone a bit shambles, but it's also sort of good I suppose, my graupners which I ordered on the 3rd of april, still hadn't come so I've gone and asked them to refund me as apparently Graupner are having factory issues so they doubted I'd get them any time soon. After speaking to John Frizell I think I might use drill motors instead; trouble is I have 8 (I originally bought 6?) 125mm castor wheels without nut inserts, so I'm not entirely sure what I should do with them...?
buy nuts, heat them with a soldering iron (leave it on them for a long time) and press them in, and hey presto, you got wheels which nut inserts. As long as the bore is less than around 12mm?
Worst case throw them on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3-8-UNF-HEX-FULL- ... 3f099c26a3
Hmm, sounds simple enough. Thanks!
I'm not seeing the 10 quid difference between
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...er/7112812.htm
and
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...er/7112953.htm ?
:mrgreen:
i'll take a pair of 125mm with nut insert if you're making them :)
Haha! I doubt I'll make 8 without a pair going wrong, but we'll see.
Got my 18v drills from argos, some reason only 18 quid: http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...rewdrivers+%2F
I remember seeing a tutorial on how to dismantle them so if anyone has the link could they send it my way? Thanks :D