Pneumatic

thanks for the nice comments guys! :) Tho my shop is usually a massive mess! I did a little more work on it today on my day off. I have to go to class for the evening, but I will probably work on it more when I get home. I will mill the other belt slot, lathe a new piston, and lathe a support for the arm mounts. Then all I really have left is to make the arms and armor. In that order. Weight is looking good.. A few new pics.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/wazio88/album?.dir=7a41http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/wazio88/album?.dir=7a41

And more work still today! Did a little CAD (cardboard aided design) and got the shape or my armor set out. When it is all said and done I will have about 10 pounds left for the arm and armor. Version 2 of the bot will be alot better on weight, but I think 10lb is enough to have 1/4 AL armor with Ti bolted to the bottom few inches. look on the yahoo page for pictures.

Do you forsee any problems with .......what appears to be .......an offset cylinder and flipper pivot arrangement?

nope... But it could happen. We shall see.

Would create a twisting force and therefore more friction methinks, but then again I havent seen what linkage layout your gonna be using.

looks like it wasnt designed to have the ball valve in between ram and valve that would bring it to centre if not

That is true. I did not want to have that thing in the system. But the safty person at the event that I am going to said that I had to have it :-\

The arm is going to be rather beefy to make up for the twist that will be going on. The next frame will have a different tank layout so the shape will be alot different.

Nope. I did not want to have that ball valve, but the safty boss at the event that I am going to go to says that I need to have it. Inorder to try to keep the whole thing from twisting I am going to make the upper arm really beefy. . . Might work well, might suck. I have no idea! We shall find out soon enough.

Can you or that safety official from the event explain to me what possible use that ball valve has?


(Message edited by leo-rcc on February 01, 2006)

Does it replace the locking pin wed be forced to use?
Instead of us having a bracket or pin to prevent the arm from moving, maybe they have a valve to prevent the gas from getting into the cylinder in the first place...
I guess it could be slightly safer, with the dump valve open, and that ball valve closed.. if theres a misfire there wont be the strain on the locking pins?

The bot is being entered in Motorama ......Al Kindle is the safety official.


I personally cant see the need for the valve ...... but .......Al of course has the right to impose any safety features that he decrees necessary.

http://www.nerc.us/http://www.nerc.us/
http://www.nerc.us/rules.htmlhttp://www.nerc.us/rules.html

(Message edited by woody on February 01, 2006)

Rob, it is inherently unsafe.
A Burkert needs a pressude differential of 1 bar to close down perfectly In a normal system the size of the hoses and resistance in the system gives this valve the chance to do its job, withoud endangering anyone.
Combine it with a screw valve on the bottle opening slow and the Dantomkia/ Bigger Brother style extended ram locking pin nothing can happen, even if the burkert failed.

Put in a ball valve in between the main valve and the ram reduces the size of the system downstream, acting like a initial buffer, as it would fill with CO2 at full pressure. Opening that ball valve would send in a rush of CO2 bigger than the trickle normaly could happen.

According to me, the safetyguy there is just grasping at straws to avoid the dangerously explosive high pressure pneumatics

Looking at the layout the ball valve will be under the flipper arm. So that means you have to stick you arms into a loaded robot to make it safe. It would be much safer to have a locking pin which you can sneak up behind the robot to insert. I think the saftey official has made the robot more dangous to turn off then if the valve wasnt there.
Actually if your arms are in the robot under the flipper arm trying to turn it off, where is your head? Oh, I dont like that at all.

I am with you guys. . . I dont like it at all. It just adds about 8oz that I could use for something else. But, I have to have it. So I got over it and in the bot it is. I hope to have the armor done this weekend and maybe part of the arm. . . Pics as I get stuff done.

Got the base plate milled out today. So now I will wire it all up, install everything and then this weekend I will do the arm and the armor. Pic on profile.

Cant wait to see a video of it during battle.

Put a new picture of it up on my profile and look at the yahoo page for all of the new ones. I have to wake up in 6 hours to go do the armor and finish up the drive. More pics tomorrow night.

Did the armor today might do the drive later tonight if I get the energy. Pic of profile and yahoo page.

How come you put the grinder over everything but your welds?

How come you put the grinder over everything but your welds?:)

doh!

loosing it in your old age dave :)

cuz i ground it all before i welded. and i like how the beads look.

I did alot of work today, tho not enough. . .

Pookie is now 100% all done. New batt in it and wazio sticker to add sexy looks. 150grams on my scale. Hope it wont grow on me during the flight.

http://www.buildersdb.com/botpics/4139.jpghttp://www.buildersdb.com/botpics/4139.jpg

Get Stuffed has a new blade, gears, motor, wheels, armor ECT. . . + the wazio sticker for extra sexy looks! 100% done and right at 1lb on my scale.

http://www.buildersdb.com/botpics/3323.jpghttp://www.buildersdb.com/botpics/3323.jpg

Wedgio got its new wedge all done and on. All I need to do is slap on the wheels and its done.

-see profile pic-

And last I did the armor on High Roller (Gary did the good welds :-p). I really wanted to get it driving tonight but I am had an issue with a drive unit.... I am sure I can get it done in some way, but the arm will be gay, the armor mounts will not be how I want them to be. All around, just not 100% what I wanted to make. I just dont have enough time. So, What do yall think I should do.?. Just slap it together, run it in getto mode and see what happens, Or skip it at moto and get it 100% the way I want it for the next event. . . What say yall?

http://www.buildersdb.com/botpics/4272.jpghttp://www.buildersdb.com/botpics/4272.jpg

i still dont like the blue and yellow paint on Pookie. Whats wrong with Titanium-Color? AND ive found out that a ETEC 250mah 3 cell lipo pack works great on DBA-ish robots and weights the same as the pack thats currently in, (the 2 cell 350mah)

b.t.w. Bradley was going to fix you a Blue Kevlar/Carbon Body for Pookie, but seems to have vanished from the earth and doesnt reply on emails.

He is really into some computer game. He needs to get off his ass and do that. I got a new batt because I broke mine ripping it out of the body to get at the Rx. I am happy with the 2 cell batt, and the paint is just cuz I can :-p Back out to the shop. to make a drive belt! AWWWWWW so much to do!

yeah, i solved the battery problem in mine by taking double sided tape instead of epoxy :D

Shoo goo and CA glue. . . But I had a little to much shoo goo and it was a real bit$h to get it out. after a while I just said fu#k it and ripped it out with a pair of plyers. I dont have to time to muck around all nice with them damn bots. . If it dont come out next time I will just hit it with a hammer :)

Theres the right way, the wrong way and t3h Wazio way :proud:

Did High Roller get done in time for moto and if so how did it do

I havent seen it mentioned in the event reports and im sure that ive read that he didnt get finished in time.

Chris - ^_^

Nope, did not get done in time... I am going to re-design the whole thing after I finish it!!! The only thing that I have left to really do is weld up an arm. Other than that, it got all done. Soon, soon I hope!!! 2 jobs and school has been having me going like crazy lately!

~Chad

Is there a quick connect fitting that will give high flow and handle full bottle pressure? I am thinking of using a hydraulic fitting, but I dont know if it will leak.

Thanks

Not to my knowledge. If you want any good flow youll need a large quick connect coupling, and those are heavy.

But leaking. They will after a while, most kinds of Orings dont like liquid CO2.

Thank you

Has anyone tried using a 1/4 turn ball valve activated by a cordless drill to pressurise a HP ram? I have seen that Paul Cooper uses a LP ram to open a 1/4 turn ball valve in M2XT.

a high torque servo would probably be better, and i think has been used before, drill would be too big and hard to control just to do 1/4 turn.

Might open abit slow to get the full flowrate that the valve can produce, hence why paul opted for pneumatic operation i pressume.

other option may be a big solenoid, you would probably need two though, one to push each way.