Drills

The tool seller at my local car boot sale had Nutool 30v cordless drills with charger and two battery packs for £30 each.

The challenge 24v drills at argos are half price are they any good?

Yeah, but having two back-to-back in a feather takes up a load of space.

hmmm how much space? How about 14.4v or 18v?

Well, more space than 12, 14.4 and 18v drills which all usually have the same motor (550) and gearbox.

wonder if anyone can give me a hand.

I was hoping to use a drill motor but because of space that may not be possible. I am looking ideally for a motor thats 5cm in length with the same power and weight of a drill motor (just over 200g). The diameter does not matter. It will be used to spin a 2kg disc so something that is more torque than rpm would also be good.

I doubt there is anything out there but thats why I am asking you guys!

Depends on your budget - have you looked into an Astro Gary? For a spinning disc an Astro is one of the most popular at the moment.

Mr Stu

http://www.robotcombat.com/marketplace_motorsmisc.htmlhttp://www.robotcombat.com/marketplace_motorsmisc.html
Maybe a mini ev with a drill gearbox on it ?

budget = cheap

The mini ev is availible in some Euro cars powering the fan motors or heater fans .

Id advise against using the Mini EV at 24v, or even 18v under too much load, ive blown a couple that way. Id be very surprised if you could get anything very cheap which is that small and that light. Cobalt flight motors or brushless motors, maybe, but thatd be a costly alternative. Id go for thingaps on a BIG reduction, friction maybe, if I had the dosh (http://www.robotcombat.com/images/TG3200_series.pdf)

You might want to look at HTI Replacement motors here http://www.robotcombat.com/marketplace_motorsmisc.htmlhttp://www.robotcombat.com/marketplace_motorsmisc.html cheap, but youd have to pay the postage from the US

A few of these maybe? (three might just do) http://www.distel.co.uk/asps/details.asp?ID=38018PT18&ER=0.5475&CY=USD&AP=32.88http://www.distel.co.uk/asps/details...Y=USD&AP=32.88

they may well do, the main problem is the height although i may jst say sod it and forget about making it invertable then

http://www.distel.co.uk/asps/details1.asp?ID=LJ14http://www.distel.co.uk/asps/details1.asp?ID=LJ14

something like this but a bit bigger would be ideal

Julian, those are the ones we use. We remade the gearbox and its smaller than the 18V ones and fits entirely inside the wheel.

the mini ev works at 24v with enough reduction. plan b runs them at 24v with a 34:1 reduction on the drive.

theres a drumbot on the way thats got a drum powered by 2x mini evs so ill let you now how it goes.

Silly Question:

Ive seen a lot of FWs with the entire drill used as the motor. Is this really nessesary ? I dont know if you can use the motor right out of the drill and attach to your wheels, or whether is has to run through a transmission

Gray, i dont think that those pancake motors, even with many of them will be upto the job. Have you looked at using bevel gears or somethong along that line to be abl;e to use the motor on its side and so use a larger motors.

i dont think so either.

I havent but as i said earlier my main problem is weight (then again when is it ever not a problem!)

i believe you said you needed a motor 5cm tall or so?

how about one of these fan motors -

http://www.robowars.org/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=538http://www.robowars.org/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=538

there from mitsubishi TR magnas if youve got those out your way.

they are extremely flat at like 20-30mm tall and have ridiculous power at 24v. they spin a 1.7kg disk up to 4000rpm or so quite nicely in about 5 seconds tops. there a type of thingap motor in there design. only about 700g in weight.

david - yes you do have to run them through a reduction of some form. the drill is just easier to use. nothing stopping you from running it through a belt or chain drive but if you mean can you attach a wheels straight to the motor shaft then no... they wont have enough torque to move a feather.

now something like that would be good, pos on the heavy side but i was gonna upgrade to ni-mh from SLAs at some point anyways.

Im trying to source one on the net at the mo, any ideas where the best place to get one would be?

go down to your local scrappy, there will be loads of beefy old car fan motors. will usually only cost about a fiver. the smaller the car, the smaller the motor.

ive only seen them in the magnas before

http://www.mynrma.com.au/images/1/rt_mittr.jpghttp://www.mynrma.com.au/images/1/rt_mittr.jpg

there made by nippon denso if thats any help, possibly look up a mitsubishi or spare parts place on the net. theyd be expensive brand new though.

gary, e-mail me with your requirements, chances are I have pleanty of options in stock for you.
cheers
JB

i Belive they are also availible in Mirages as well

would the dustin 1 motor be any good for featherweights? (http://www.robotcombat.com/marketplace_dustin.htmlhttp://www.robotcombat.com/marketplace_dustin.html)

Bit overkill, and WAY to expensive.

For that amount of money I can build a full geartrain and have electronizes on them. And that geartrain can pull a heavy.(unfortunatly, not for 5 minutes at one go at combat power)

yeah just thought it wud be a killer drivetrain IF i had the money (which i dont!)

Thingaps would be a more realistic drive train, yet again very expensive though.

Just wondering do i really need to support my drill on both side when i mount them eg one at geatbox and one at drill motor ?

you mean one mount on the D section of the gearbox and one mount over the motor?

if so then yes. ive done the one end support and it worked less then well.

Ive run a single mounting point on the gearboxes in my old spinner with 9.6v drill motors on 12v and Ive never broken a gearbox in it in 2 years. I believe it allows a bit of flex and movement which takes a lot of stress off the gearbox itself.

Glen has his supported both sides and has broken over 10 gearbox in his life span ;) But plenty of other robots have done the same thing and never broken any ie: KO, Stainless Steel Rat, Mouse Wedge.

Its all up to you basically :)

In all our kits weve never had a problem. they are mounted over the gearbox. they are also avalible for purchase

anybody got any dimensions of the challenge 18v or 14.4v drills for my cad drawings?

Question:

I cant attach wheels directly to drill motors, but I can attach them to a drill chuck output (the small motors used on the Zeobots have mini gearboxs in them and they seem to do fine).

I take the left hand screw out of the center of the chuck and unscrew the chuck, then thread the wheels directly onto the gearbox of the drill motors. 95% of the aussie bots follow this method.

We found the easiest way was to mill down the chuck and screw it back onto the motor shaft. we then pushed the wheel over the milled chuck and screwed through the wheel into the chuck. We found this to be the most practical solution at the time. I agree this may not be the best way to do it but we found it ok.
Obviously it is heavier than screwing the wheel straight to the motor shaft but as the center of the wheels i had where larger than the motor shaft this seemed to be a good option.

Just a word of warning, if you are looking at using the motors in the zeobots then make sure that axle for the wheel is supported on BOTH sides of the wheel. Otherwise the result will be broken gearboxes every fight!

I have been wondering if i could solder on a crimp spade onto the end of my drill motor tabs

Heres a link of what i mean
http://www.teamrollingthunder.com/Featherweight/Xi_2_0/June_2__2005/june_2__2005.htmlhttp://www.teamrollingthunder.com/Fe...5/june_2__2005 .html

Why wouldnt you Alistair? The only thing is you will need to get the appropriate sized crimp. I personally just solder the wire to the tab.