Lift the arm out the way around spinners?
Printable View
Lift the arm out the way around spinners?
The easier option is to Make it so that the arm face is maybe 5-10mm behind the front armour when its retracted so it cant be hit, and you only fire it when it is not going to get ripped off... *hint hint* ;)
I don't know what you mean Alex...
http://cdn.makeagif.com/media/10-23-2014/bxYO5X.gif
Although I'm pretty sure I just drove up into the disk rather than I tried to lift the air in front of Binky lol Pretty cool sparks though:
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...psf2859a36.jpg
The rear wheels will have gears and then belt drive to the front wheels.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flag Captured
Ziggy's flipper arm recesses into the frame and after seeing it up close & personal a few years ago, I can vouch that its very effective. Its probably not a popular idea, but have you considered going 2 wheel drive and using the spare weight on the flipper & armour?
Might ruin the design a little but it would probably be worth ditching the front wheels and having all the weight over the flipper where you want it?
I have considered just going two wheel drive and it doesn't effect the overall design really, quite easily just left out. I'm open to any ideas at the moment to get it in weight and be as effective as possible.
Also Nick I've taken a few stills and GIFs from my fights at the champs:
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...ps96ec9864.jpg
Got you hooked :P
http://cdn.makeagif.com/media/10-23-2014/mYwkQ1.gif
Oops! I really didn't see that coming when I designed the roll-over hoops.
I was thinking that if you went 2WD, the front of the bot could be tapered in to save material and some parts could be put in the wheel wells where the belts used to run
Here is a photo of Ziggy, showing how the front wedge and the arm work together:
http://www.nswrfc.org/Nick/IMGA0081.jpg
If you tapered the frame in at the front, you could add a Hardox wedge without adding too much weight.
I love how in both of those gifs Hatchet is sitting immobile in the corner :p, making the front similar to Ziggy sounds like a good idea though, just to give the arm that little extra protection.
Although a wedge infront of the flipper arm would protect the arm from spinners, most flippers seem to rely on the lip for most of their flips so it might lead to you not getting as many flipping oppertunities in fights.
Redesign in the works... seem to have some spare weight at the moment :D
It would be fine. If your protective blade gets under them then you are good to flip. Also your blade will probably be stronger than their flipper edge so its less likely to be twisted by spinners and made useless.
Current design of Ziggy, uhh I mean Loki 2, still playing around with the details.
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...ps38bb3a52.png
Looking good! If you have any spare weight, add a horizontal strip to the back of the wedge at ground height. Even a 20mm strip will make the leading edge far stronger and bend resistant.
After advice on the motor mounts I've designed, bit restricted for space at the rear end so I've come up with this:
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...psa06116e0.png
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...ps77214ef3.png
The top two bolts are m6 80mm, and the bottom is the 14mm aluminium wheel axle, bored 5mm into the 15mm HDPE side and held in place with m6 bolts (don't tell Ellis that I steal all his ideas). Worried it might be a bit vulnerable being attached to the sides?
Also the mount I've designed in 6mm 'Ecocast' aluminium. Overkill? Adequate?
Cheers
Is the axle fixed or rotating? I would move the top screws down as close to the wheel as possible to minimise the effect of flexing in the plastic on the gear mesh. Is the motor mount attached to the base plate or just the sides?
It's a fixed axle, good idea about moving the screws. As it stands it's only attached to the sides.
As your in the design stage, I would urge you to move the motors so they're side by side. For you this is easily achievable because of your gearing set up. Reducing the width will reduce your overall size, meaning more wieght for armour. Out if interest what are the overall measurements?
Will the wheel have a bronze bush or bearing in it or will it just spin directly on the axle?
Gabe I have considered side by side motors the only problem is the bottles lie lengthways on either side of the arm so I it needs to be that width to accommodate them anyway and the whole thing would either have to be longer so the motors go behind the ram or alternatively in the spaces where the bottles are now so then would probably have to be taller. Also I've got the motors with gears welded on already lol.
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...ps82c7d817.png
Max I've got some Oilon to make bushings, do they just reduce friction and wear?
I'll let Ellis give a full run down on just how amazing Oilon is.
Ahh I see so what are your overall measurements?
500 x 338 x 113
Aluminium is terrible as a bearing surface as it is one of the worst metals for galling http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling. Using a plastic Oilon bearing will help a lot but I would definitely recommend using one of the harder grades of aluminium, polishing the surface AND lubricating it.
Is there any shaving available on the 500 measurement? The smaller you make it now the better you'll be at the end when your struggling with weight.
Again restricted by length of the bottle + motors unless I shorten it and put the bottles above the motors but will have to be taller again. The main body is 410 with an 'empty' wedge giving the extra 90.
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...ps33a2b384.png
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...psa7bbd161.png
Thanks for the advice Nick, I'm all new to custom transmission. I've been a drill motor guy so far so any advice is very welcomed. Is 6082T6 suitable?
hey! I've not looked through your hole build thread so im not too sure, but are you have just a single pair of wheels at the far back?
if you are i'd consider moving them at least to the middle or at least more forward cause you'll find it with handle horribly!
4 wheel drive would be cool, unless that's what your doing anyway in which case egnor me!
6082 is not a bad choice; its harder than 6061 so unless you can find some 7075 its worth trying. It usually has a rough surface finish so giving it a polish with fine sandpaper will be time well spent.
You need space for the main valve too, and the piping ain't small either.
Also, a wider machine is easier to drive. And the placement of the wheels is fine in the back. It's what we prefer.
I used 14mm 7075 super-polished wheel shafts and oilon for bushings. The belt tension puts huge sideload on the bushings and in my case, the oilon was a total flop. It's too soft. I ended up having to bore the bushings way oversize to loosen the belts to get to an acceptable amount of friction. I intend to run regular nylon next year. Bearings would be ideal but can fail, whereas a nylon bushing with low enough friction is indestructable, so not a bad compromise.
I prefer sinterbronze. And if space and/or weight won't allow, SKF sinter steel/oilbushings.
Not on alu shafting :)
How about using a steel tube with an aluminium core to save weight? you can get a much better polish on steel or you could use needle roller bearings, which will probably be easier to fit in the wheel hubs that regular ball bearings. More work for sure, but guaranteed low friction.
MDF Pretendobot at the ready
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...psodoybfba.jpg
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...pspivtc8c6.jpg
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/...pswtn98uyy.jpg
Feedback and advice appreciated :)
Rematch!! Looks great man, 4 bars are just so cool.
This is looking very special! What are the measurements? It looks big
Thats facking cool man.
thats a beautiful build is it all laser cut ??
That is lasercut MDF.
What's the final version going to be made out of?