Team Saint Robot Builds

We got a few chargers. 2 4 channel ones

This is the 4*100W

The older, 4*50 W

Thanks I do like the 100w one I think Clive B has that one too.

Yes thats the feller Craig. Jonno and Learo have one as well.

The 4 channel chargers are very useful for smaller packs, allowing you to charge 4 completely different packs at once. However they're not really powerful enough to use on the larger 6s 5000 packs. If you can find a 100w version they're better but still limit you to less than 1C (4A max charge on 6S).
I tend to have two chargers, a multi charger and a larger more powerful one that will charge a 6s 5000 at 2C easily.

Thanks guys if I go for Li-ion I think I will go for that charger

Grant
Can you, (in the event I go for LiPo,) recommend batteries, supplier and charger for the larger size packs? the 6s 5000 35c,
I am hoping to run the next robot on only 22.2V so I was thinking of going for 2 packs in parallel. I have a cellpro 10s charger but would only charge one battery at a time!

Craig in turbulence I run that same setup as you just posted, optipower brand which I know is what grant will recommend.

If we're discussing heavier chargers.
Leo has 2*200W and single 400W in his arsenal of chargers.

Of course, if you want to charge real fast... better get a hefty powersupply (One of Grants for example) and this 2*1300W monster.

I have used two high power chargers very reliably. The Hyperion super Duo and the PowerLab 8 or 6. For these higher power chargers you do need to look at a 24v PSU though. Ideally anything dual channel over 300w per side or parallel charger over 700-700w will do nicely. If you have a cellpro 10s though it might be cheaper to just get a second one of those with the FRA discount through optiPower.

At last some bits for the new Seraph have come, Shown below is one of two pods that will be connected by a frame with a sword in it.

The sides and front are made from 3mm Stainless Steel! the rear plate next to the battery is 3mm aluminium.
as you can see everything is tight hopefully not too tight!

If you thought the last Seraph was difficult to fight, this one should be impossible!

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Looks great! Folding on the steel is very neat, how did you do it? I spy a pretty big vice and hammer in the first pic, is that the answer? Wouldn't be surprised if you have an actual bender, the radius looks very consistent. I'm sure it will all fit nicely. Look forward to more progress. :)

Thanks for that but I must confess bending small 3mm Stainless steel parts is just not possible in a shed with a hammer and get it this neat.
I had to go to an engineering company that specialises in this type of work and they had problems with the holes stretching close to the corners.

Progress yesterday, sorted out motor mounts and hub position the 12mm stud bar is crude but shouldn't bend.

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I am looking for a supplier for the items below any ideas?

1/ silicon insulated cable 6mm2 10awg or bigger 8awg.
2/ in line fuses about 80-100A
3/ connectors EC5

I am looking at re-wiring a few robots and changing connectors to the EC5 type

thanks

Craig

Hobbyking EC5
eBay for fuses (midi or maxi car fuses)
Havent got completely happy for a cable supplier

Hobbykings cable is good,

eBay for all of that

Wet noodle wire from robot marketplace????

Thanks for the advice guys most of the bits now ordered.

When connecting wires to the EC5 and the XT60 connectors, what procedure do people normally use as I have been having some problems with these fiddly little connectors!!

thanks
Craig

Only used EC5- this is my method;

Strip and tin the wire, make sure it still fits in the connector... Heat and tin the inside of the connector, push the wire in while maintaining the heat and add solder as required...

The most important thing is to make sure the outside of the brass contact is clean, if there's a blob of solder on it, it'll never go in the whole... Then get a small screwdriver push the connector on it and lean on it- takes a fair bit of force to get it to click into position but once it's in, it's not coming out.

After several years I have decided to change the polycarbonate chassis on Tron

As you can see not before time!!:proud:


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That's it Tron is going LiPo, I have a 35c 3s 2.2 amp pack I have to fit a fuse in the circuit what would people recommend 50A or 70A?

Might be worth getting one of both and testing. I'd expect the 50a to hold fine, the motors would have to be screaming at 12v to be pulling 50a between them, and even if they do the fuse wouldn't blow immediately. The 70a would still be well inside the rules though.

edit: also yep, that baseplate looks like it could do with a spruce up. :P

Seems fine to me ... :p

thanks for all the input guys
I have a question about charging leads I am hoping to use the LiFe 4200 4s 30c Zippy battery, and have a Cellpro10s charger. I am looking for a balance lead to go between the two, I know the 4S battery is a JST-HX type but I don't know the type of plug that goes into the Cellpro 10S!! any ideas?

Everyone seems to be using these batteries so I thought I would give them a go.

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I realised I hadn't put up any pictures of Tron with it completed so here they are.
As you can see the LiPo battery is held in an aluminium box and the Maxi type fuse holder with 50A fuse is clamped down, looking forward to running it at Portsmouth.


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I thought I would start downloading some pictures of the new Saint build.


Firstly the motors used in this project, the old Saint A used the Bosch 750 units but for an axel robot there has never been enough power , so we are using the Mag motor it has three times the power of the Bosches but the penalty for this is extra weight.

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The wheel hubs are always a cause for concern on the larger wheel robot, as the stresses on these parts are always large. We have decided to stick with the trailer hub design as with Saint A they have never failed in combat and with the taper roller type bearings they are best placed to accept the axial loads expected.

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I always like to have the drive as an assembly that can be removed complete from the robot, here are the drive units complete and ready for the next stage of construction. you can see the gearboxes made by Mike the final drive is 1/2 inch chain similar to Saint A

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Then parts on the garage floor trying to work out the width of the robot and how we are going to squeeze all the bits in, the finned aluminium is the passive heat-sink for the Wotty speed controller.

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Hope you found this intresting

Craig
Team Saint

This is really cool. Are the chains expensive and sprockets hard to get hold of etc?

Looking really good. That drivetrain is lovely.

Thanks for the comments.
I am much further through the build than these pictures would indicate but want to keep some chronological order so you guys can see the build progression.
The chain and sprockets came from Technobots the prices they charge always seem reasonable to me. the sprockets needed a lot of machining to get the weight down.
This is always going to be the big problem with this build. the projected dimensions for Saint B are about :-

Height 800mm
Width 1350mm
Length 1800mm

And yet the space to put things in is going to be very tight!

Making big wheels

The disc is made from HDPE 20mm thick.
First cut out the blank, Find were the centre for the wheel is going to be. then mark the position with a pen and centre punch the exact point.
I used some steel builders strap as the holes are punched accurately so the dimensions should be good and the wheel round this is screwed one end at the centre punch mark, using a scriber or anything metal and sharp the circle is marked I find with my eyes the line is hard to see so I go over the line with a permanent marker.
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Cutting out the wheel is a long and arduous business but the slower you go the better the final job usually is.
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The tyres for this robot are Motocross motorbike front wheel tyres like Saint first they have to be cut in half radially this means you have half the tyre on each wheel. for the new robot the wheels are so large there are no tyres big enough so the tyres are segmented 12 segments for each wheel. a simple clamp helps, don't forget the bead is steel.
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the tyre is then bolted to the rim the holes for the bolts are measured out first and the holes drilled. The bolts used are stainless steel hex socket domed head (flanged) 8mm machine screws and Nyloc (flanged) nuts to fit.
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more to come

Craig

But........they're not green!

I have gone over to 500 grade HDPE it is less expensive than UHMWPE or RG2000 I always wanted white but the RG2000 only comes in black and green!
Hope that clears that one up.
I am thinking of calling this robot after a short lived featherweight, Gabriel what do people think?

Ok, it was just a joke lol
Is this the fw or hw?
Looks great btw

Each wheel weighs over 10Kg Defiantly a heavy. I hope to take it to Colchester for a few test runs.

This is so cool please keep putting pictures up and call it Gabriel. I love reading your thread for all the cool ideas.

Gabriel it is then!




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This is not a trick the clearance from the front of the robot to the ground is 14" or 350mm!

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I still have lots to do but I hope to get it going this weekend.:eek:

Looks really cool! And huge too...

Is this going to replace the current Saint or run alongside? Because if it's the latter, I would definitely love to see them both fight each other at some point, maybe with Stinger in there too haha!

Wow it's huge! That's awesome! I like the way you've built a bigger version chassis-wise of your feather weight. I was looking at them at Doncaster and all 3 of us rushing to the lexan when Saint was running. They're huge and absolutely frightening in the flesh. Are you having battery packs and everything as your counterweights :)

I love the idea of the whole robot, almost impossible to beat, and the pit can't hold it!