at last!
cheap and cheerful standard drill motors :)
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at last!
cheap and cheerful standard drill motors :)
I wouldn't recommend using hammer-action drills. More fiddly loose bits and you don't have a use for the hammer anyway.
It's perfectly reasonable to dish out on some higher quality drills but until you start paying significant amounts of money, they're all going to be essentially the same. Also, if you go beyond cheap and cheerful (talking 10-15 quid) you'll start to get drills with two speeds, which simply adds weight and more to go wrong.
Honestly mate, you won't be disappointed with standard drills. If you really want a decent pusher, get four 12v units and stick 18v through them. You will be surprised.
Can't wait to see a start to your build. :P
If you can take out the 'hammer' function then those drills will be perfectly good :), not sure how to go about that mind you :).
I think and extra 3.6v giving them 1HP is a bit optimistic :). Astrofight motors are the only FW motors that get anywhere near 1HP and they are like £100 each.
The gearboxes couldnt take 1hp even if the motors dished it out, Argos 12v drills or tesco 9.6v ones are good.
Yes, you've just said a lot of stupid things, again.
they sound good to experiment with. if i can find out some more information on what you need to mod them etc
but if they won't work,
Argos you.better have some drills:proud:
i will.check next time i.go to b&q if they can be disactivated.Quote:
When drilling into softer materials, the hammer mode can be deactivated, allowing use of the tool like a regular drill.
but even on 12v to go easy on the drill it will still have power.
and enough power for me is far too much.
i know its not a simple regular drill but i am curious to look into how these do in combat
why not just use what you know works, if your gonna have to modify it to work as a regular drill motor, why not use a regular drill motor? 12v drills on 18v is a pretty nice, basic drivetrain
After a quick scan of that website I notice that the 12v drill is also rated at 550W, even if it is wrong, that motor is supposedly the same as the one you linked us to, cheaper and doesn't need modified in any way.
I'm starting to think you're doing this on purpose...
try these drills the about the same price and much better build quality than the Argos 1s and faster and no hammer function
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330398469610? ... 1423.l2649
They're nearly double the price. Would be better off with Gimsons if you're going to spend that money.
hamer drills wont work.
Get the simple £12 drills.
It isnt always about horse power, grip makes a massive difference
ok
just thaught it would work
and I'm not doing it on purpose, it is a cordless drill like you said.
i know it sounds like i wont take anyones advice but i keep mithering about the things ive found/want because nobody has realy given me a reason as to why hammer drills wont work.
if they work as perfect cordless drills why wont they work in a robot.
i am perfectly happy with using argos drills but i made this thread to try to answer my questions and i havent started the build yet. so i just want answers to my questions.
have cordless hammer drills been used before.
if not and there is no obvious reason why they wont then there isnt much harm in experimenting with some cheap ones.
if there is a reason can someone just tell me and i will give up on the idea
thanks
Because you have to permanently disable the hammer mechanism. They are setup differently inside and are a pain in the arse. Believe me, I've played about with some. They work as drills because they are nicely housed in a plastic casing, something that you will be removing along with most of the mechanism that keeps them from hammering away. Stick to regular drills.
ok thanks Gary.
i am sticking to cordless drills deffinatley.
i broke a gearbox an a dewalt, my dad was ok though, it.didn't work.
i am really really really sorry for not.listening and i wish i could start off fresh (so people aren't angry because robots is one of my favourite things in the whole world.)
i suppose i.should start simple then get experience and make some more friends:)
i.will start my build in about 1 month and will Check through some older topics for info and tips
just now, should i buy that speedo from gripper and corkscrew?
seems worth it.
thanks guys and Gary for answering my question.
That speedo that Jonno is selling that came from Corkscrew is a Heavyweight speed controller. Its FAR too heavy for a FW and majorly overkill unless you are running something daft. Only FW I know that ran a HW speed controller was Trojan, and he was running these 2 massive 200W scooter motors, and even so, it was overkill.
If all your running is drill motors, a Scorpion XXL will suit the needs fine. It takes up to 24v so you'd be fine with it.
women?Quote:
Originally Posted by archie2000
i wouln't with that just bother for drills. 2 electronize 15a will do you fine, simple and rugged
One of his favourite things, not nessesarily his most favourite thing ;)
you are allowed more than one hobby :wink:
It's usually a case of either/or.Quote:
Originally Posted by harry hills
You want to play robots? Then write off your chances of getting a woman.
You want a woman? Then write off your chances of playing robots.
Unless you find a woman that's tolerant of robots, in which case kudos :P
Archie, another possible problem with hammer drills that I found when messing about with some, is that the shaft is free to come out of the gearbox. With standard cordless drills, the shaft is fixed in place and only protrudes about 25mm-30mm out the end of the gearbox. With cordless hammer drills, the shaft can be around 50mm-60mm long. This means that if you use, say, Robo Challenge wheels with nut inserts, your wheels will stick very far out and the shaft could be more prone to bending from impacts when your robot is thrown around and lands on its wheels.
And because the shaft is usually free to come out of the gearbox, you'd have to come up with some sort of restraint to basically stop your wheels from falling off.
By all means feel free to experiment with hammer drills at some stage, but if you're wanting to keep some money aside for your next, more powerful robot, it's best not to spend money on hammer drills then have to spend more money on normal cordless drills when you realise that it's too much hassle to make the hammer drills work properly as drive motors.
I think if you called the missus a hobby she would be quite upset Alex :lol:
We could always try promoting our robot demos as Hen Night parties Jamie?Quote:
Originally Posted by k_c_r
Trust me, you don't :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by psycho_fling
You always end up wanting too do both, but cant do both the way you wish, cash just runs out
ok thanks guys (what for, Jamie and dave are the only ones who have said anything useful:P)
but you are welcome to post anything here anyway:)
satanix runs of a scorpion xxl dosent it Dave,.if so that is some mod you had done to -does it make it do more amps?
oh yeah Harry.
girls and women. ha not with my attitude. :crazy:
Archie:
You're welcome :)
Also, the original Satanix ran a Scorpion XXL, that was running 18v drill motors on 18v. When I built the new one, it couldn't handle the power because I had issues with the drive units at the time. I use Victor 883's now and have never had a problem since.
Just some food for thought Archie:
I worked it out the other day how much Satanix 1.666 would cost from brand new. I came to the total of £563. This includes:
Drive units; Motors, gears, wheels and gearbox assembly
Chassis (material and local welder)
Batteries (Lipo in my case)
Speed controllers (2 x Victor 883's)
Misc. Radio electronics (RX, mixer, gyro and gyro switcher)
Transmitter
Probably add about £20 onto that for misc. bolts, wire, connectors.
@ Tony ill rephrase ....you are allowed more than one thing in your life that makes you happy, enriches your life and provides great enjoyment ....hope that's made things clearer lol
Anyway back to the robots :)
:lol: Yeah, if you're ever showing her things you say on the forum then that one would definitely be a better choice than the last :rofl:
I'd rather promote myself at such events :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Anttazz
£563!!!
that's nearly all my money.
well it probarbly won't be as good as satanix.
my budget is £300ish for a good robot.
how about a r
eally powerful crusher like i heard hard-time (think his names Ben) say a brushless actuator.
cheaper than drill motors and electronize.
i won't do Pneumatics, its too hard.
because one of the Swedish roboteers said a drill.motor cut through 10mm polycarb
sounds impressive but it must be some drill
tip: nothing on your robot should be brushless
Haz is right. Because brushless motors tend to go one direction only they would be useless for a lifter.
would using 2 work?
RC cars have brushless motors that go in reverse.
quite a lot though.
would a drill crusher really be able to crush through thick polycarb?
have RC car motors been used in combat before (brushed ones?)
thanks dave (sorry i forgot the obvious reason.)
Drill crusher would not be very effective, they can grab of built right but don't expect too go through much
dont touch brushless at all. leave it to the pros....
I never said something about a brushless crusher... :roll:
I think I was going on about the simple homemade linac in laser as the most basic weapon to have.
AS WE SAID EARLIER DONT GO INTO SPEED 900's AND GEARS!!!
ever heard of the phrase KISS??
Listen to our advice, start simple.
Drills and electronizes, make a simple first bot. Stop ignoring us we know what we are doing.
you would do better getting a actuator off ebay like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150840692152? ... 500wt_1169
i thaught you did Ben, oh well sorry
btw speed 900, i said nothing about them.
i don't want to use anything like one.
i am taking your advice
Yeah brushless motors can reverse but you need a special kind of controller to do that (which is why I said 'generally') which is why you pay so much for the RC cars with that function.
A drill motor crusher, as its been said, wouldn't be very effective as a crusher (might bend some plastic) but would be fine just to pin robots down so you can push them down the pit and such.
And he's right Ben, he hasnt mentioned using 900's for a few posts now :).
ok i will now.shut up about brushless.
callums fw chassis that's for sale seems good to work on as a first fw.
i will have more experience if i build it myself though.
and it won't take my 7week summer holiday (God they're long) to fit speed control and add batteries.
cheers
yeh, callums fw is very cheap and would be a good starter for you.