Mine flashes if at some point it has lost signal, and then regained it. If you power everything up, then turn the TX off and on, it should work again but with the flashing light.
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Mine flashes if at some point it has lost signal, and then regained it. If you power everything up, then turn the TX off and on, it should work again but with the flashing light.
Same here, flashes when something's gone awry, re-starting the sequence fixes it.
When it flashes it shows it's browned out
Basically so when your rc plane falls out the sky you know why... You ran out of range/lost reception.
Just ran Binky's 3.6kg disc on a 4S lipo as a preliminary test... Its F****** TERRIFYING! And if its like that on 4S I hate to think what 10S will take it to!
Though there are some problems. The mounts for the disc rub on the uprights of the chassis but that will be solved with some thrust bearings.
It also shakes like crazy for some reason... no idea why but we will have to find out.
PS: I have videos but as my father is rather enjoying keeping the design a secret I don't think they will be going up... well not until the night before the competition just to psych-out his opponents.
if it shakes like crazy on 4s, it will get exponentialy worse at 10s.... sounds like your disc isnt balanced.
It was CNC'd by Kenny so knowing his skills it should be balanced. One tooth is chamfered left nad the other right. Would that do it?
potentially... and just because its been CNC'd doesnt make it instantly perfectly balanced.
Spin it by hand on a bearing, let it stop naturally, mark the lowest point when it stops, repeat.... if it keeps landing in the same spot.... its out of balance...
When you spin it up on 10s stand well back... could be dangerous if it shakes itself upside down etc.
We did that (Admittedly for fun) when we got it; just spinning by hand it on its shaft and it always just stopped and it does that now.
Is it possible for a disc to be balanced in the plane of rotation but not on its axis? As the edge of the disc viably shifts about 1mm back and forth as we rotate it.
And I was inside when I did the spin today but I still feel I should have clamped it down to something :uhoh:
Has it been heat treated? Could be warped... Just see how bad it is, if you can still drive it I wouldn't worry for now.
And yeah bolt it down next time... If you see my YouTube, 360s first spin up the robot had a large industrial container weighing it down, and 720 got bolted in my vice in my workshop.
I think you should test it on 10s, and not bolt it down. Oh and film it.....
For technical help.... yes that's why.... :roll:
For science!
It was case hardened but at 35mm thick at the outer run and 12mm in the centre I doubt it would have warped by almost a whole millimetre.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouldy
And yeah I will strap it down. I cant actually clamp it cos of all the sloping armour panels but we will get come ratchet bets and lock it to a paving slab. Or just stand well, well back and see what happens... the garden is big enough.
Though snow may make all of this obsolete... its only got 3mm of ground clearance.
The disc is statically balanced but not dynamically balanced so it will pass the balance on the bench test but when you spin it up the imbalance in weight along the shaft causes vibration. Just spin it up and stand back.
With a disc that big you will have bigger issues not flipping whilst turning due to the gyro forces.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eventorizon
Seems to me like that's the problemQuote:
Originally Posted by typhoon_driver
Today I was able to run a full 'bench' test of Binky [I ran a basic test on friday but I couldn't go to full throttle as the top was not on] and there is one serious problem.
Once the ESC was armed, the moment I moved more than about 3 meters away the disc went straight to full throttle. Thankfully the machine was clamped to a metal plate so it wasn't going anywhere but the only way to stop it was to get within a meter and regain the signal; and then pull the link when the disc had slowed down to a speed that didn't make it sound like a jet engine.
This didn't happen the first test even when I was a full 8-10 meters away. I think it was the armour blocking the signal as it was fine in the other test.
We are using a Spektrum DX6i and an Orange receiver, neither of which seem to be fail safeing properly.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to solve this?
Didn't you have this issue last year during tech check? What channel is your disc on, on your tx? Im pretty sure only the throttle channel failsafes on a dx6i.
Re bind it with the throttle in the down position.
Same problem. Different machine.
The ESC for the disc is on the throttle channel. I will do a rebind with the stick down and see what happens.
Oddly enough the drive motors stopped. I don't think the TZ85A have fail safes in them. Either that or they were bound in the centre with no movement applied.
The tz85s do failsafe, after about a second. :)
Good enough I think as no one is going to be in the arena 1 second after Cease is called.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellis
Also, how do you slow down something with this much inertia? It takes 2 minutes for the disc to come to a stop from full speed. I don't think driving your machine into the wall is a valid technique unless its in run away. I know some teams use electromagnetic breaking but how do you even build a system like that?
Regardless of the ESC's having failsafe's, most 2.4ghz RX's mean that it will never activate.
In failsafe mode certain RX's have programmable failsafing on all channel's, and others only on the throttle (they keep sending some form of signal out the other channels and very rarely just cut the signal completely which is is what makes ESC failsafes work).
Just to clarify, the channels that failsafe are nothing to do with which TX you use. All TX's can failsafe on all channels with the right RX.
Grant, would it be better to change the RX? The one that the DX6i came with didn't failsafe on all channels. Nor does it seem the Orange RX's. What RX's will always failsafe on all channels?
Also, why is the RX loosing signal at just 4m? Would a genuine Spektrum RX with remote receiver have more range?
this is the only orange rx that failsafes on all channels
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OrangeRx-R710 ... 4ac0d74131
Yes your best bet would be to swap out the RX for one that failsafe's on all channels. As Dave said you need to make sure that all switches/stick positions are in their failsafe position when you bind as that's how it programs them.
I always recommend genuine spektrum gear for quality and range - but it could be a couple of things if your getting back range. Simplest way is to swap out the RX and see if its OK still. Otherwise it could be a damaged aerial in the TX. It's unlikely to be the armour in your robot blacking it as in 720 its encased in 25mm thick or so aluminium all the way around and works fine (with an Orange RX too).
Its just a case of process eliminating and see where the fault lies, even if it can take abit of time!
I will get on and do some tests tomorrow. I just need to remember to take a batt-bind plug with me
I've used both the R410 and R610's in robots ranging from 150g to 30lb and they both failsafe on all of the channels I have used. (typically aile/elev/rudd/thro)Quote:
this is the only orange rx that failsafes on all channels
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OrangeRx-R710 ... 4ac0d74131
Tried out the suggestions with mixed sucsess.
Rebinding solved the failsafe issue but with the armour on I am still getting intermitant signal.
Also, I have no idea is this is even possible but...
When the disc goes over 1/2 throttle I loose steering completely. Its not that I can't drive, the ESC's stop responding but I still have control over the disc speed.
Both systems are powered independently and are not joined at any point besides the receiver. I can't figure out what is going on. If anyone has any ideas?
On a different note, those who use magnets to help keep their machines on the ground, what and how much do you use?
have you suppressed your motors?
I don't know what suppressing is... [Googles] No... they are just standard GR02's. I will look into adding a small capacitor to the drive motors.
Is it possible to shield the receiver from the EM of the brushless motor? They are only about 8cm apart, if that.
The proximity of the rx to the brushless setup shouldnt be an issue, 540's rx was about 20mm from the motor and i never had any issues.
Possibly a dodgy tx/rx - you got a spare setup you can try? You done a range check of the drive going without the weapon running? you should get a few hundred meters of range easy with no armour on.
Also what you using as power for the rx? and obviously check all your batteries are charged :)
Receiver is powered by a 14.8V lipo, which alos drives the GR02's, through a 6V ParkBec.
I will give the batteries a good charge, test that, then change TX as well. I have the one that came with the Spektrum originally but it doesn't failsafe [The problem at Tech-Check last year] and another Orange receiver.
And yeah, I have a few pics of 540 on my phone and just spotted how close it was! :lol:
Had nothing but trouble with dimention engineering products, try with a rx battery if it still doesnt work..
Also, i thought you were using tz85's? They have a bec built in...
So, if I unplug the BEC then it should still work?
You guys have given me loads of things to try, so its just a matter of me working my way through them to see what works.
If your running 2 ESC's with a BEC and a seperate BEC you could have damaged something. Your probably OK but your best to get rid of your external BEC and cut the red wire to one of your ESC rx cables.
How do people slow there discs down. Binky's disc takes 2 minutes to stop from half speed cos of all the bearings. I don't want top remove the bearings as it will wear away at the supports. But I don't think driving into the wall is a legitimate breaking method?
I think i read about something like an electric brake on the riobotz tutorial. You might want to check it.
You could use a magnet to slow it down a bit- if you have a spinning piece of metal with a magnetic field going across it then it will slow down and be harder to spin. If you connect a magnet to a servo arm then you could engage this brake at the end of the fight.
you could use a bicycle brake pad on a solenoid or servo just to push against the side if its smooth to generate some friction to slow it faster
Or turn off disc throttle and just short the motor out. Same principle, just simpler.
Might want some load though to reduce current at the expense of increased slow down time.
The system is fitted with a one way clutch so that we can turn the motor off and the disc will still spin freely, but shorting the brushless sounds like a really bad idea.
It will probably boil down to a servo/solenoid and a brake pad as there is a nice flat ring running all the way round.
Kind of a pointless rule IMO, ring Grant / James and see what they think of the 60 second rule... i wouldnt fail a robot on tech check for it, and if there happy to run it at the event i dont see an issue.