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1/2 Bore pipe.
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http://www.valves-online.co.uk/acatalog ... s_838.html
1/2 Bore pipe.
Will be more expensive than an adapted paintball bottle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Max
Adapt the design then. You're asking for the full hog , 4wheel inverted driving ,heavy armor an good flipperQuote:
I was just finding it hard to find a bottle which fits in the design and holds enough co2
The 5404 type of suitable flow comes in 2 port sizes. 1/2 BSP and 1/2 NPQuote:
what size are the ports on a burkert 5404 valve? (can't open the pdf doc. with specs on it)
Non. You need couplings, or were you thinking about using steel waterpipes and cast elbows?Quote:
and what size pipe can I use with it without an adapter?
i know i said i would either buy a co2 bottle or get a proffesional to make one but it does seem quite expensive so i was wondering if i could make a buffer tank by welding a disk onto both ends of a bit of aluminium pipe and then welding ports on both ends, that way it will be the size i want, have a large volume, have the correct sized ports and be able to have the co2 come in one end and out the other to prevent liquid co2 getting to the ram and freezing it?
You need to have the parts you use certified by a responsible person in the field before any event organiser will allow them within shrapnel distance of their arena...as for deodorant cans, Anticide has used them (actually they were breath fresheners with custom adapters) but a) the maximum pressure in the system was 100psi and b) Andrew Hibberd is an experienced engineer who mostly knew what he was doing. (He is also insane, but that is beside many a point)
So although it seems expensive to get buffer tanks made, it's expensive for a very good reason...
It is possible,done that in the past, got the Tshirt. But the flat ends are annoyingly heavy. Especialy if there is a hole in them for treads. The thickness of a flat end is at least trice the wall thickeness. That is why industrial tanks have round ends, stronger and lighter (and therefor cheaper) than flat end tanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Max
If you're willing to sponsor me to buy or build a machine that can do this, all the roboteers troubles to get a fitting buffertank can be called history.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9jJd...1542728CAE3CD8
have you considered attaching 3 flamethrowers onto a lathe to make your own version of that awsume machine!
When you did it how thick did you have the end plates and the tubing and was it made of aluminium or steel?
mmmm boiling oil straight out the lathe bearings not to mention the potential for warping the various parts of the lathe.
No, my lathe ain't strong enough for this kind of jobs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Max
@ Gary, A ceramic disk between chuck and headstock and aircooling on/in the headstock, and you won't get boiling oil. I did think about it for use with a bigger lathe.
I can't weld ali (unless you want to give me £2200 for a propper AC/DC TIG), so it was steel or stainless steel.(done both).Quote:
When you did it how thick did you have the end plates and the tubing and was it made of aluminium or steel?
Tubing-wall depends on diameter ,the bigger the diameter the thicker the wall needs to be. Coupled with the guideline 3times wall.
hi, i know this isn't a pneumatics question but i didn't think it was worth a new thread, has anyone ever used threaded insert (a screw with a threaded hole in the centre to screw a bolt into), this is for my drum spinner which is made of hdpe with an aluminium lid, i need them so the lid can be removed easily and thought it would be more durable than a tapped hole. i just wondered if anyone had any expiriance with them and could give me any feedback or tell me where they got them from?
Yes, I have used several systems.
As a direct answer
3 options.
Helicoil.
With visual instruction. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFYa6sjhh_E
Non wire inserts. (a headless course thread bolt with treaded hole in it)
Pure custom made. (my prefered option even if it eats drills and taps in the smaller sizes, quality bolts are hard and tough steel)
A less direct answer. We* need drawings/pictures so we* can device the best solution possible inside the constraints.
* we= the ones who can answer
here is a quick (and not to scale) drawing of my bot
[attachment=0:39r7ibiy]hole drum spinner robot wwith removable lid info.jpg[/attachment:39r7ibiy]
i can't think how i can explain it any further basicly i just want to be able to bolt my aluminium lid onto my 20mm hdpe bot without having to tap a hole for the bolt as i think the thread would strip easily (thats why i want a course thread, to help prevent it ripping out) or would wear out over time with all the bolting and unbolting to do repairs or charge batteries
i use wood screws and they work fine
For that kind of application, there is a very usable idea.
Picture follows later, I'll have to make a demo version.
http://users.telenet.be/P3/Mario/P070811_17.45.jpg
Something I cooked up.
A piece of 20mm thick 40*50 HDPE, a 20mm hole in the approximate middle.
20mm long piece of 20mm diameter ali (straight from the rod) M6 thread in the middle.
The allen key bolt completes the picture.
(sorry for the floor, that's about 80 years old)
I just use self-tapers, can get them from anywhere. If the thread goes, just use the next size up screw.
I know the rules say that you must have an on/off valve on your main tank and a dump valve both reachable from out of the robot but would it be allowed to just have a ball valve connected to the tank which vents all gas downstream of itself?
And also could you have it so that the valve needs a flathead screwdriver to turn it on and off from outside the robot?
The on/off valve on the main tank, or the isolation valve if you use pin-valved main tanks, have the job to keep the weapon gas-less untill activation is called by the arena marchal or ringmaster.Quote:
Originally Posted by Max
The dump valve has to vent the complete system.
Preferably no tools for activation or dump. And a flathead screwdriver is the last tool I would suggest for such application.Quote:
And also could you have it so that the valve needs a flathead screwdriver to turn it on and off from outside the robot?
Allen key,Torx or socket wrench, yes. Philipshead or Pozidriv crosshead screwdriver, if nothing else is available. Flathead, no.
What would people recommend for a 6 bar regulator? And what would you recommend for a 6 bar high flow rate valve?
Thanks
Regulator, Trevor of course.
Valve, Woodies QEV setup with a small control valve is the cheapers, lightest you can do.
Has anyone started to make the Trevor regulator again?
Not as far as I know. And if so, expect a higher pricetag than the originals.
For low pressure buffer tanks do most people use paintball bottles? Also do you need anything to fill your paintball tank with co2 (I am going to use a 16oz one from justpaintball ) like hoses or adapters?
For LP, a paintball tank is overkill, to heavy for the job.
To fill a painball bottle, you need a filling station. Available at any reasonable paintball shop.
Hoses for FP. I prefered thermoplastic hoses 1/4bsp size . These are commonly used on forklifts for the moving hoses on the arm- for the extra moving of the forks.
but my latests setups don't use hoses, but collectors. Solid mountings , no hoses, and as least couplings as possible. Takes a lot more time and efford to get ok, but the advantages are size, weight and simplicity.
Metalbeaks setup is such one.
Sorry I meant do you need anything to fill up the bottle at an event?
And what do people use instead of a paintball bottle for a buffer tank?
At the German events the standard is paintball bottle. They have their own filling station.
For the Dutch events, that is covered.
I didn't see any filling station for paintball bottles at the RR events.
So, it's up to you to make sure you can refill your own bottle. It's also handy at home. You don't want to run to the paintball shop every time your bottle is empty. Easier to rent a bigger CO2 bottle and refill your own for testing purposes.
On low pressure buffertanks.
I have seen a lot of different things. But powder fire extinguishers are known low pressure buffers.
Would a battle switch, from robo-challenge, be able to power 2 solenoid/servo operated low pressure valves? They would be running at 12-18v I think
Normal Solenoid Low pressure valves, like Festo, run around 2watt @24V.
The issue will be, is a 24V solenoid strong enough @18 or even less volt to switch the pressure yoiu want?
There is a reason why we overvolt the Burkerts for FP use.
But Yes, the Battleswitch will be strong enough to cope with the power demand.
Could you use one of the aluminium bottles (the camping shop ones) with screw on bottle caps, as a 6 bar buffer tank?
I have seen such being used. But I can't give any advice except.
I'll have to test them first
Do you just need a 2/2 valve for a single acting cylinder? And what kind of flow rate do you want for an axe? (just roughly because I've got a brochure and their are ones with 1l/min and ones with 3115 l/min i think so a rough idea would be great)
You can do the job with a 2/2 valve, if you use the Cutlet system. The standard on FP feathers...
The 2/2 valve must have the highest flow you can afford, and a small hole in the rams pressure chamber will dump the gas. Leave the valve open, and the bottle will empty itself trough that small hole (we talk about 1.5-2mm diameter).
If you go LP, affordable 3/2 valves ain't a problem.
Has anyone tried using a rotary atuaror (not sure how you spell it) for an axe/hammer robot?
Yes, rather unimpressive results.
The heavyweights Project One and Enderbot from the Dutch series One used large SMC rotary actuators, but had trouble achieving any results.
Razerdave had a setup with 2 small Festo rotary actuators, still, not very impressive.
I've never heard of rotary actuators, I'm assuming they give you a reciprocating motion from an electric motor? I tried looking up Festo but got confusing results.
Festo DSR series
http://www.verpakkingstechniek.nl/im...R-32-180-P.jpg
SMC CRB series
http://content2.smcetech.com/image/large/4005.jpg
A rotary artuator (I think that's the 3rd spelling now) are pneumatic components which rotate when you put pressurised air in. Unlike an air motor which spin continuously (like an electric motor but running of air) a rotary artuator only rotates a certain amount eg 180 degrees
Ahhhh right, cheers.
What happened is that the 'plunger' part of the assembly, its made of plastic and it just couldn't take the forces involved. Only ever fired it about 5 times, never in an actual fight and it still broke! Trevor tried to make a metal one with no luck, so best avoided.
If I have a 10 bar single acting ram 80mm bore 100 mm stroke then each flip will use around 40cm^3 of co2. If i use a 16oz bottle of co2 how many flips do I theoretically get?
Also if it is single acting Woodies use of qev's has no use does it? I may not have got the right idea because I think I read that you could use them a inlet valves instead of outlet but what I read had them as outlet on a double acting cylinder
Oops! I was looking at the wrong system! Now I see the point in Woodies qev system, it very clever. So if I understand it right the flipper will fire when you close the solenoid valve as then the pressure will drop opening the qev valve dumping all the gas in the buffertank into the ram then when you open the valve the qev valve will close directing the gas to the buffer tank to fill it up again. Is that right?
Also can you get a qev valve with a flow of 8cv?