made it myself, pain the utter arse so time consuming but works well
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made it myself, pain the utter arse so time consuming but works well
So I got round do some more tests
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...;v=_AEcz5X9RDE
working well, hammer looks like it should hit preatty hard (although got a new goal for future robots heheh)
Drive as well as I thought it would. So that will require some fixing (a wheelly bar style thing)
But if you may of notices (espicelly with the hammer test) it is cutting out. This is due to the removelable link.
Attachment 7793Attachment 7794
I must be drawing too much amps that or they are el-cheapo knockoff but would be making a duel connecter be the best plan?
Side note would this satisfy the Cradle requirement?
Attachment 7795Attachment 7796Attachment 7797
If not i shall work on something better.
Lastly a quick photo of the battery.
Attachment 7798
Anyway planning which events I can get too.
That looks at first glance like arcing - is the XT60 a snug fit? The plus in the male side can be widened with a precision screwdriver (with power off of course!) which would make the pin connection tighter. I've had to do that a few times on the connectors in Battleaxe which are XT60, it's a very similar setup but doesn't draw excessive current. What fuse rating are you using?
EDIT: I would probably replace that connector pair altogether!
Damn was gonna do it energized while in a earthed steel container fuil of salt water :rofl:
100a fuse, it was a snug fit looks like the metal inside the connecter (brass?) melted down into the connector resulting a lose connection.
Attachment 7802
Old left new right
I shall make a new Link and try again tomorrow maybe.
You will get a bit of arcing on a link when you plug it in anyway (unless you have a 'pre-charge' link) but I would be surprised if that alone would be enough to reduce the connector to a point where it is not making good contact. Possibly just a duff connector, so worth making a new one to try.
Re: the cradle, it looks fine. As long as it prevents the robot's wheels from touching the ground and it is stable (i.e. give the robot a shake and it doesn't fall off) then it's good.
Well things where looking good.
Link modifications work great and does not shake loose both on old and new links.
Axe has some power, bent a 8mm? (didnt measure it) mild steel, old lenght of cutter bar
Attachment 7803
But now the bad bit. I think i have damaged the weapon motor as it does not sound heathly
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTva_n11C1g
Can it be saved or should just invest in a new one (+ plus a spare)
Does sound horribly bearing related. I guess there isn't a gearbox attached to this one?
I'd be inclined to leave it for the moment, get to an event and then see how well it is doing during/afterwards, 8mm steel is fairly beefy stuff, I doubt there'll be much with that sort of armour running at the moment, especially up on top in a world of spinners.
Sounds like a dead bearing or a winding coming out of the slots.
Both can be repaired tough.
Ok, better them i feared. I shall take it apart this weekend and have a look at the damage
It could be a magnet slipped from the case thats brushing up against a winding internally.
and the winner is.......
Roboteernat, Ding ding ding.
The bottom two magnets broke free the drop of adhesive they are held down with and hit the other two and each other.
They are chipped but are in one piece.
Attachment 7817
Is it worth re-glue and epoxy them in place and if so does anyone have a link to a good guide or thread somewhere or is magnet damage too much and I should just save the brushes and armature and get a new one?
It is worth the effort. Epoxy the hell out of those magnets, and when you buy a new one (spare parts are usefull) , make sure it's done in advance. It's one of the old tricks to make Bosch 750's more survivable.
Any suggestions on a brand or type of epoxy?Quote:
Originally Posted by maddox10
Araldite springs to mind. But any 2 component epoxy will do a reasonable job there.
Ahh, thought so, just use some 2 part epoxy, one that is good for higher temperatures 50 degrees c will be fine. Some cheap Poundland type epoxy do break down at higher temps, and I’m guessing when the motor stalls on hit it will warm up a little bit,
Araldite or building stores 2 part epoxy will be fine. Make sure you put a small amount behind otherwise the space between windings and magnet will be smaller. Put most around the edges of the magnet.
My last post in my build guide is me saying I’m going to take apart my linear actuator to see if I can make it lighter. Sadly in the process of dismantling it, ie hitting it with a hammer, I broke the magnets inside the motor in half. I’m going to 2 part epoxy mine back in to see if I can salvage it, but I doubt I can.
Edit, for those that are interested, this datasheet shows that araldite standard degrades at 40 degrees, meaning its easier to break at higher temperatures after 40 degrees. http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/25...waAsljEALw_wcB
If your budget is high enough...
http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-408...=8802629353473
Would you think 50ml be enough for 2 motors ?
https://www.rapidonline.com/loctite-...rtridge-565484
For what it's worth, I have 24ml syringes of Araldite Rapid and Standard and both claim high temperature resistance (up to 80 degrees C).
Well i got myself some Araldie Standard as it was quick to get amazon, and it worked well enough, still sounds a tad ropy but is running better
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQGhhLbSdCU
Well done. I'd call it characterful more than anything else now ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocracoke
I call it my spare motor, got a new one on order, but gonna glue the magnets, did you mod your motors for the WIP heavy ? might worth a look
I'll certainly be looking at them prior to it entering combat, yes. ;)
Having used those motors for a couple of years in Hatchet, I can tell you the magnets like to detach themselves. It’s worth epoxying them in given the amount of shock you’ll be putting through the motor.
Robots looking great too, very Hatchet-esque
its a nice purr to the mean beats :)
it is a better noise then *CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK* :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Roboteernat
This a photo of the new motor. It is the same type from the same seller but must be a new version as it has this plastic retaining rings which would mean if one magnet moved they would all move which would be more likely as they are not glued. I remedied this and also glued the plastic mount in place as well to make sure.
Attachment 7865Attachment 7866
Well By Jove I would say it is complete!
Attachment 7958Attachment 7959Attachment 7960Attachment 7961
Well i will need to countersink 18 bolt holes but that should be it.
The only worry is that of battery power.
https://youtu.be/iu-iZ9pEYRw
as you see it was run right down after driving around and using the hammer worn it right down but this was after spending 5-10 minates the other day just using the hammer to entertain my nephew and his friends so I simply do not know. One plan is to buy a Optipower 6s 2700 which boosts volts and power.
As a slight dower my original RX the antenna have snapped off, i have tried to re solder them back on but they broke off. it there a way to fix them or just chuck it ?
Looks pretty tough, looking forwards to seeing it in action.
I would have thought soldering it was an option... might be too brittle though. Wonder if it is possible just to replace the antenna?Quote:
As a slight dower my original RX the antenna have snapped off, i have tried to re solder them back on but they broke off. it there a way to fix them or just chuck it ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocracoke
After seeing what happed to the first Honey Badge at Granthem I was gonna try my best to build it like a tank.
on the RX I do have some 26AWG wire which I could try.
Hahaha! Well I don't think you'll have that problem ;)
That is a beefy looking bot. I love seeing all of these FW axes being built recently, they're a really fun type of bot to drive and fight!
Ouch - that hammer looks like it packs a punch! Nice job!
Good job! Looking forward to seeing it at XR Manchester :)
Looks good! Makes me miss running Hatchet seeing all these axe bots being built.
Regarding battery power, I ran a 2200mah 6s in Hatchet for years and it was more than enough for a 3 minute fight.
well you could always make a new one and not bring the nasty spinner of yours :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsam
I have looked at some 6s batteries but that optipower one is the only one that is possibly in stock that will fit