Control Waterjet did these, I used kcut for the weapon and it looks like Control's machine is much more accurate. Control have also done my base/back/top sheets which should arrive today.
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Control Waterjet did these, I used kcut for the weapon and it looks like Control's machine is much more accurate. Control have also done my base/back/top sheets which should arrive today.
Attachment 5775Attachment 5776
Moar bits!
Your bits should turn up thursday afternoon according to the courier. Hope they fit ok. Better than £234 or whatever it was.
What are the panels made of - I thought the titanium was wasn't an option?
That's great Harry, from the pics you sent the look great.
Panels are made of 2.5mm alu 6082T6, they will have replaceable HDPE panels over the top of them too. I did want them in Ti, but the only option was to source it myself and I just couldn't be arsed with the logistics of it all when time is so tight. Last of the CAD parts arrive tomorrow, with the new shaft and pulley from Harry coming on Thursday. Bank holiday weekend is going to be a blast with all this to play with!
That's looking far too good. Get out. Just...get out :lol:
Neverrrrrr! Thanks though, hopefully it all goes together ok :p
Harrdddoooxxxxxxxxx........ and HDPE
Attachment 5779
Looks good! Could do with getting hold of a paint scraper or something similarly thin to attach to the edge of that wedge to make sure you can get under people.
I was planning on filing the end to a sharp angle instead, but I'll see how that works out :p
Talking of which, any advice on drilling hardox? does it need anything special? I've every so slightly fucked up the CAD and misaligned a set of holes by around 3mm, so need to drill em out a bit. I knew I'd fuck up something rushing it like I did :P
Filing isn't really an option with hardox unless you have a power tool to do it for you; it's not called a ware resistant steel for nothing! Paint scrapers are used quite a lot and have been shown to get underneath most things with a lot less effort than filing hardox (something like this would probably do: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXTRA-WIDE...0AAOxy~ilSPeiz)
For drilling hardox, a fresh cobalt drill or similar and plenty of cutting fluid will do the job nicely.
Just don't let the Hardox or the dill bit overheat. If it does you will work harden the Hardox further and make it impossible to drill. We've had this issue with countersinking and drilling Hardox in the past. Just take it slow and it should be fine.
Yeah, don't go easy on the cutting fluid; I normally drill about 1mm deep at a time, then apply a load more.
I have a second option, which is to put a 3mm strip of metal between the frame and the 12mm threaded rod, thus aligning it with the holes in the hardox..... sounds like it might be the easier choice. The hardox has other points of attachment that don't have any issues, so I think this would be an ok fix :x
Good advice though, I have plenty of cutting oil, might need a higher quality drillbit though if I do try to drill it!
I got a suitable one from screw fix for about £3 for a single drill... If you only need one size it's well worth it for Hardox!
As well as using cutting oil, use slow speed and lots of pressure. I find hardened steel drills much easier if you start a pilot hole with a small drill around 2 to 3mm. The pressure per sq. inch is huge with a small bit, allowing it to punch through quickly with less heating. Try to find a cobalt drill bit with a split point and a 135 degree angle, they will last longer and cut faster in hardened steel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUIj9ut5y1E
see if you can dig up the bosch blue style masonry bits, they will drill a hole in any hardness material but it isn't accurate (6mm hole will be 6.3 etc etc).
I just got some 5mm "Bosch blue" bits from Screwfix, like the above. I need to drill quite a few holes in hardox so fingers crossed they do the job!
Make sure you pilot, cobalt bits go through Hardox like butter, lots of pressure, slow speed lots of cutting fluid (I just use WD40, works fine).
Ellis, they will but make sure that your setup is rigid. In other words that your work isn't going to vibrate and I would recommend only using them with a pillar drill or mill on the slowest speed you can.
A few things I found with them,
- They weren't great at hole cleaning and I to manually remove material after the hole got deeper than the diameter of the drill bit.
- The white coolant you would use with a lathe or mill worked best for keeping things cool. I also tried drilling / tapping paste but this didn't work as well. I think the coolant assisted in removing material.
- I was drilling 10mm hole and they actually seemed to prefer no pilot hole. I was initially drilling a pilot hole with a 5mm before opening it to 10mm but 10mm straight seemed to work best.
- Once the diamond head has gone then bin them, they are useless at that point.
- I had a 5mm bit snap off in the hardox (was drilling 20mm thick hardox 400). Couldn't remove it with pliers etc but the 10mm bit just went straight through the broken bit in the hole no bother.
- I quickly nackered my first 10mm bit but the second one got 80mm of hardox drilling done before it was junk.
- They are good but at the same time, not being able to sharpen them means that they have less of a life than a cobalt bit which can be sharpened on a bench grinder.
Cheers for the tips Gary, all noted. I only have to drill the 5mm holes into 3.2mm hardox so hopefully chip clearance and the small size of the drill (relative to the fairly chunky drill press I have) should be okay. I bought 3, expecting to burn through them, for £8 all in, so not going to cry if it goes badly.
Good tips indeed! Will see how it goes :p
Harry, parts from you arrived this morning, they look amazing! Will see how well they fit tonight. I've bought a pair of TZ85's as backup ESC's just incase we don't finish our custom ones this weekend to an acceptable level. I'll be converting them to brushed drive this weekend. I only have one receiver at the moment, should I assume it will break and bring backups? Any recommendations on cheap receivers that do the job?
We put the mill into the slowest possible speed and then keep applying pressure if you let the tip rub it will heat up and loose its edge. plus keep that white sauce flowing.
So much to do arghhhhh!!!
https://i.gyazo.com/dab3cbfb08d50af1...56c25df5a1.jpg
Firstly... the ebay seller for all the bolts sent me cap heads when I ordered a mix of counter sunk flats and button heads.... I've re-ordered another load from a different seller, but for now cap heads will do. New ones come on Wednesday. Side/back will be counter sunks with buttons everywhere else.
Secondly, my belts don't fit! Had to order the next size up from belting online, but fear they wont come in time. Will probably search for another shop to buy from just in case.
NONE of the electronics are done yet! Hopefully this won't be the case by tomorrow night :P
Love the colours though
You can always get stuff next day from RS. Although too expensive to ever buy from them unless it's an emergency hah.
I just tested a 3D printed ninjaflex belt. It worked really well, tons of grip. Will print out a bunch of them (as they may break after a few rounds) and use them as back ups.... fingers crossed the real belts arrive in time though!
Now that's an interesting use of 3D printing. Need to make sure that you start the perimeter at random points so you don't have a single weak point running up the belt and custom sizes wouldn't be an issue. Not a bad idea that.
Here is a video of me testing the 3D printed belt at half speed. They seem to work ok, probably not too hard wearing though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eextp7HjTos
Might have to order up some ninja flex.
That is ingenious! Won't the ninja flex stretch lengthways when it gets a real load on the belt?
Hopefully not! I should have proof of that today hopefully. Ninjaflex printed at 100% infill is pretty hard to stretch at this thickness, and even when not completely tight on the pulley it gripped very well, so I'm hoping it will stay that way. Time will tell!
This current belt is just flat, if it proves to be up for the job I will experiment with printing some with HTD5 tooth profiles, although If the belt does stretch, the teeth could just do more bad than good...
If you can find some way to embed polyester or kevlar cords in your printed belts, that would make the ninjaflex belts as tough as 'real' timing belts. Even if the printed belts are only good for testing its still extremely cool!
The bot drives!! Its an absolute power house with those rangle gearboxes/motors. Had good fun pushing the dog bed around with it (minus the dog). We didn't manage to get our ESC's finished in time... they run the bot... but theres so many little things to fix/add to them that its not worth the risk this soon to the champs. Instead, Dave and I spent the day making removable links, flashing tz85's and general wiring/extras. Really happy with the outcome.
Also
THE WEAPON IS ALIVE
The ninjaflex span up the 2.2kg disc really nicely!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRXf3A5LZdA
Probably a good call on the ESC front; My feather had a fairly untested ESC in it for the champs last year. It only lasted one fight, then had to be swapped out for some TZ85s anyway.
It's looking awesome. If your countersunk bolts don't arrive in time, I'd suggest removing the lower 6 of the 8 cap head bolts from just in front of the disk, else you'll never hit anything!
Wrap some duct tape around the outside of the belt. Should help hold the whole thing together and assist in stopping it stretching.
I repaired a damaged HTD5 belt with "fibre tape" a couple of years ago. It worked. I'll have loads with me!
Well hopefully my proper HTD belts will arrive in time, but if not then fibre tape or duct tape sounds like good reinforcement, providing it doesn't come off and get caught in the disc!
Very clever! I would go for the fibre tape if its like the fibre reinforced packing tape I have - absolutely not stretch in it. OTOH, duct tape is probably stickier. If you run a test, run the belt until it gets hot - my duct tape glue melts at low temps.