Ok so two red+black goes to the battery. The other red+black goes to the motor and the black plug in goes to the reciover http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2Pcs-320A-...item43cc10a19e
So will this otter the speed of the motor`s
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Ok so two red+black goes to the battery. The other red+black goes to the motor and the black plug in goes to the reciover http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2Pcs-320A-...item43cc10a19e
So will this otter the speed of the motor`s
Oh come on...
I can't make this any clearer, read other build threads. You'll see why that ESC is not suitable for a feather, it only does 8.4V max not the typical 3S ~12V or higher nearly all featherweights run on. There are many great guides that will give you a much better understanding if you just read the threads on the forum. I'd also have my doubts on that ESC actually making it halfway across the arena before smoking.
You got the right technology and your summary is correct, however the speed controllers you just linked are rubbish.
Then give me a good thread that will explain this all to me about running a feather weight robot and what to useQuote:
Originally Posted by Shakey
Quote:
Originally Posted by leorcc
Does it need to be a higher amp
No the voltage, and basically everything about the build of those ESC's. Why are you not gettin a a pair TZ85a ESC's? They are not my favorite, but they do the job very well.
For a featherweight, buy these. You shouldn't go wrong with them
http://ranglebox.com/product/botbitz...2-brushed-esc/
They have been well used by a number of machines. I would suggest using cordless drills for drive with these as they come with a motor / gearbox unit in one
Just have a good browse of the featherweights in this section of the forum: http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/foru...-build-diariesQuote:
Originally Posted by J.A.G
EDIT: Also the second reply listed a load of them.
https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...9a&oe=55C7C085Quote:
Originally Posted by J.A.G
As you can see, you was provided with links to build diaries in only the 2nd reply. You cant ask people to choose all the components for you as they likely wont go together.
In the same sense if you ask for everything youll need, youll likely be missing something. Locking bar wouldnt be on most peoples list of components but we all have one where required.
You may read the comments, but you appear to do nothing actively about them. Example being having a spinner - the list is truely endless for the reasons not to do that if your unsure and new to the sport. Especially considering you need to be selected for the 1 event all year you could compete in with that.
Read the build diaries, and try to learn from them. If you dont understand the basics of what your building, you should definitely not even be considering building a spinner. In the same sense, asking if random components are alright wont get you anywhere - because you should understand why certain components are correct for your robot.
If you have questions like "Why do TZ85s have cutout issues on Spectrum transmitters", or so on youll get all the help and advice you need. However asking for everything you need on a plate means you could possibly be unsafe in constructing the robot, or could even result in buying the wrong components as everyones building techniques are different.
Lastly, you need to be able to pass tech checks at all events - Thus knowing your components is important.
Quote:
Originally Posted by typhoon_driver
Are they strong enough to push a robot hard into the walls
They should comfortably handle a drill motor (you will need one for each motor). People have built FEATHERWEIGHT rammers with them.
Oh and don't exceed the rated voltage of the controller.
Thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by typhoon_driver
I just got hold of a cordless drill am stripping it down today
+1 for the TZ85s. I was running a stalled fake Speed 900 on one of those and it didn't care. Takes plenty of amps, really got very little to worry about in terms of burning them out.
Make sure you have matching drills for either side. If you have a mismatch then chances are the motor / gearbox will be different and your robot will go in circles. Also the screw that holds the chuck in place is likely a philips head with a reverse / left handed thread. That means to undo it you rotate it clockwise. Sometimes they are held in with locktite so can be difficult to get going. Just don't strip the head or it's an absolute pain.
Well I've striped the drill to see it motor and gearbox. Ill got another drill to strip. And also I've got hold of a battery angle grinder. I've also got two 12v battery's that im going to strip also.
I got my mig welder back:mrgreen: also
Need to get hold of an old push bike with 12 or so gears so I can strip them apart separated. To gear them up from the motor to the wheels now try to find some tuff wheels
The whole point of using drill motors and gearboxes is that you don't require additional gearing between the motor and wheel. You mount the wheel on the threaded shaft coming out of the gearbox. Traditionally it's done by melted a suitably threaded nut into the centre of the wheel. I forget the exact thread but it's an imperial one. You then use the reverse threaded screw in the center of the shaft to hold it in place with a large washer. When one tries to unscrew it tightens the other. Holding the wheel in place. It's things like this that you would pick up at an event in person.
But I drives slow with the gearbox
The drive won't be spectacularly fast no, but it will be fast enough.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsiDj_D5nTQ
A bit of shameless advertising but that is my robot Hatchet at this years World Featherweight champs, it runs cordless drills for the drive and i think you'll find it has plenty of speed and push.
Wow you kicked there ass. And yes that is fast. It just seemed so slow on the gearbox
I think this thread should be moved to the featherweight section
You got to put wheels on it yet, the bigger the wheels the faster it moves.Quote:
Originally Posted by J.A.G
https://youtu.be/bXCInfJ15D8
Like Hatchet, Defector has drill motors and due to its big wheels it is very fast on full throttle. Bigger wheels does reduce the torque however, so its a balance.
Bigger wheels also increase the stress placed on the gearbox and its associated components, so that's something to bear in mind. Depending on how big you go, you might want to consider supporting the wheel on the opposite side too.
Am thinking of using caravan jokey wheels
Quote:
Originally Posted by J.A.G
Really, don't do that
Way too big for drill gearboxes, they will just cry in the corner
How big are the featherweights normally are
Most Featherweights use 100mm Diameter wheels
Drill gearboxes as Jamie said will not like running massive wheels, the bigger the wheels, the more strain on your gearbox
How big are featherweight bots
Look in the rules, 13.6kg is the only limit.Quote:
Originally Posted by J.A.G
Thus if you make it out of 50mm thick lead - it's going to be pretty small. Make it mostly out of air - and it can be bigger than most heavyweights (Look at failboat).
You need to plan and design to the rules, using knowledge gained from build diaries and so on. You can't just ask people to give every random specification for a robot - as it won't go together
They're as big as you want to make it, but bear in mind the bigger it is the less armour you can get in weight. Make it as big as it needs to be to fit the internals in and then build around that.
You can see a fairly typical featherweight in the middle (the one shaped like an inflatable boat).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP1Z...ature=youtu.be
Aiming for that sort of size should be good.
Generally speaking around and under 400mm square is about right size for a feather. Smaller you can make it, the lighter it will be so you have more weight for other stuff, armour or weapons (that's basically a summary of gareth's points)
Thanks
Well had a little set back with the one of the drill and angle grinder I got given. Both motors are shot. But never mind I got them given to me for free
Did you ever get your robot started or built?James Griffiths:uhoh:
Not yet ive just started a new job. Welding and fabricating. Gates and railing`s. So I should be able to get there scrap metal and just double or triple the steel sheeting or box. for my robot. I have found some motors for the drive and will be using a petrol disc cutter for the spinning weapon. Just learning more info on speed controllersQuote:
Originally Posted by team death
I will be building a heavy weight