so i kneed 2 solenoids on.my axe motor, one to move it back the other to.move it forward.
sorry guys i.will do some more reaserch on this.
thanks Maddox
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so i kneed 2 solenoids on.my axe motor, one to move it back the other to.move it forward.
sorry guys i.will do some more reaserch on this.
thanks Maddox
i found these that might be good
http://www.ecrater.co.uk/p/13109042/sol ... EQgwgwBDgK
so how could i control one of these?
eg like switching it on and off.
also how.much can i overvolt an axe motor cos i won't be running it for more than 1 second?
sorry for these noob questions
cheers
You will use EITHER a solenoid or motor to power the axe. But as Mario just pointed out a solenoid will not be powerful enough, so stick with using a motor.
It just so happens that a very small solenoid is a component of a relay - relays can potentially be used in controlling your axe and I think that's where your confusion lies.
ok thanks
after that i think it will be much simpler to.build a pusher.
not just any pusher, a superpowerful one.
how about 6xRS-775-18 drive on 24volt to give over 5horsepower.
i love the robots bonx and satanix and.my aim is to smash robots into the arena and crush them.
i have the money and determination and the ability to do a messed up CAD.
only issue is speed controllers,
6 electronize 30amps will take me back £250.
what's the cheapest speedos i could get hacked brushless to brushed?
i will use mod 1.5 technobots 17mm thick steel gears with a 4wd system.
could i have a larger wheel at the back and smaller wheels at the front all connected with bike chains?
thanks.
this should be interesting
*gets popcorn*
I know its all good having 5 horsepower, but lets just think for a second, 1 = a featherweight will never be able to put that sort of power down and will just spin the wheels unless you use magnets ( only anygood at robo challenge event as there floor is metal), 2 = Weight 6 gearbox motors will weigh alot aswell as the batteries and speed controller needed to run them 3 = Very expensive,Quote:
Originally Posted by archie2000
Just think about cobalt runs 2 x rs550 (£7 motors) on a pair of banebot gearboxs and that has more than enough power to smash other robots around, also think about if you get under the other robot you can push it using bosch 35watts ( not needing all that power )
Look at what other people have done and decide what you want to do, a good drive train can be cheap if you pick the right parts
If thats you're only issue, then I applaud you.Quote:
Originally Posted by archie2000
Anything's possible, but no. That would be making life needlessly difficult for yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by archie2000
Quote:
Originally Posted by archie2000
Quote:
Originally Posted by archie2000
Why?Quote:
Originally Posted by archie2000
I'll put forward a suggestion to you on something that will actually work, and won't cost you millions and millions of pounds and hours of questioning people about various designs and you can see what you think, similar to what Kenny has done.
Why don't you get 2 speed 900's (or clones) and the Vantec Jonno is selling (60A per channel if I remember right and much, much cheaper than 250 bucks of electronize and make a 2, 4 or even 6 WD that are all the same size (or as many wheels as you want for that matter) system that uses standard-ish components, has been done before and might actually work? That way you have a pretty powerful machine that is pretty similar to Satanix and Bonx as you mentioned?
hmm all that has been done.
and so far i don't know many robots that can smash a robot to.bits by driving into it.
how about i go for the speed900s on 36volts?
sorry for these questions but if i never say anything there is that small possibility it might work.
is there anyway i could get a bot 1 up from bonx?
thanks anyway
That depends on how well built the other bot is.
Interesting that you say no you dont want my design idea and suggest a design that is identical to the one I just said in every way but adding the 36v in, something that I didnt even mention. They do work on 36v though. I think they're up to 40v max so should work. What sort of current that would draw I dont know, but what I do think is that, like Kenny said, you'll struggle to get that power down.
how about 4 of the rs775s overvolted, grippy wheels, 4wd?
that would be a contender wouldn't it
kind of sensible
PLEASE JUST BUILD A SIMPLE DRILL/GIMSON POWERED PUSHER FIRST!
Even from a simple bot there are always lots of complications and you will learn a lot from building a simple bot. Just do a simple one first, even with an axe if you wish but don't over complicate your first bot or you will fail and have no more money so give up roboteering.
its not that much harder than the gimson bot to make.
it sounds simple.
it can't be too hard.
even.if its not my first fw
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewit ... 0973602798
cheap, does.anyone have any idea.how many c they might do
you are completely wrong there, that thing will be incrdeibly hard to build to the precision you are talking at.Quote:
Originally Posted by archie2000
I would say just build a simple bot and work up.....
your funeral mate.
think very, very carefully, you have been asking if things have been a good idea and have been told multiple times, by multiple people to do the same thing. these are people with large amounts of experiance. maybe its a good idea to listen? maybe what you are being told is what you should do?
you, think it sounds simple, and forgive me if i sound rude but you have never built anything bigger than an antweight and so you probably don't understand many of the difficultys and strains a Fw would go for.
right, last time i'll tell you to do the sensible thing. good luck with your super dooper rammer defyer of logic and good-idea-on-paper robot.
Please wake up to the advise everyone is giving
And second those batteries are AA size and 1.2v each ill leave you to have a think to why this isn't a wise choice
Alex
Tried to resist getting involved with this but it was far too tempting.
I would urge you to listen to the advice that everyone has given you- most of them have built their own robots and know just how difficult it is.
For a first robot go for a simple 4WD pusher using either drills or Gimson motors- it will work and is a great way to learn about building robots. I started (many years ago now) with Whirlpool which was exactly that- it was very reliable and ran in its various forms until 2010. Since then we have built 18 other feathers which have all fought and hopefully got a little better each time (with a couple of exceptions ;))
I will repeat what everyone else is saying so start simple and work your way up! You will learn loads more by doing it that way and will not waste loads of money on ideas that won't work.
So my advice is:
1. Keep the idea simple
2. Build the simple robot
3. Get to an event meet people and learn from the experience
4. Build on what you learn from fighting your first robot
5 Enjoy it!
sorry for that.
i just struggled to realise what is so hard with wiring a roboteq to motors and batteries assemble your gears
plug in your rx
build the armour
sounds simple but if everyone advises not to then who have i got to blame when it dosent work.
on another note, do you recon it would be easier if ewan could build a gimson with a rs775 in it
that would kind of be a gimson
thanks for the advice anyway guys i think i.should follow you
You need to understand how much more time consuming and complicated it is to build a featherweight than an antweight.
I'll back up everything Will has said and I certainly agree with all the advice he has given you. There is nothing to say that you won't be able to build a more powerful robot in the future, but it would be a good idea to gain some experience beforehand.
I'd say get your hands on some good, reliable drill motors (preferably dewalts or something similar) and use that as your drive. This is the basic setup we've used in Annihilation and that's been running since 2007, fairly successfully and has recently been performing even better with the new A123 cells. Just because something is simple does not mean that it won't work well. We haven't even taken the drills out the cases, and they're only held down by two straps of rubber. Pick the right parts (not always the most expensive ones), build it reliably, keep it simple and drive it well and it should do fairly well.
Another matter is that the robot is not the only aspect of winning. It is also important to be able to drive your robot well, which I can see as rather challenging with a lightning-quick pusher, Explosion is bad enough! Building a simple pusher does not necessarily stop you from winning, as many have proven before.
Good luck and have fun.
ok I'm starting to get a build simple.idea.
can i use servos to move the switches on the drills instead of escs?
a simple wedge hopefully built for super cheap because then i will have no money for my next fw
thanks guys for this
and does anyone have any stuff i could use in my robot?
i will get to some car boots and build a kind.of little bitza.
do it propperly, then you can recycle parts.
no, you can't use drill electronics for anything other than paperweights tbh
Not really advised as it won't failsafe. Even using an external pair of switches and servo the way Rover does doesn't failsafe. ESCs can be purchased very cheaply anyway and you can always just transfer it to your other robot when you build it if you buy a good one.Quote:
Originally Posted by archie2000
the £15 ones.from eBay might do right.
my mum will let me get that roboteq esc for sale if i build a fw corkscrew replica because she liked it :)
You mean vantec, not roboteq. Very different speed controllers.
Don't bother. That vantec is not suitable for a featherweight as it's oversized and relatively heavy. That's why it was in a heavyweight.
Scrap the stupid ideas about crazy pushers and build a bloody simple rammer
if only there was a like button on this forum..... :)
I'm backing will, gary and michael up on this one.
Stop blubbering on about a super robot, and be sensible look through some old threads and build a little rammer!!
Archie:
As someone who has built a powerful rambot, there is a lot to learn in the process for that kind of robot alone. I started with a drill powered rambot, then when I went for a more powerful set up, I had a lot of knowledge from the previous one, but even so, I have had to replace every bit of Satanix between 2009 and now except the chassis.
Its best to learn what works and what doesn't through experience. The simpler the robot, the less to go wrong.
I 100% agree that a simple machine should be built as a first project. But, the impression seems to be that a 4WD drill powered or Gimson powered robot is nothing especially good or powerful. This is absolutely untrue. 4 over-volted drills and you're flying.
12v drills (cheapest on the market) at 18v, wire that can handle the current, batteries that can supply the current (crucial), and of course ESCs that can handle the current, and you'll have a FW with a very real power advantage over many other machines. Design it well and get some driving practice in, and you'll have all the push you'd ever want from a first robot. Don't think you'll be a pushover (lol) if you opt for drills or Gimsons. Blowing our own trumpet a little, I'd say Tormenta had more drive power than most, or certainly many, of the robots at the 2012 champs.
I am glad that you are seeing a more realistic side to this! Hey, we all went there, I recall wanting Ampflow A28-150s for my first feather. :lol:
Jamie just posted a link to my 4WD Argos drill powered FW and its pretty nippy. Its no world beater but its good enough to start off with and its nice and simple. Most importantly, if a motor blows, its less than £15 for a whole new unit. Gimson motors didn't exist when we built that one but they're definitely a strong contender for both beginner and advanced robots now. Just use good quality parts as Ellis said, good batteries and good speed controller and it'll be a good robot, and if you decide you want to do something else, those components are transferrable. Better to spend a bit more now than to spend a cumulatively high amount over the course of the robots life.
ok it was Dave's advice i really needed.
i will get the cheapest stuff possible and learn from that
ok i have acepted the fact i would need to start simple (then give the robot to my brother)
but i still have a few questions.
Should I try and buy that vanteq/roboteq (sorry i forgot which one) of john from RR?
because they weigh 1.1kg would they be anygood with no/lighter heatsink?
my only real concern for my cheap robot would be speed control,
I suppose i could try a bang bang servo board (i think they're called that)
Because if i waste too much money on it my powerful rammer will be rubbish (but will work better i suppose)
could one be built with unused radio gear for <£50? if i use drill motors, batteries, gearbox and charger
i know clearly i should build a cheap one but i cant get that expensive one out of my head.I have a not to scale CAD but i have had to think about the price. so for drive i will use 4/8 of the banebots 2.7/8 inch wheels 0.8inch wide 40 shore $4.50 each. motors are quite likley to be rs-775s and i will probarbly go for 4 of them on 6/7 cell lipo $18.50 (i think) each. for my gears they will be mod 1.5 using 12t and 40t and 30t gears so a 12t on my motor to a 40t to 12t to 40t to 12t to 30t on my wheel. thats a good £30-£40 of gears i am more than happy to pay if they work. then my £100 speedo and some batteries
£300 ish
YOU should stay away from lipos.
ok nimhs nicads whatever
the reason i posted that list is so people can edit it and make it sound reasonable
thanks haz
how do you know if a brushless motor will do forwards and reverse?
you have just ignored what everyone said :|
get 2 drills, 2 elctronizes, giant cod radio gear, 12v 3300mah nimh battery from compenent shop, 2 100mm blue wheels from robochalleng and some hdpe
make a robot out of that.
Stay away from the rs-775's and gears.
if you want a couple of powerful drill motors these would probably be good they have allot of torque and the rpm is high so should be quite nippy
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180834588245? ... 712wt_1037
I'm all done posting here. When you are willing to actually take advice on board I will be happy to help. Until then I'm out.
Ben and Gary: He has just asked a question. He hasn't said what for. It's better just to answer.
Archie: with brushless motors, they have 3 wires. If it spins, say clockwise and you want it to spin anti clockwise, you swap over 2 of the 3 wires. There is no set pattern to this, so just swap until it does what you want.
So you know, brushless motors don't reverse direction on a normal brushless ESC. That's why people don't use them for drive motors.
sadly i'm with gary.
I'm bored of posting the same answer again and again, and this guy wont listen to us....
i have already said i will start simple.
i am listening and have taken your advice on board.
the reason i posted that list is so i can sort out how much money to spend on my first simple robot.
i just wanted to know more about robots.
sorry if it sounds like I'm not doing as you say
oh yeah thanks for the info dave
ok sorry for that
now i have my advice taking hat on would these do for drive whilst they're cheap?
http://m.diy.com/mt/www.diy.com/nav/fix ... t#features
if you can stop the hammer function on it, they are seriously.powerful.drive motors
i will try to get something from eBay/car boot sales
on 18v is that near 1hp?
may take a bit if modifying though.
and for johnnos speed control (if someone hasn't alreagy bought it) should i get it?
that will handle a few of those drills won't it
i hope i haven't said anything stupid again :arrow: