I know the welds didn't work out but I'm not sure electrical tape is the alternate answer.......
So is Binky using the disc and bulk heads from Gary and you're making your own for Conker 2?
Looking good though!
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I know the welds didn't work out but I'm not sure electrical tape is the alternate answer.......
So is Binky using the disc and bulk heads from Gary and you're making your own for Conker 2?
Looking good though!
I'm not 100% seeing the point in 2 spinner bots.
i think Gary's bulkheads are going in conker.
looks nice and snug
2 spinner bots = 2 spinner bots?
whats not to get :lol:
no polycarb arena = 0 spinner bots
:(
PJ-27: Yep, its Garys bulkheads and disc. So that will give you an idea of the type of machine it is meant to be.
When it comes to the armour, the gap was massive at the back, a good centimeter, so it needed redoing anyway. You could easily have got a spike or thin sheet of metal in that would take out the lipo's. When you pushed the back down the front came up by two inch's.
Conker II is built in virtually the same way as the original, but with some material changes and design tweaks. I have also raised the disc up so it doesn't catch on the ground like last time :-P
Archie2000: I thought that as well but given it was going to be my dads machine he got to make most of the choices. He didn't like the idea of a push bot like 540; thought it was dull, thought drum bots were not dangerous enough; I think that 540s replacement is going to make him change his mind. The list goes on. So we ended up with another spinner.
Conker has got the ability to take the disc out by removing 12 bolts, the idea being I could design a Biohazard style lifter to go in there instead or an axe or a crusher. So its not a one trick robot.
My only worry would be if we got drawn against eachnother at any point. Binky at full speed, in theory, can cut through hardox.
A new endeavor! As some of you may know, to push robotics and engineering in my university I started a robotics society.
We are currently building antweights for a internal competition and then perhaps having the chance of going against Reading uni and their antweights.
Here are the first parts of my ant; as yet unnamed.
[attachment=0:84bzdnac]20121026_193726.png[/attachment:84bzdnac]
Motors are 100:1 Mini Metal Gearmotors from Sparkfun with 42x19mm Pololu wheels.
ESC is a Sabertooth Dual 5A and the receiver is a Orange 6Ch RX.
I am going to have the chassis 3D printed at uni in ABS. We may have access to a titanium printer but it probably wouldn't be free and I am not sure if it would actually be as strong as the ABS.
Keeping with this threads maths theme, from my observations,
Sabertooth = smoke = fire.
May I ask what you think the cost of your ant weight will be?
Sabertooth =£49.90
Motors = £13.99 each
Wheels = £3.11 each
Receiver = £7 (2 for £13.99)
Battery ~ £3-6
Total ~ £90-100 excluding postage
The 3D printing will be free and I already own a transmitter.
And yes I have heard all about Sabertooth's = fire, I now own 3 and I've have no problems at all.
Same here, used them in all manners of robots from 3lbs downwards and never had a failiure, even with me taking terminal blocks off the boards.
I can definitely vouch for the strength of ABS, I've used it in a couple of projects and has proved to be a strong material in all of them, very shock resistant.
I have never had a problem with sabertooths, I think they are brilliant. Good cut outs etc.
All the parts have arrived for the ant so after measuring their real dimensions I have been able to create a CAD model...
[attachment=0:26nnwyou]Silicon Antweight.png[/attachment:26nnwyou]
Green Box = 5A Sabertooth
Black Box = Orange Receiver
Blue Box = 180mAh Hyperon 2S Lipo
Motors = 100:1 Metal Gearbox
Wheels = 42x19mm Pololu
Chassis = 3D Printed ABS 2-6mm Thick
The CAD is just to visualise it, I still have all the internal stuff to do and the split line but it gets all the parts in no problem. Now what were all the key things to remember when designing for 3D printing... hmmm...
Looks pretty cool, guessing its a flipper so where's the servo or lifter?
No weapons, all the weight has gone in the motors for maximum torque and pushing power!
Finally Progress! :)
Been so hectic at uni have only just been able to sort out the last few details to get Conker mechanically functional.
First a bit of Binky...
[attachment=2:2pmb50sd]20121213_143310.jpg[/attachment:2pmb50sd]
My first real bit of machine work. Lathed out the core of the 40T pulley to slip in the clutched bearing and then locked it in with 2 3mm grub screws. Then into the bolt which is functioning as the discs axle I put 2 6mm grub screws. This better be as strong as it looks as this is what will be spinning up Binky's disc.
On to Conker and modifying the Blue wheels. To save space I put them on the 'wrong' way round saving about 20mm but they kept fouling on the chassis. To stop this I put in washers but all that did was cause the front bearing to jam up and burn out one of the motors.
[attachment=1:2pmb50sd]20121214_111524.jpg[/attachment:2pmb50sd]
Now I have recessed in a M8 washer so that the wheel tightens onto the lip behind the screw thread, not onto the motor.
Also I have added the bolt that fixes the twin pulleys to the disc itself. The coutersunk bolt hides neatly in the left hand pully and then it tapped into the right with an M8 thread.
But the main event is that the armour has finally been welded up! :D
[attachment=0:2pmb50sd]20121214_153301.jpg[/attachment:2pmb50sd]
As you can see there is quite a box of oxidisation on the left hand side but most of the welds on the right are untainted. I was able to modify the HDPE under layer so that it wall fits nicely together so the only things left now are the wiring and the top Ti panel.
Quite a bit of detail there but it seemed a shame to waste it :lol:
oooh that is beautiful, really nice robot you have there.
If you have space issues with 100mm wheels, buy some competition wheels; they're much thinner.
The wheel width was never really the issue it was just how far they stuck out from the front of the motor. I have considered going to Banebots wheels but that will have to wait. Though I still have yet to drive her like this with the new armour... she may not even run!
Looks so cool aaaa! Can't wait to see it run. :)
(now give the electronize the boot and you're on to a winner :b)
Looks really good :) got some pictures of it with the top off?
Just going to leave this here:
http://darkdemon.org/user-files/16909/1355520556.png
Is this some sort of robot prophecy? :P
If we ever collaborate on a machine, Alex, we're calling it Torconka. I have decided.
Ok short report... she runs... poorly.
The driving feels just like the old conker; slugish to respond, twitchy, uneven. I think I can put most of this down to the crap ESC's I am using - Electronize FR30HX.
She loves going forwards but will only go back left. Spinning to the left is fine but spinning right is slow and uneven.
On the plus side, the armour is running so low to the ground that it was rubbing shavings off the vinyl floor in the kitchen!
In short I think I need different ESC's, these are just not up to the task, and I need to fix some foamy stuff to the underside of the armour when I bolt it down to it can ride over bumps.
Sorry no vid as I am the only one in the house.
Ellis, the fact that Conker 1 and Tormenta 1 looked so similar despite being developed in two entriely different countries is remarkable enough in itself.
What about Conkamentia? Or simply Titan? Cos our robots seem to just be Titanic in size! Its a shame they seem to sink just as easily!
Mouldy, I can take some but its a mess as its the same rushed wiring that I did for UWE freshers. Over the holidays it will get some proper TLC and decent wiring with heat shrink etc. not the masses of electrical tape and wobbley ESC's
get some tz85's :)
might be worth grinding some clearance down the side armour and keeping the front low... although having low side armour seems a good idea, a flippers wedge will always be lower, so the benifits arent that great.
Yeah, that was the idea behind Conker 1, they will get under regardless so make it harder for them to have control when they do...
And after seeing the difference between Tormenta 1 on FR30HX and the TZ85's in Tormenta 2 I am almost certainly going to get some!
Try making everybody laugh by calling it Tonka!
Only just seen your build pictures of Binky .... its looking very good. Looks like you've done a very neat job on the armour.
Merry Christmas everyone!
Thought I would share my rather mad ideas...
[attachment=1:15kxkn35]HV Conker Concepting 01 800.jpg[/attachment:15kxkn35]
Meet Heavyweight Conker; no idea what I would actually call it.
Two A28-400 Mag-Motors for drive with 180mm wheels. 4 wheel drive created with 32mm T10 timing belts.
400mm disc or bar driven by a Perm PMG-132; the same motor that Last Rights uses for its weapon, running at 48V. The max in the rules is 48V without prior approval, but Last Rights run 58V so maybe I could go higher.
No idea what the chassis will be. Sewer Snake's is all Aluminium so I might be able to make it like that. The idea was to use Hardox Extreme; or what the equivalent, for the Titanium sections on the new machine.
Of course I can't use the spinner here in the UK so my plan is to make the central supports, with all the bits that makes the disc run, removable so I can swap in a hydraulic crusher; different weapon, same bite!
Chances of this ever happening are pretty slim but hey its interesting to see what could be made!
PS PDF here if the pic is to small...[attachment=0:15kxkn35]HV Conker Concepting 01.pdf[/attachment:15kxkn35]
Need some advice...
I was going to put the solid state relay from conker 1 straight into conker 2 but the relay says that it is only rated to 30V on the high amp side. I am running 37V (10S) now so will this relay survive or do I need to go and get a new one?
If I do need a new one what can people recommend?
EDIT: Just had a thought could I run each S900 off a 85A botbits ESC?
I believe the Botbitz are 6s max...
They are 6S yes, and a 10S is 42v fully charged so that SSR won't cut it.
Not sure I've ever seen an SSR rated that high before. The only people I know that run 10s on their weapon are brushless.
I think this might cut it...
http://www.active-robots.com/3951-0-dc- ... v-80a.html
Just a pair of questions...
With the Banebots wheels and the hubs how do you get the ring onto the end to hold the wheels on as brute force doesn't seem to work. Is their some kind of special technique
Firestorm had a sheet of 2mm spring steel across the front to make sure that it would run across the ground. What kind of spring steel and thickness would people think could produce the same kind of effect on a featherweight?
I have considered buying a load of cheap plastering-flattening whatsits.
Like this: http://www.currytrowel.com/images/101_lg.jpg
Unlikely but it might work for a while!
You get dedicated circlip pliers, specially designed to fit in the holes in the circlip that allow you to open them up a bit, making it easier to fit/remove them:Quote:
Originally Posted by Eventorizon
http://www.technobotsonline.com/tools-a ... liers.html
Personally I just use an old pair of needle-nose pliers that have a reasonably fine tip. They're not perfect and can sometimes slip out of the holes but get the job done. Just use pliers of some sort to open the clip up and try and fit it around the groove in the Banebots hub. An extra pair of hands can come in useful if you're finding it a bit too fiddly to do on your own.
Thanks Jamie, we will give that a go
Need help with an electronics issue...
When I apply power to what should be a finished drive system the receiver and relays inside the ESC's fire on and off at a regular rate rather than staying on. I am using a BEC so that may be cooked but it smells fine.
It could be that I have the cables into the receiver in the wrong way round but I have swapped them over and get the same result.
Battery is freshly charged.
Ideas?
Put a servo into one of the spare channels on the rx and see what it does
Does nothing no matter than channel. Rebound the TX and RX and still naught.
EDIT: Just tried another receiver and still nothing... maybe its the transmitter. I had to repair the arial a few weeks ago but I have had it driving since.
There is a switch missing from the transmitter that got damaged and I am in the process of replacing. Would the Gear switch missing matter?
EDIT: It cant be the transmitter if its binding new receivers can it?
What does a flashing Orange RX mean? Cos thats what I've got. But it works.
I seem to have sorted it but I have no idea what I have done... running now off an Orange RX, same BEC