I believe the hack is mostly (if not entirely) changing the firmware on the ESC, physically a brushless ESC is capable of controlling a brushed motor so some companies built in the ability to do both.
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I believe the hack is mostly (if not entirely) changing the firmware on the ESC, physically a brushless ESC is capable of controlling a brushed motor so some companies built in the ability to do both.
i know this isn't quite related but i was just wandering if anyone else finds the 50a blue speed controllers a bit twitchy or is it just that 1 of mine might be naff
they are not the best controllers in the world, plus 2 single controllers are often more twitchy etc compared to a dual speedo
i even tried hooking a gyro up and and it kept turning left a bit then right a bit about 2 to 5 times then stopped so i took that out
the other thing that i wandered might be the problem is the v tail mixer, its the same one on the giant shark website
A - What issues do you find down low? Does it take more stick then you expect to make the robot move? Have a chat to Steve (Marto) on the RoboWars forum, he can probably look at changing the code to make the controllers more responsive to your requirements. I believe at the moment the controllers have a decent size dead band to be more compatible with cheaper radios like the HK TX4A's, so this might also be apart of what your seeing. From my testing, the ESCheap85's were a lot nicer to drive then when I was using Victor883's, but not as nice as my IBC (I loved that controller :( )Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_turbulence
B - Correct, there was originally a programming method built into the controllers by doing stick and beep codes like most brushless controllers, but we were a little worried about people entering programming mode during a battle (caused by power resets) so it was removed. Pretty much everyone we've ever spoken to has preferred braking enabled. If you would like a custom set without it, we can do that.
C - As apart of the programming method, Steve introduced the motor beeping code. When the programming idea was scrapped, he left the beeping code in the firmware to provide another method to alert builders that a robot is powered on. I believe this may have been removed from recent firmware changes as well, I will have to have a chat with Steve about it.
Any other comments or feedback, throw them up on the Botbitz thread on the RoboWars forum, or check out our facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/botbitz/). We're happy to make changes to suit peoples requirements.
I've found another option from china
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T2000-Dual-Mo ... 3610wt_922
I always smile when I see 75A continuous and 160A peak in the specs, and a Tamiya plug on the battery lead. :)
Tried to test the botbitz controllers today on 9.2v with 2 12v drill motors attached but one of them doesn't seem to be working :( . I'll have another look at my soldering and see if its that, but it looked ok when I did it. Don't really want to have to send them all the way back to Auz to get looked at :?
FYI - my second pair of botbitz tz85's arrived today... no customs charge :)
antazz - tried a higher voltage?
Leo- alot of brushed/brushless escs on the market such as the mamba monster max etc seem to have a delay between forward/reverse of 2 seconds or so.... so not really ideal for drive in robots.
speaking of botbitz, just seen their new motors, looking quite good atm. bigger shaft would be good.