Looking really good there, I'm sure it will perform well...just like its shape and style of weapon, have to come over to see it when you're done building it!
Printable View
Looking really good there, I'm sure it will perform well...just like its shape and style of weapon, have to come over to see it when you're done building it!
My degree is over!!! Surprisingly I decided to relax by giving Binky some TLC.
In short she is fine electronically but has taken quite a lot of physical damage. The main one was to the armour when we landed from LF3 in the Melee.
Attachment 3765
First thing I did was blast down the armours welds ready to have them beefed up/redone entirely. The welds that we paid for on Binky were weaker than the ones that we had done for free at Un for Conker 2. Go figure.
Attachment 3761
I need to show how shiny the wheels look now but this is the state they were in before I washed them. Now they are grippy and shiny and free of grease from the GR02's which have been leaking; I don't think they are supposed to drip grease.
Attachment 3764
The pulley cut a grove into the weapon motor shaft which took some effort to remove... very carefully. I filed down the grove and then gently sanded it so the pulley now goes back on without catching.
Attachment 3763
The broken Cir-clip was a pain to replace but I got it off. Took the opportunity to look inside the HK-40. It's been balanced with this blue paste which I found slightly amusing.
Attachment 3762
Got an issue with the bulkheads where, despite putting in the steel spacers that they come with, they are slowly eating the flanges. I need to solve this quickly before it fails during a fight and the disc goes flying. One of the bearing had also ceased up totally and the other was pretty stiff. Both had lost a lot of grease which I think is probably the reason why they have both basically failed. They were like £12 each from RS too so not exactly cheap-o's. Maybe I will have to get the £40 ones.
Attachment 3760
Also blasted down the disc in preparation for hutting off the inner teeth. They do little for the inertia and are really sharp so I would prefer to use the 150g elsewhere.
Attachment 3759
The next phase after this is to start planning exactly what improvements we are going to make. The main ones I think are to reshape the front to better expose the disc and also do what is done on LH3 and link the armour to the base with a lip of metal and bolts round the bottom. This will drastically stiffen the machine up and mean that the disc will be the first thing to hit another robot rather than the wedge.
There are also plans to make a alternative weapon head, basically a vertical version of NST's bar. The disc has a 12mm gap under it to reach the base plate so the new bar can be slightly wider and spin faster which would give it better engagement.
Nothing too horrific. I would recommend removing the shaft from the brushless and replacing it with a full diameter shaft right the way through. A small spacer such as a washer should handle the rubbing issue
On replacing the shaft - is this easy to do (e.g. a vice and some care) or does it require a press and other none garage things?
It requires an arbour press and a few other things we don't have.
I personally don't feel comfortable replacing the shaft, but I don't see the need on Binky. You need it in situations where the motor is attached to a different bulkhead or mount to that of the weapon so that the shaft wont bend if the two twist. If Binky ever twists to that point... that will be the least of our worries as the motor and weapon are attached to the same body.
The shaft is 6mm all the way down anyway. if we go up to 8mm then I doubt the pulley will have enough material left to put the grub screw in anyway.
no need for a press. Take out the grub screws at the back of the motor and a swift tap with a hammer will knock it out.
I would go for a keyway on the shaft if possible rather than a grub. I've had many issues in the past with grubs coming loose.
You need a press to put the shaft back in as it is a press fit. There are some 10mm silver steel bars in the back of a cupboard which would be good to switch to.
I was going to get one of the technicians to put a flat on the shaft which would be a little better.
Hammer works for both removal and installation. Alternatively a 4 inch bench vice generally has all the length you will need to install and remove shafts.
Agreed. I swapped the shaft of my brushless from 5mm to 8mm using just a hammer and a vice. Cutting the circlip groove was done by putting the shaft in the pillar drill chuck and holding a hacksaw against it while it was spinning. It's worked fine ever since (about the only part of the machine that hasn't broken down).
Maybe it is worth the effort then. Its got a 6mm shaft already but going to 8 or even 10 might be a good move if I can get the pulley over it.
Conker 3's HK-4035-800kv comes with an 8mm shaft as standard so no mods needed there.