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I'm only using banebots wheels from now on- on 720 as I've got about 20 kicking around plus 2 new sets... 722 is getting new wheels... they come bored ready for direct fitment onto the banebots shafts, come in varying sizes and are 2inch wide (sooo badass) also a material that dont go all fury... id tell you what they are but then everyone would have them lol
Colsons?
Nope.
NPC Robotics? http://hobby.npcrobotics.com/store/products/wheels/ (Probably not, but they perfectly match the description for folks wanting some of your 'secret sauce')
damn.
well.. these;
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/NPC-PT314.html
I'm guessing its the same thing... possibly there made to order as i haven't even received a shipping tracking number from RMP yet... bit concerning as i spent a fair few hundred dollars with them the same day I made my banebots order.
There is a trick to ordering from the RMP: if the stock status below the price says 'available' (like it does on those wheels) then the part is NOT in the RMP warehouse and has to be ordered in. Given the part number at RMP, its definitely a Colson wheel with NPC's custom hub. The 2" wheels have a huge amount of grip and should last a long time,
Yeah that's what i was aiming for, cleaning the banebots gets boring and scrubing the OD of the wheels has a knock-on effect on the gyro/self righting on 720... the slightly larger OD and width should keep it a bit more predictable when i want to flip it over... Looks like the tyre is a dark grey/black on the NPC but a light grey on RMP site...also the RMP one doesnt have "colson" stamped on it in the picture... I figured if it wasn't a genuine colsons its going to be something very similar... even though i thought the 4"x2" colsons only came in black.
I think the pictures on the RMP site show copies of Colsons; there are some tiny differences to mouldings and that lettering. The photos on the NPC site look like the real thing. The NPC guys are into high quality parts, they wouldn't use anything they didn't think was top quality.
Yeah.. hopefully rmp is just a distributor for npc... not making cheap knock offs.
parcel finally arrived after ordering from RMP months ago with my new wheels…ended up having to track down jim on facebook and give him a poke to get them shipped… but… below are my new drive combos for 720 and 722;
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...pswq4x6bsx.jpg
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps5ihrkaoc.jpg
Old school banebots kit in orange with my new motor support kits… in the grey is 722's new set-up, 2" wide colsons… still very grippy but harder wearing then the banebots stuff, if a bit more heavy…also the banebots gearbox has the optional longer shaft at the moment, which ill be cutting down slightly. The colsons being wider will have a nock on effect to 722's outer armour making it slightly wider then 720.
They look robust, can't wait to see the build of 722. Get busy!
That drive train looks very solid and reliable, although the 722 version must be getting close to 2 Kg for a pair with the heavier wheel.
Just checked... 1080g before chopping the shaft down... so 370g more than last year between the two drive setups... i was underweight this year but not by much... however im getting a smaller lipo so that should offset the difference a fair bit. I dont mind spending the extra weight if it proves more robust.... hopefully i can get enough weight for thicker top armour aswell... id like it to go upto 3mm grade 5 ti ideally... to achieve that the side armour will change a tad to save a few grams... will probably have a bit more ground clearance around the sides to allow it to flip over easier...and save a few grams lol
LOL, I wish I could guess the weight of my own parts that accurately. Estimating the weight of a new bot design is a thankless task - no matter how detailed I get, the real thing always weighs more! Are you going for Hardox or Ti side armour?
722? Damn, as if the original wasn't dangerous enough!
I reckon it will be Hardox side armour. Will you be messing with the drum at all Dave? Going true single tooth or Making it wider etc...
Ideally hardox sides- where do you buy your titanium nick? I need some 3mm large enough for my top panel.
those motor support kits look good mate, a top geezer musta made those
Not much of an update but i found a weakness in the banebots during the champs, in that the circlip that holds the shaft in to the gearbox poped of twice on 2 different gearboxes, im putting this down to the amount of side movement in the shaft from new and the huge sideloading i put through them from not supporting the shaft on the opposite side...solved this by making up some spacers and tig welding the plate onto the shaft end after replacing the bearings with brand new ones as they felt a tad notchy.
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...psrovavu86.jpg
Next proper update should be a bit better.
Nicely done! Your gearboxes are a newer model than mine, perhaps Banebots changed something that caused the circlip problem. The carrier plate looks a bit thicker, was it always that colour or is that caused be the TIG work?
Always wondered if "just a circlip" as in the banebots pictures was a dodgy way of dealing with side ways loads.
The dimentions are exactly the same as the other style...im actually running the old style on the other side of the robot...as i had 3 old styles and had to order a new one and pressumed it would turn up the same :(
Also thats not the one which broke, that ones brand new...
The colour is just down to the welding- probably risidual machining oil on the carrier plate thats done it.
Hopefully it should work nicely. Im glad the side movement of the shaft has gone anyhow :)
Progress!
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps5xv7kwe0.jpg
722's chassis on the left... few bits to do still including probably re making one bulkhead but you get the idea... thanks to andy at optipower for donating 6 awesome lipos for the robots! The smaller lipo means the tz85s can sit on the rear slide in plate and the lipo can go inside the rear bulkhead/back plate.
... previously the lipo and esc were very close to the top/bottom and were vunerable to axe attacks...
Also thanks obviously to ed for stamping me out another chassis from alumec 89 lol
Hopefully the carbon fibre for the electronics plates turn up soon so i can chop them out... then once im happy with the chassis i can start the armor.
Is 722 getting a new drum or is the one from this year going on?
Can see this being the one to beat. Be afraid, be very afraid, one of my plywood creations may be entering the champs next year muwahahahaha!!!
Is the Lipo pack just smaller, or smaller capacity as well? Seems to me that you need as many AH as possible to feed than monster weapon motor.
Smaller capacity. I barely use 2.5ah after a full 3min, gone down from 5000mah to 3600. The smaller pack still produces enough burst current to handle the aggressive spinup.
Sam- ti drum for 722, 720's getting the old ali drum back.
Which motor is it you use on 720? It's rather impressive to use only 2.5ah after the 3 minutes...
As for the new one too, it's looking pretty awesome. Bet those Colsons will help loads with the traction too! Is 720 sticking with it's current setup and everything, just going back to the old drum?
Both bots use castle creations neu 1515-2200kv motors... but there both customised with the front face plates removed, 10mm alumec fronts that key into the motor can with twice the amount of mounting bolts in the can than standard, with helicoiled threads, larger 10mm high speed bearings (up from the standard 5mm), custom shafts and a support bearing for the other end of the shaft thats pressed into the bulkhead... basically took them of the shelf and "combat hardened" them.
There great motors off the shelf... NST bent the shaft on mine slightly in 2013 so i went all out for 2014 and it worked great.
Ahh, sounds good - cheers!
They seem very powerful, and low voltage too compared to some of the outrunners which is nice. They seemed to work really well with those adjustments, really quite a reliable mechanism you've got there!
As a rule of thumb, In-runners are lower voltage and Higher KV and Out-runners are lower KV and Higher Voltage.
In-runners go up to about 8S max voltage where as a Out-runner will take 12S. However, In-runners can go as high as 5000Kv+ where as most Out-runners do 500-1000kv, only 10-20% of the In-runners.
This all of course depends upon their size. Scorpion have a HK-25 that does 3500kv, and a Turnigy 1015 can do 11'500KV. On the other end I have seen a liquid cooled in-runner as low as 620Kv and a Our-runner at a mere 168kv!
This has been Roseanne, your guide to the world of facts.
That's really interesting! I always assumed 720's motor had a much higher power rating as I need a Neu 2210 motor with almost twice the power to get Shiny's eggbeater spinning at the same or lower RPM. That's suggesting that eggbeaters are very inefficient and I might have to change to a drum in the future.
Wouldnt be suprised... wind resistance has a massive effect on continuous current draw.. all the air inside the beater will be wofting around causing a massive amount of drag.
The spinning OD has a large effect on spinup current aswell.. my drum is only 95mm tip to tip and the gear ratio is 3:1... quite high considering the OD of the weapon.
I spent more time deciding on weapon motor/ratio/drum weight when designing 720 than anything else and its worked out really well... the castle motor only gets what id consider luke warm after 3min of abuse, and now its combat hardened i wont be changing them.
Do you reckon a drum with no teeth, just sort of an abrasive surface would do any damage? Like mega course sand paper almost?
No, not anymore anyway. It'd scuff paint and HDPE but rip/blunt/make lots of noise on anything hard.
not done much in ages…Life got in the way… going to start doing a bit more soon hopefully…
Thanks for Grant for helping me put my ideas into a CAD file that i can send to the laser cutters next week… ive lasered some cardboard templates to see what the hardox version will look like… 722's armour is a bit different to 720's…never really liked the spikes on the side, its not very refined… so spent some time coming up with the new shape which should also help in a few ways…. Card mockup;
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...psrxzwv3vx.jpg
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...psowxlh2mu.jpg
Im happy with it, hardox is going to the laser cutters in the next few fays :)
Goddammit! That's what I was thinking of for armour on Drumroll next year, based on the Aussie drumbot Reboot. Might try it with tube instead, see how that goes.
Totally not copying.
whats reboot?
…also… glad you commented first… i put this up specifically so you'd see it and not rip me off haha…if you do… we have proof now :D
DEAD SEXY! It looks tricky to weld though, will you be making up some jigs or just using lots of clamps?
That looks really awesome! Interested to see how that shape works out in combat. Also be interesting to see how those Colsons work out vs. the Banebots ones, they definitely look a lot grippier to say the least!