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started on the sides of psycho ram yesterday, what a disaster! didnt fit very fustrating but today a much better day top and sides attached to base and each other and ive thought of a new side design.
bad thing though was i was building in the rain, ducking and diving from my shed to house :sad:
hopefully should have more pics tomorrow and it should be ready for space centre....i hope
(Message edited by psycho fling on June 18, 2007)
well all the armour done, dont know how long itll last though!
pics on the website, just wondered people opinions about the design how it looks etc, and also where i should put the metal ram bit high up or low down? both pics on there
http://www.psychoflingteam.co.ukwww.psychoflingteam.co.uk
robot improvements
alex
If you put it low down, the metal ram bit will combine quite effectively with the vertical front part of Psycho Ram. For example, the metal wedge will lift the other robots off the ground and the vertical front bit will stop them from going straight over the top of you - that way youll be free to push them around :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6tCKTPsVQohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6tCKTPsVQo
Just made a video of my featherweight hoovas first experience. Hoova was origanly built for my gf but I ended up taking it to guildford to be trashed. However no matter how many times it flew, its rubbish plastic armour would not break. I was expecting to be rebuilding it out of polycarb right about now but its still good enough to take to more events.
Long live hoova!
that was an amazing robot haha so hard to drive
like the video :)
ps doing a major upgrade in beauty (AGAIN)
Im very suprised Hoova survived in 1 peice !
My brother wanted his robot added so here it is.
Splash!
Weight 6kgs
Drive- 2x 9.6v drills running 100mm wheels
Battries- 12v Ni-Mh pack
Speed Controller- 2x RC smart 50Amp
Armour- 18mm MDF and 6mm plastic
It is made from parts from old machines and was built in a day but no matter how hard I try I just cant break it.
pic on profile
Splash did very well at its last event. Was cool to see it!
Mr Stu
18mm mdf, thats pretty tough material to get through.
but it leaves quit a mess when a spinner hits it.
From what I see he uses it as a structural strength (like alu angle) which looks like it works quite well.
Looks nice will.
ya its wat ive been using on my new feather extremely hard to get through if u have 3/8 mm poly on it to
Just finished the first set of spin up tests with hornet 2.
Managed a good dozen spin ups with the disc mechanism working well. The disc is obviously unbalanced as it was vibrating the entire machine around a bit.
The vibrations managed to dislodge a number of bolts which allowed the disc to flex slightly and to take out the flange on the timing belt cog attached to the magmotor.
Bit of repair work to do and some improvements to be made but it is looking good for the eurochamps in july.
Photo of the damage to the timing belt cog is on my profile and i will be uploading videos to youtube soon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNyI9890iI8http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNyI9890iI8
DragonStrikes rebuild works great see pic on profile:mrgreen:
works very well, was that at the FW cahmps?
Prodigy rebuilt- pic on profile, just got to cut the polycarb lid, mount the link and its done, now has 8 & 10mm polycarb armour, alot lower aswell it now plains the floor,upgraded batteries, thanks to everyone involved over the last few weeks, you know who you are. see you at euro champs saturday if your going, uk champs was a 3rd place, so looking to improve on that:wink:
Looking good :)
cheers ewan, will upload a couple of vids i have from the champs fighting the spinners.
just started putting on the armour onto psycho fling, parts riveted some bolted others will be screwed, hopefully ill be able to get it into working order (including lifter) for wales
im currently building my featherweight at the moment and have changed design from pneumatic flipper to linear actuator crusher.
- making a razer style claw
- linear actuator in base of robot
problem
- making the straight movement into crushing power, at the moment it holds gently or drags claw backwards . Help needed . thanks
will try and get picture on profile later to help :)
Id make the claw and actuator assembly something like this .. +1>-------+2>C+2>.
where the --- is the actuator C is the claw and . is the claw pivot point.
Moving the actuator connection point up or down the back of the c (claw) will give you various jaw openings and crushing power.
(Message edited by woody on July 23, 2007)
thanks for that idea, simular to dragons claw.
how does a razer style claw work then ?
pictures of testing can be found on http://www.freewebs.com/snowshifterswww.freewebs.com/snowshifters ,this will give you an idea of what im trying to do.}
Razers claw works almost the same but with the pivot point and the actuator conection swapped around. The simplest way to explain it would be to have a bar of some sort, put a pivot in the centre and push on the bottom. This would rotate the bar. All you need to do then is shape the bar to a curve, work out the best distance between the actuator and pivot and your well on your way to a razer type crusher.
Flow! is nearly done so i thought i would post the specs.
Name: Flow!
Armour: 2mm Stainless
Chassis: the whole chassis is 16mm nylon the base is routered to 5mm to loose weight
Drive: Bosch 35s
Power: 2 x 7.2v 2.3ah race packs giving 14.4.v
Control: 2 x electronize and specktrum
Weapon: Full Pressure 60mm bore by 95mm stroke Square ram, fired by a burkert, fed by a 3 x volume buffer, from a 20oz paintball bottle.
Just to mention, as we dont have the weapon system of Hannibalito II anymore, I had a month to create a new weapon system.
Hannibalito III is a strange fish in our stable.
The ram is diminished from 61mm bore 80mm stroke to 51 mm bore 75mm stroke.
The drive, from the hugely overpowered Speed 900s on a sidewinder with 18V 3600mAh NiMh Sanyos goes to the feeble Speed 720 BB torques on a Scorpion XL on 2300mAh batteries.
In other words, its an efford to avoid Self OOTAs
No it isnt.
Mario, are you using the same inlet to your ram as H2?
If so H3 may well be a better flipper as theres less volume to fill up with the same flow :proud:
there are 2 main reasons to the reduction in size and motors.
1: To get the weight down for more armour.
2: To reduce the forces on the parts in case of a miss.
Self OOTAs and other robots OOTA is still a very big possibility.
The inlet in the H III ram is sleightly bigger. From the bottleneck in the bottom of the ram of 8mm diameter to a full 1/2 inlet.
This constraint was set by myself in an efford to create a low profile, so a double sided driving robot was possible. We never did build H II as thus, as the wheels, and reduction became so big and heavy it couldnt fit in and leave weight for armor.
The force of the ram is lowered with 1/3 from 1500 kg+ to a mere 1000 kg
And Leo, dont tell all the secrets... I never mentioned the Unobtanium armor.:)
Im not an exper on pneumatics, but i know a reasonable amount. I presume that because your force is 1/3 less (so volume will be 1/3 smaller) that you ram will now fire to a full stroke in 2/3rds of the time? In this case H3 should be throwing feathers much higher :proud:
Put simply Acceleration = Force / Mass, so the more force you have lifting the other robot the faster it will accelerate until it leaves the flipper arm, of course if the pneumatics dont generate that force because of the flow restriction, then it will reduce the force from that expected, there are some online calculators to work out how far in theory you can throw a robot, but in the end its simpler to just build the biggest ram with the highest flow possible in the weight.
That is a fact. However there comes a point where it really becomes academic how much power you put in to it. Your robto and your opponents robot only weigh in at 12kg, so shoving them in the air with 250kg or 500kg at the point of the arm, unless you want to compare trajectories, both will do the job.
Pic on profile of Dragons Claw hopefully will be done for next week lots of holes to drill:mrgreen:
Looks the business Tony. To me the back end looks a bit heavy, probably because its quite far back - does it affect its turning much??
Think I ought to start getting my crusher built too :)
Very nice. Cant wait to fight it :)
Dont know yet have not put drive motors on yet as i have got to get it welded first should have that done tomorrow then get it driving sat or sunday will let you know then
Oops, missed the fact that the components aint mounted down yet :crazy: