Thanks David, I wondered what was going on :?
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Thanks David, I wondered what was going on :?
Is this wiring diagram for a solid state relay and a battle switch correct, I made this last year but I cant remember if its right or not... I think the polarity of the red and yellow wires on the low voltage input are the wrong way round.
Attachment 3608
On Binky how did you guys attach the pulley to the disk and still keep the sides flush, so you could put thrust bearings between them and the bulkheads?
The Pulley is attached to the shaft through a one way bearing which is keyed in to both the shaft & pulley. The shaft spins in bearings mounted into the disc supports. The Disc is bolted to a pair of spacers/supports which grip the shaft with a pair of grub screws. 2mm thrust bearings then go between the Bulkhead and the pulley, the pulley and the disc supports then finally the support on the other side of the disc and the second bulkhead.
I will get a pic up at some point if I can cos that reads back like a mess.
Haha, a picture would be great! I'm sure what you said makes sense but struggling to visualise...
Quick question, I have just got my hands on a 1.2m square, 1.2mm thick sheet of Ti10 from uni biut Ti10 is coming up blank in all my google searches. There is a load of stuff stamped across it repeatedly but Its not with me atm but I will find out what it says!
So can someone tell me what Ti 10 is?
EDIT: Got my answer its grade 5 titanium, but an obscure aero grade.
What do people think... on Conker 3 should I drop the 4WD in order to optimise the weapon or keep it cos that's the style of the machine? Conker 1 & 2 had all the weight in the wrong place. If I drop the 4WD then I could take the drisk up to 4 or even 4.5kg but then I might as well be building a drum bot like 720. As cool as C3 looks at the moment its still not optimised for combat unlike Binky or NST or 720. Thoughts?
would you be able to save weight by dropping 2 motors and use pulleys to drive the other 2 wheels then you could make it more compact
You can have both worlds. I'd say certainly drop the 4 motors. It's not necessary unless your primary purpose is to push. Cobalt was the perfect example of 2 motors and 2 wheels outdoing the competition, though, and that was down to good design. If the wheels are "in the middle" of the machine, à la Cobalt, I imagine you can also sort of fake the steadiness of 4WD through ESCs with breaking and/or a gyro. I can see that being worth pursuing if you still want to be ahead of most competition in terms of drive.
Sorry to rip a hole in your example Ellis, but Cobalt was 4WD ;)
EDIT: Just to add to the discussion, 2WD gives a touch more manoeuverability, which can be highly advantageous for spinners. Unless you want to have a solid back-up should the spinning weapon fail, 4WD is usually unnecessary.