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I will let you guys know when they arrive. That way you may be able to suggest a good process to take.
And yeah its really really odd. For all I know its the univerities WiFi getting in the way but if its not strong enough for my Laptop to pick up a signal where I test then I can't see how its strong enough to kill my signal
On a different note... C3.
[attachment=0:1i1yrm6l]Conker 3.5.1 Internal Clip.pdf[/attachment:1i1yrm6l]
As its stands its at 13.25kg in CAD and I will leave it there as I am missing wires and bolts and stuff is always slightly heavier than you think.
A 3kg, 17.5mm single tooth drum driven by a HK-5035-500kv @ 37V on a 3:2 ratio, making 12'000 rpm at the drum; theoretically. 2x GR02 24V drive with 73mm banebots wheels linked by belts to give 4WD. The chassis is various aluminium types. 10mm 7075 for the outer walls, 10mm 5082 for the inner walls and 16mm Alumec 89 for the drum supports. Base and sloped top armour are 2mm Ti2 (Looking to go to Grade 6) and the other top section is 1.2mm TA10 or Ti64. The front blade is 5mm Ti6.
If anyone can see any glaring issues let me know. I am trying to keep the essence of conker's 1&2 whilest completely changing the machines weight distribution which is well... difficult.
if your going to all that effort you mayaswell get that wedge with some side angles that go down to the floor to deflect horizontals.. as it is, it will just get riped off... the angles should also prevent it getting stuck on its nice flat sides....
otherwise it looks good, apart from the fact that 12000rpm is lame and i thought you'd want to try and out do me? It's all about getting your rpm's into the teen's nowadays :lol:
Edit; Also im pretty sure the minimum thickness you can get alumec in is 20mm (ish - comes over size slightly) not sure if you have access to a decent mill to machine it down.
I could go for 1:1 ratio with the HK50, that would mean 18'500 lossless, does that make you happier? And yeah the angled edges are on the 'to do' list when I have done the CAD for my project.
If I can all the 2mm pieces will go to grade 6 as the Grade 2 is a little bendy.
Hmm with the Alumec, I could mill it down. It would take a while but I could get it to exactly 16mm. As an Alumini I can go back to uni so I could have all the pieces milled and finished to exactly 10mm or what ever it may be. Much better fit that way to!
Yeah, thats what Ed Wallace has done for me before. It machines really nicely too. all off 720's plates were skimed down to perfectly 20mm before any profile work was done.
And 18000rpm would be awesome... when it engages lol 720 engages relatively well on single tooth now running 13600ish, i think you could possibly get upto 16000rpm before it causes to much of an issue... (some dissagree)
Also what method of drive are you planning on the drum? Belts?
Looking good :) a beasty motor your putting there too!
I prefer slower spinning disc's to super speed drum's. It depend's what you want out of the weapon I guess. A pointy single tooth will always do alot more damage than a wide bar will, and so if at over 10,000rpm your not just grinding, your likely to send robots flying in the air rather than tear a huge chunk out.
That's my personal preference though :rofl:
For the bulkheads - if alumec only comes in such a thick form, it might be worth just going for a nice piece of 2014 or so as that will be plenty strong enough still.
One of conker's points was that the disc was at top speed in less than a second. Ok, it only did it once but it allowed it to flip 4 4 Toon three times while inertia was still spinning up! The reason it burnt out was cos it was touching the dam floor the entire fight. If it hadn't I would reckon that Conker might have racked up enough points to come 2nd rather than last.
This time, its all down to engagement on how fast I will spin it. I would like to be capable of both; tossing for the spectical and tearing for winning. I went for the 2:3 ratio for that reason. Mouldy is getting good engagement with what is similar to a single tooth at around 12K so a true single tooth should be great at that speed.
As for ripping, I will probably design another drum which I can take in and out. Might have to tweak the design so that can happen but it would be worth it. A drum with a single massive (like 30mm, maybe 35mm) tooth on it would me my preference, with a heavy steel tube providing maximum rotational moment.
Drums are pretty rubbish at cutting... If that's what you want your best of sticking to a disc... Drums are better at pulling of panels/flipping opponents and generally just being relentless and anoying to fight.
Best way to win against a drum is with something like NST that can keep it at distance.
Its a hard game to play, picking your weapon. Boner and 720 are both great examples of drums and both have/have the potential to cause massive damage. TBH I don't mind what the damage is as long as it is able to disable an opponent; I would rather not destroy them if I can help it.
But I cant think of anything that is truly any good against NST. TS2 is pretty close as it can get under the bar and toss it up if it hits it right, just like it did in november. My hope for C3 is that NST would bounce up off the front blade and I would be able to get in and attack the bar supports. Also the HK-50 will give me a very short spin up time so I can get in before the bar picks up any kind of speed.
But that is one of the cool things about what we do, there is no right answer or accepted way of doing it as the machines vary so much that its impossible to design for every occasion. You pick your poison and go for it!