Ah yeh Bruiser!
Sorry I don't know anything about your Robot other than the name.
We can't wait to go, just hoping we can keep the robot running for the whole weekend!
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Ah yeh Bruiser!
Sorry I don't know anything about your Robot other than the name.
We can't wait to go, just hoping we can keep the robot running for the whole weekend!
yeh Bruiser has only been to one event before so i need to get in some driving practis as well :mrgreen:
i'll be at gadget show live on the 14th but unfortunately i won't be fighting any feathers, hopefully i'll get a chance to check out both your bots :)
I would like to go but my robot's in pieces and the wheels have still not arrived.
So we have about a week to learn to drive it!
Have you got any photos of Bruiser?
BRUISER!!!!!!!!!!
[attachment=0:28bfrlah]Untitled.png[/attachment:28bfrlah]
another pic...
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A worthy adversary!
It should be a good fight :rofl:
Us two and Heatwave, the monster flipper!
:?
Don't worry its not the stupidly powerful flipper you'll be against (thats Whirlwind :wink: )Quote:
Originally Posted by PJ-27
Heatwave is my brothers robot and is the one with loads of lights all over it. still a full pressure flipper though :)
Maybe it'll knock some life into Bitza!
Currently got problems.....
Would wire of a much thinner gauge heavily limit the current?
Some of the wiring in the robot is what came on the 2nd hand controllers, and I kept the wires on the motors, which are quite thin.
Figured I'd check with the experts before re-wiring the whole robot the week before the event.....
I would strongly recomend that you change to thicker wires. on bruiser i had wires 2x as thick as the wires that come with the motors and this is what happend.
http://s1111.photobucket.com/albums/h46 ... od2023.jpg
in combat robots the thiner wires will not cope with the conditions and heat up untill they melt the plastic around it.
it shouldn't cause the problems you've described unless the wire has been burned out (would be obvious from the outside).
The wiring on the motors is usually not suitable for our application. The wiring on controllers however should be sized adequately (depending on the controller of course).
On the original drill motors we used I changed the wires, I didn't this time, I guess out of lazy-ness.
It's possible that a wire somewhere has started to burn out, I'll have a good check.
Good news! Turns out our Aluminium scoop is attracted to magnets..... so it must be steel meaning its stronger than we realised........ Every little helps!
Hehe nice one :)
Well after our first couple of events we plan on making a few changes. The first being we are changing the team name to Team Bitza to save confusion. The second being that Bitza is now out of action, it got a good beating from LH at the 02 (could have stopped when you got through the armour!) so we are now planning Bitza 2.0. Details to come soon......
Thanks to everyone for your interest in our bits-of-this-bits-of-that methodology, we plan to make it a theme in all the robots we build. And thanks to everyone that helped us out in Birmingham to make Bitza rank 15th!
For the mean time here is our Youtube channel;
http://www.youtube.com/user/TeamBitza
and Photobucket for images of Bitza;
http://s1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee4 ... %20Champs/
i just subscribed :D
Thats for beating LS4 :lol:Quote:
...it got a good beating from LH at the 02 (could have stopped when you got through the armour!)
Haha, maybe!
The plans are pretty much set for Bitza 2.0, although we won't be able to start building for a few weeks.
It'll be an invertible vertical spinner. Same Bitza design and same motto (bits of this and bits of that), but could probably do with some spinner advise!
For the spinning weapon we plan to use a heavy disk with wide teeth, mounted in the scoop.
Trying to figure out if our 15a Electronize's are going to be up to the job with our new (plans) for 22.2v Li-Po's and 24v drill motors.
What sort of wottage are drill motors? My thinking was around the 75w mark (for the bigger (jumbo) 24v motors.)
By my calculations that works out about 6a continuous draw? Seems very low....
Depends what kind of wheels you're running/amount of accelerations & decelerations as to average current. If you're just running two drills at under-rated voltage then they'd probably be up to the job though
you could probably sell the 15 amp ones on here for £50 and then spend another £30 on 2 30a ones if you decide you need more current
a 24v drill on 22v should be ok on them. I've run 12v drills on 24v through an electronize without issue before. Granted that was with 100mm blue wheels. If you're planning on running the big wheels in bitza, unless they're not grippy at all you might overdo it.
Of course, you could just do the external relay modification on the electronize and for the price of 4 30A car relays have two 30A controllers.
Is it really just the relays that are at a different rating? I may look into that.... Do you use the 15a ones in Boner?
Doubt I could sell them for anything more than what it would be worth for me to just keep them. If that makes sense.....
We are using big wheels again and we plan on removing the wheel slip issues, but they will be geared lower.
Guess I'll just give it a go and see what happens. Hopefully it'll be alright.
We need some sort of On/Off switch to control the disk in Bitza Mk2.
I liked Sam's idea of using a Pico Switch to run a high amperage solid state relay, since you get the radio control and can handle the level of current being drawn, but it's no very Bitza-esque and expensive in the end.
Can anyone think of any alternatives? I'm assuming car relays are a good bet, but controlling these by radio is where my thought path ends....
Cheers,
Just go for the radio controlled relay controlling a larger relay (you could use a 40A car relay for a few quid). Any other interface with radio will be more of a headache and less reliable.
The other way that jumps to mind would be to use a servo hitting a microswitch which powers the control side of a relay. I wouldn't advise this route as it's not a failsafe proof system.
servo and microswitch not recommended. Almost ripped my robot apart :cry:
if you buy a external failsafe or have a spektrum its fine
Good point about the failsafe side of things.....
I'll need to consider that.
on some txs and rxs you can program the failsafe position so you could make it so servo failsafed so that the microswitch isn't pressed.
I would still recommend the RC relay option. Not that much more expensive.
ALWAYS consider the failsafe and takes as many precautions as possible when dealing with spinning weapons.
I may try and hack a servo to create an RC relay.
What is it exactly that turns low power gate of the big relay on and off? Does it just listen for a current?
This is in keeping with the Bitza theme..
http://trebor69.tripod.com/speedcnt.html
you should be able to use the fets and heatsinks from any stripped down drills.
same thing with power transistors.
http://www.rc-airplane-advisor.com/elec ... oller.html
http://www.rc-airplane-advisor.com/elec ... hotos.html
DON'T TRY AND RUN THE CONTROLLER AS A SPEED CONTROL ..IT'LL GET TOASTY!...on and off should be fine...maybe.....
Good find!
Should I just use these to control a bigger relay then?
no you could use the mosfet to directly control a motor
should have said, you will be able to pick up the resistors and FETs off ebay for next to nothing