New FW database (new robots)

Hey Jamie,

I will get some build pics for you:)

I changed the name to Axeadent because I liked it more really.I might build another bot called Lumberjack one day.

Good luck with your exams mate.

Update on Asgard. Construction has started hopefully have it ready for September however I have a lot of non robot commitments before then, so it may be more like next year by the time its finished.

Ed are you taking Asgard to the tag team event if you finish in time?

I would think so Dan, too soon to say if it will be ready by any particular date.

If you do get there,do you want to team with me?

Two axe bots would be fun.

Yeah sure.

Ok Ed.

Should i have 6mm polycarb or HDPE?

What weighs more?

Personally I prefer the look of Polycarb on a robot compared to HDPE. I dont think there is much difference in weight.

Ok,I will go with polycarb then.

Have you got any pics of Asgard?

Not yet. Well thats not true I do just not going to release them just yet.

is it 3D yet? lol last time i looked it was just a base.. a nice base though lol

Done the bulkhead profiles and some detail on them, thats about it will get some more done at the weekend probs.

Updated stats for Axeadent:

Battery:2 x 9.9v A123 lithiums
Motors :2 x speed 900s
Chassis:Polycarb
Armour :6mm polycarb with 3mm Ti in places
Speedos:Scorpian XXL
Weapon :LP Rack and pinion axe with 1.6kg hardox head

Maybe a few other changes to come but nothing to big.

How thick is your polycarb chassis ?

are you using my hardox for the head Dan?

How big will the axe head be?

The base of the chassis will be 10mm,but it only supports the bulkheads which are 10mm polycarb.

And yeah it probably will be your hardox i use,and im not sure how big it will be as of yet.

Dan.



(Message edited by dan_boulton on August 04, 2008)

Question: 2x 9.9V in series or parallel?

Parallel Leo.

There is no reason to use both packs in 1 robot with that kind of drivetrain.

I would run them in series though, 9.9v is a little on the weak side for speed 900s if you want to push anything.

Not really, there is a reason we use the dual rate in the Hannibalitos.
13.2V is a bit much with our drivetrains, speed and acceleration is nuts on 100%.

But in the end it all comes to gearratio. And it becomes a trade-off.

Running the 900s at ~20V you will need some serious reduction to stop you from wheelspinning every time you want to take off. The torque is already immense at 13V with a 4.5:1 reduction.

crumple zone update the frame is finished more or less pics on the link below if some one could post the link which works i have no idea why it wont do it for me

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27316623http://www.flickr.com/photos/27316623@N06/

It does look good though.

(Message edited by dan_boulton on August 06, 2008)

Dont cut and paste the link directly into this typing area ...use the create a hyperlink pictogram .

copy and paste into the pop up box.

Thus

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27316623@N06http://www.flickr.com/photos/27316623@N06

The typing recognition software doesnt like the @ sign it expects an email or something.

(Message edited by woody on August 06, 2008)

hi guys

thinking of making a new feather, wombat will need to be improved later as it died in a practice battle against 2 big rc cars ( thanks to my bad soldering and cut-price Ebay lipos )

it will be called Fodder (wanted to use cannon fodder but its one of pete cs antweights)as im 99% sure it will be ripped apart in its 1st fight lol!

it will use a pair of motors from Tecnobots.com ( i will post the link later) the speedo comes with the motors

no weapon at all! not even brute force lol, the motors go at 4mph or somthing lol, the armor will be 2mm or 4mm polycarb( whatever i can get in my target weight ) .

i know you will be shouting at your screen he should spend a bit more time and money and get ... motors and thicker armor but im just making this as a fun bot, and to give the roboteres/audiance a bit of a laugh, lol!

looking to spend about £150-£200 on it, i have the r.x and t.x, i want it to weigh about 1.5-2kg to get it to go as fast as possible, i know its a bit light but...well my tactics are keep attacking whatever the odds or get compleatly destroyed lol!

jack

these are the motors

http://www.technobots.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Robot_Electronics_Drive_Systems_1 69.htmlhttp://www.technobots.co.uk/acatalog...onics_Drive_Sy stems_169.html

i am using a 12v lipo

jack

It is not a drive setup for feathers really. Youd be better of with some standard drills and cheap ESCs (probably cheaper as well). The controller that is in this setup is not for RC but interfaces with logic boards. Its a nice setup for sumobots or linefollowers and the like of that, not combat.

ok thanks

i have decided after some of the comments i got on the rw101 forum that i will go for another drill powered feather

does anyone know of a site or mod that tells me how to hack a dril ( i bought my first ones pre-mod )

http://www.wa4dsy.net/robot/drill-motor-hackhttp://www.wa4dsy.net/robot/drill-motor-hack

Take some time and browse the rest of his site.

EDIT:- Id suggest the removal of the chuck BEFORE taking the drill apart.

http://www.robowars.org/wikka/DrillHacking101http://www.robowars.org/wikka/DrillHacking101

(Message edited by woody on August 13, 2008)

Jack, Just before you go buying all these lipos i would check the FRA rules. Firstly you need a 2mm thick metal base for them, along with the other safety features.
But more importantly, your asking for disaster using lipos with 2mm polycarb armour. Although to run the arena must be capable of containing the fire, some things are asking for trouble and so some event organisers may not allow it to fight if theres a very good chance it could go up in flames.
Not to put you off, or put you down, just something to consider.

yeah grant,i have been told, thats why i have now decided to choose a different battery

i have also decided to merge the wombat and fodder projects to make Da Bomb a 2wd flipper, the flipper is powered by a motor at 12v

also what do people think about gold motors?,are they good? are they better than drill motors? and how reliable are they?

the armor is now 4.5mm mild steel with a outer skin of 2mm polycarb

jack

gold motors are good but heavy i think speed 900s are better and i doint think you need the poly c with 4.5mm mild steel juts wasting money and weight, also how are you planning to make the armour?

on another note i have put some pics on line of crumple zone the main bits of the armour

to have a look follow woodys link i cant get it to work

alex

hi alex

i have done a bit more research and found some better motors for less money

i belive i bought the armor of you,lol.it was on ebay

jack

Nearly finished rebuild of Dragonstrike just got to add 1.5kg of Ti on the sides.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=lV9oBPDI1sohttp://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=lV9oBPDI1so

A fiver for that motor - bargain!
Might visit my local scrappy when Im back home

Looking good as always Tony :)

Just out of interest, are you still running the HTIs in Kishar? Or have you changed them too?
Im just curious to see how they perform in other robots/different setups as they were a disappointment in Drumroll

No took the HTIs out they were still running and worked ok but i got 4 motors from scrapyard at a fiver each so put 1 in Kishar

Dont know if I already posted this, but what the heck:

Name: Accident
Status: Building (or somewhat)
Weight: Propably ~12kg
Drive: 2x 12V drill motors
Battery: 14,4V NIMH 4500mAh
Chassi: 10mm Lexan
Armour: 6-12mm HDPE
Weapon: Hardox disc spinner
Picture: http://tinyurl.com/6ncjd5http://tinyurl.com/6ncjd5

Things to do:
1. Add motor and mount for weapon power.
2. Get some free time
3. Build it, duh!

Yey more vertical spinners. Just what I like to see :proud:

Rebuild of Kishar finished just got to paint it.

New weapon motor fited car fan motor run at 24v.
3mm ti armour fitted above 10 mm Polypro.
pic on profile.
Weight 13.3kg